View entire thread: OK, you asked for it
Posted by Kate Dicey on Sun Jun 25, 2006 12:50 AM Post subject: Re: OK, you asked for it
teleflora wrote: [quote:d1efa29b1d]Here is a list of what I found. Ahem. 3 books from Liberty Homestead
www.libertyhomestead.com and 4 packets of their hand-dyed sueded cotton. 4 colors in each packet 1/2 yard of each. 3
Attic Heirlooms stitchery pattern kits. www.attic-heirlooms.com 1 Baby Bib pattern from Little Country Quilts plus 3 of
the fabric kits to go with it from Vogies. www.vogies.com The pattern for those Quilt as you Sew table runners from
Out of the Blue. www.outofthebluequilts.com plus 2 fabric kits to make the runners. (They make a really neat purse
pattern that is made the same way, but I didn't see it till I was paying and the line was long. 1/2 yard of most and
fat 1/4's of the rest of the Peppermint and Holly Berries fabric. Plus the buttons AND some of the towels. A really
cool little pattern for something called a Fabric Pot. It's a Just Jennifer pattern, www.justjennifer.com but this
pattern is not listed on the website yet. It's just this little fabric cup that you can take to class and put threads
and stuff in it. It's made with 2 strips of sandwiched fabric (with fleece) that you sew together so it has enough
body to sit up, yet you can squish it in anywhere. It came with the fabric and the fleece. Pretty cool. The Magic of
Crazy Quilting. GREAT book! PLUS I bought beads and buttons and lace and silk and satin and wool scraps for crazy
quilting. 4 Stitchery patterns from Thimble Creek Creations. www.thimblecreekcreations.com 3 darling little sacks with
civil war fat 1/4's for Dear Jane (BTW, there was a Dear Jane and a Dear Hannah quilt hanging at the show. They were
beautiful. There was a woodworking guy there and besides the quilt racks and little quilt coffins that he makes, he had
these turned handle tools. I bought a beautiful seam ripper made out of curly maple, and a little wheelie thing that
flattens seams! The roller is about 1/2" wide and you just roller it along the seam and you don't have to press
it! I have a little wooden stick thing that I bought for that, but it always pulled the material out of whack so I quit
using it. This works really slick. I forgot to find out what kind of wood the handle was made of. A cute chenille
jacket, a baby quilt kit with minkie, flannel and cotton fabrics, OH! they had these handmade baskets from Ghana that
were gorgeous. I got a big one and a little one. They also had some ethnic fabric that was so pretty, but I couldn't
think of a use. Sorry, Susan, I wish I'd a known. I'm telling ya, I made 3 trips to the bag check area. If I saw 2
things I liked and couldn't decide, I bought both of them. This is in addition to the "help" I gave my
friends in their purchases. I'm tired. Cindy Oh, it all sounds lovely! All I bought in the fabric line today was
10[/quote:d1efa29b1d] metres of 108" wide poly cotton curtain lining for £1.99 a metre to make toiles out of! --
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
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View entire thread: OK, you asked for it
Posted by Chipper on Sun Jun 25, 2006 12:44 AM Post subject: Re: OK, you asked for it
Whelp, I'm impressed! And links too!!! I'm glad I wore my surfing sneakers so I could keep up! :D I hope you have
your treasures pirate proofed! chipper "teleflora" <teleflora@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Sugng.143042$k%3.119865@dukeread12... [quote:4b45bfe9ff]Here is a list of what I found. Ahem. 3 books from
Liberty Homestead www.libertyhomestead.com and 4 packets of their hand-dyed sueded cotton. 4 colors in each packet 1/2
yard of each. 3 Attic Heirlooms stitchery pattern kits. www.attic-heirlooms.com 1 Baby Bib pattern from Little Country
Quilts plus 3 of the fabric kits to go with it from Vogies. www.vogies.com The pattern for those Quilt as you Sew
table runners from Out of the Blue. www.outofthebluequilts.com plus 2 fabric kits to make the runners. (They make a
really neat purse pattern that is made the same way, but I didn't see it till I was paying and the line was long. 1/2
yard of most and fat 1/4's of the rest of the Peppermint and Holly Berries fabric. Plus the buttons AND some of the
towels. A really cool little pattern for something called a Fabric Pot. It's a Just Jennifer pattern,
www.justjennifer.com but this pattern is not listed on the website yet. It's just this little fabric cup that you can
take to class and put threads and stuff in it. It's made with 2 strips of sandwiched fabric (with fleece) that you sew
together so it has enough body to sit up, yet you can squish it in anywhere. It came with the fabric and the fleece.
Pretty cool. The Magic of Crazy Quilting. GREAT book! PLUS I bought beads and buttons and lace and silk and satin and
wool scraps for crazy quilting. 4 Stitchery patterns from Thimble Creek Creations. www.thimblecreekcreations.com 3
darling little sacks with civil war fat 1/4's for Dear Jane (BTW, there was a Dear Jane and a Dear Hannah quilt hanging
at the show. They were beautiful. There was a woodworking guy there and besides the quilt racks and little quilt
coffins that he makes, he had these turned handle tools. I bought a beautiful seam ripper made out of curly maple, and
a little wheelie thing that flattens seams! The roller is about 1/2" wide and you just roller it along the seam
and you don't have to press it! I have a little wooden stick thing that I bought for that, but it always pulled the
material out of whack so I quit using it. This works really slick. I forgot to find out what kind of wood the handle
was made of. A cute chenille jacket, a baby quilt kit with minkie, flannel and cotton fabrics, OH! they had these
handmade baskets from Ghana that were gorgeous. I got a big one and a little one. They also had some ethnic fabric that
was so pretty, but I couldn't think of a use. Sorry, Susan, I wish I'd a known. I'm telling ya, I made 3 trips to the
bag check area. If I saw 2 things I liked and couldn't decide, I bought both of them. This is in addition to the
"help" I gave my friends in their purchases. I'm tired. Cindy -- ~~Life is tough. It's tougher if you're
stupid~~ [/quote:4b45bfe9ff]
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View entire thread: OK, you asked for it
Posted by Jessamy on Sat Jun 24, 2006 8:40 PM Post subject: Re: OK, you asked for it
sounds like you "shopped"for everyone on the NG ;-) you are *so* kind to think of us too! -- Jessamy In The
Netherlands Take out: so much quilting to reply. Time to accept, time to grow, time to take things slow
www.geocities.com/jess_ayad http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jessamy_thompson/my_photos
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Here is a list of what I found. Ahem. 3 books from Liberty Homestead
www.libertyhomestead.com and 4 packets of their hand-dyed sueded cotton. 4 colors in each packet 1/2 yard of each. 3
Attic Heirlooms stitchery pattern kits. www.attic-heirlooms.com 1 Baby Bib pattern from Little Country Quilts plus 3 of
the fabric kits to go with it from Vogies. www.vogies.com The pattern for those Quilt as you Sew table runners from
Out of the Blue. www.outofthebluequilts.com plus 2 fabric kits to make the runners. (They make a really neat purse
pattern that is made the same way, but I didn't see it till I was paying and the line was long. 1/2 yard of most and
fat 1/4's of the rest of the Peppermint and Holly Berries fabric. Plus the buttons AND some of the towels. A really
cool little pattern for something called a Fabric Pot. It's a Just Jennifer pattern, www.justjennifer.com but this
pattern is not listed on the website yet. It's just this little fabric cup that you can take to class and put threads
and stuff in it. It's made with 2 strips of sandwiched fabric (with fleece) that you sew together so it has enough
body to sit up, yet you can squish it in anywhere. It came with the fabric and the fleece. Pretty cool. The Magic of
Crazy Quilting. GREAT book! PLUS I bought beads and buttons and lace and silk and satin and wool scraps for crazy
quilting. 4 Stitchery patterns from Thimble Creek Creations. www.thimblecreekcreations.com 3 darling little sacks with
civil war fat 1/4's for Dear Jane (BTW, there was a Dear Jane and a Dear Hannah quilt hanging at the show. They were
beautiful. There was a woodworking guy there and besides the quilt racks and little quilt coffins that he makes, he had
these turned handle tools. I bought a beautiful seam ripper made out of curly maple, and a little wheelie thing that
flattens seams! The roller is about 1/2" wide and you just roller it along the seam and you don't have to press
it! I have a little wooden stick thing that I bought for that, but it always pulled the material out of whack so I quit
using it. This works really slick. I forgot to find out what kind of wood the handle was made of. A cute chenille
jacket, a baby quilt kit with minkie, flannel and cotton fabrics, OH! they had these handmade baskets from Ghana that
were gorgeous. I got a big one and a little one. They also had some ethnic fabric that was so pretty, but I couldn't
think of a use. Sorry, Susan, I wish I'd a known. I'm telling ya, I made 3 trips to the bag check area. If I saw 2
things I liked and couldn't decide, I bought both of them. This is in addition to the "help" I gave my
friends in their purchases. I'm tired. Cindy -- ~~Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid~~
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View entire thread: OK, you asked for it
Posted by teleflora on Sat Jun 24, 2006 8:34 PM Post subject: OK, you asked for it
Here is a list of what I found. Ahem. 3 books from Liberty Homestead www.libertyhomestead.com and 4 packets of their
hand-dyed sueded cotton. 4 colors in each packet 1/2 yard of each. 3 Attic Heirlooms stitchery pattern kits. www.attic-
heirlooms.com 1 Baby Bib pattern from Little Country Quilts plus 3 of the fabric kits to go with it from Vogies.
www.vogies.com The pattern for those Quilt as you Sew table runners from Out of the Blue. www.outofthebluequilts.com
plus 2 fabric kits to make the runners. (They make a really neat purse pattern that is made the same way, but I didn't
see it till I was paying and the line was long. 1/2 yard of most and fat 1/4's of the rest of the Peppermint and Holly
Berries fabric. Plus the buttons AND some of the towels. A really cool little pattern for something called a Fabric
Pot. It's a Just Jennifer pattern, www.justjennifer.com but this pattern is not listed on the website yet. It's
just this little fabric cup that you can take to class and put threads and stuff in it. It's made with 2 strips of
sandwiched fabric (with fleece) that you sew together so it has enough body to sit up, yet you can squish it in
anywhere. It came with the fabric and the fleece. Pretty cool. The Magic of Crazy Quilting. GREAT book! PLUS I
bought beads and buttons and lace and silk and satin and wool scraps for crazy quilting. 4 Stitchery patterns from
Thimble Creek Creations. www.thimblecreekcreations.com 3 darling little sacks with civil war fat 1/4's for Dear Jane
(BTW, there was a Dear Jane and a Dear Hannah quilt hanging at the show. They were beautiful. There was a
woodworking guy there and besides the quilt racks and little quilt coffins that he makes, he had these turned handle
tools. I bought a beautiful seam ripper made out of curly maple, and a little wheelie thing that flattens seams! The
roller is about 1/2" wide and you just roller it along the seam and you don't have to press it! I have a little
wooden stick thing that I bought for that, but it always pulled the material out of whack so I quit using it. This
works really slick. I forgot to find out what kind of wood the handle was made of. A cute chenille jacket, a baby
quilt kit with minkie, flannel and cotton fabrics, OH! they had these handmade baskets from Ghana that were gorgeous.
I got a big one and a little one. They also had some ethnic fabric that was so pretty, but I couldn't think of a use.
Sorry, Susan, I wish I'd a known. I'm telling ya, I made 3 trips to the bag check area. If I saw 2 things I liked and
couldn't decide, I bought both of them. This is in addition to the "help" I gave my friends in their
purchases. I'm tired. Cindy -- ~~Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid~~
back to top
View entire thread: Not OT: good day
Posted by ellice on Sat Nov 04, 2006 4:34 PM Post subject: Re: Not OT: good day
On 11/3/06 6:05 PM, "MargW" <mwhittle@sympatico.ca> wrote: [quote:e1f4a6d541]Nadia Abbasi wrote: Oh -
that one's just down the street from me - my subdivision's on Louetta, too. I was hoping you'd found a new one! They
do have a super selection but I find that they're a bit mean sometimes as I'm considerably younger than the owner and so
I get to hear about it quite a bit. The other day, I had brought my project in to get a Kreinik substitute for Rainbow
something or other....and the other ladies commented on how nice the back of my work was but she had to jump in about
how if I were truly talented, all the lines on the back would be vertical! It just felt so mean and condescending to
me. So I try to avoid going there if I can get my stuff by other means - I never find that age is a factor in ability.
But that shouldn't stop anyone else from going there - they do have a super selection and are very willing to order just
about anything for you. I know there's one in Richmond near Sugar Land.....I can't remember what it's called but I've
heard superb things about them and about their customer service! Here it is my last day at work before I go on
maternity leave and I ought to be saving my money for diapers but instead I'm getting excited about a new LNS!! (It's a
good thing DH doesn't read this newsgroup!!) Nadia Jere Williams wrote: I think it's called 3 Stitches -- I know
it's on Louetta. Are there any other good ones in the area? We come down there every spring for a meeting for my dh,
and I'm always looking for things to do to fill my time for those 3 days. -- Jere "Nadia Abbasi"
<nn_abbasi@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:1162569822.645354.189960@h54g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... I live in
Houston (well, in Spring actually but close enough) - which shop are you referring to? Nadia Jere Williams wrote:
There's a wonderful little shop like that in the Houston, TX, area -- when I first go in there, I always wondered why I
made the effort, and yet I usually buy as much if not more than I do at my local LNS when I'm at home. - Jere
"Pat P" <eaxstitchNOSPAM@ntlworld.com> wrote in message news:2Uv2h.23298$j4.22595@newsfe1-
win.ntli.net... "off kilter quilter" <spamfree@somewherequiet.net> wrote in message news:
_92dnca98cm45NfYnZ2dnUVZ_o-dnZ2d@adelphia.com... Well, I decided to take a break from sewing garden flags for the PTA
and took a morning for myself. I had noticed a little shop called "Cross Stitch Station" but it was closed
every time I went by it. Today (after the runs to the dump and post office) I decided I would make a visit.
Ooooooohhhhhhhhh!!! It might be a tiny little shop, but it is PACKED with gorgeous things!!! I bought a kit to send to
my secret sister in Australia as well as a chart to send her (she and I both quilt as well as do cross-stitch, so the
chart is CS of patchwork quilts!), found a leaflet of TWs that will keep me in the good graces of my BIL and his wife
(mythical creatures), and had a good time just drolling over everything! Then, DD had a meltdown. Ah well, she did
fairly well for the time it took to find those few things, but when I told her she couldn't climb the framed pieces, or
take them down, she threw herself ont he floor. I apologized to the owner and promised to be back - without my 3yo
terror. WooHoo!! Found a new place to spend all my money! Larisa, happily planning out the next few years of projects
(to be squeezed in amongst the quilts, clothes, house remodeling, etc.) LOL! That reminds me of an advert we have on
TV - a mother takes her 3 yearold into the Supermarket and SHE throws herself on the floor, kicking and screaming. It`s
the look of horror on the kiddywinkie`s face that cracks me up. I`m SURE no-one warned him that this grownup was going
to do that! Some of these tiny cross stitch places are the best, aren`t they? We have one near here which is bursting
at the seams. You always find loads of stuff you haven`t spotted before. Pat If she ever makes a comment like
that again, you can says that even the designers rarely have all staight lines on the back, and that happens only when
you stitch 'out and back'.(It was Charland Garvin that made that comment one time when I was in a class of hers). As
well, point her to Darlene O'Steen's "The Proper Stitch for other ways of doing crosses. Some people consider that
having all straight lines on the back is very, very, incorrect since they use 'english' (cross every stich as you go),
and their backs would not have straight lines. Besides, if you are stitching with overdyes, you won't have straight
lines. She sounds like a proper cow. MargW Good advice, and beyond - what really matters is how the piece looks
from[/quote:e1f4a6d541] the front when finished. When I was taking the judges certification training classes we all
discussed that no one but the stitcher and framer/finisher ever see the back. What's important is no bumps, lumps, or
thread shadows carrying thru to the front (even when we look at a piece from the side - as in across the plain of the
stitching it should be level -except for stitches that are supposed to be built up, or beads, etc). Of course, being
me, I'd ask her what spoiled her day and leave while pointing out there are plenty of other places that value customers
and are happier to take your money. ellice
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View entire thread: stitching on paper
Posted by Shirley Shone on Tue Oct 31, 2006 8:20 AM Post subject: Re: stitching on paper
Most craft shops sell blank greeting cards. You need the ones that have 3 panels called a double fold over here. The
beaded ones I did I just used a strong patterned paper, then mounted it to the front of a single fold card using double
sided tape. If I want a different size card I make one from A3 or A4 plain of coloured card. No special type of card
is needed. Shirley In message <to5dk2l9mr9hspofhr0h2b4ore52e0qif3@4ax.com>, Linda D.
<muffymom56@yahoo.com> writes [quote:0a29595dff]They look great Shirley!!! Still haven't started one, but promise
I will... Where do you get your card stock? Is there any special type that I should purchase? thanks...Linda On Fri,
27 Oct 2006 21:53:54 +0100, Shirley Shone nospam@allcrafts.area51.demon.co.uk> wrote: I perforate my own card with
the design that I wish to stitch. Basically only two stitches are used, back stitch and straight stitch. It is the
placement of the stitches that give the design it appeal. I have just uploaded 4 cards that I have done using threads
and beads. None of them are my own designs but copied from books or ones I have purchased. You can see them under the
heading of Other Crafts on my website. http://www.allcrafts.demon.co.uk Shirley [/quote:0a29595dff] -- Shirley Shone
shirley@allcrafts.demon.co.uk http://www.allcrafts.demon.co.uk
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View entire thread: stitching on paper
Posted by Shirley Shone on Fri Oct 27, 2006 11:02 PM Post subject: Re: stitching on paper
I use Madeira Super twist metallic . The rayon was a random dyed thread that I got from a show in London. I like the
shiny effect of threads but have used DMC floss at times. The fine Krenik threads work well. When I use beads alone I
use Nymo beading thread to attach them. Shirley In message
<1161985230.783848.176320@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, astitcher@gmail.com writes [quote:bcb5d60bfb]Shirley,
Your designs are lovely. I can see why you punch your own cards. You might like to try the Tokens and Trifles cards
since they come in a variety of shapes. They have one packet that can be used to make a small basket. It is very nice.
The paper is of very high quality and is acid free. I enjoyed seeing your backyard and the visitor. We have a couple
of squirrels in our backyard. These are wire walkers and love to tease one of our dogs. I really like the way you use
beads with the punched cards. What thread are you using for your stitching on the cards? Alice On Oct 27, 2:53 pm,
Shirley Shone <nos...@allcrafts.area51.demon.co.uk wrote: I perforate my own card with the design that I wish to
stitch. Basically only two stitches are used, back stitch and straight stitch. It is the placement of the stitches that
give the design it appeal. I have just uploaded 4 cards that I have done using threads and beads. None of them are my
own designs but copied from books or ones I have purchased. You can see them under the heading of Other Crafts on my
website. http://www.allcrafts.demon.co.uk Shirley In message
<1161968430.785591.293...@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>, astitc...@gmail.com writes Shirley, What stitches
are you using on the perferated paper? I have only seen cross-stitch and tent stitch used on the paper. Even the
Victorian embroidery on paper seems to be cross-stitch only. I would be interested in seeing what you are doing with
the paper. Alice On Oct 27, 12:15 am, Shirley Shone nos...@allcrafts.area51.demon.co.uk> wrote: In message
<1161928564.836995.97...@k70g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, astitc...@gmail.com writes On Oct 26, 7:43 pm, "Jere
Williams" <Duk...@sport.rr.com> wrote: I don't know that this is exactly the same sort of stitching as been
described previously, but there is a website: www.tokensandtrifles.comthat has perforated paper for stitching on for
sale. It has very pretty borders, many of which can also be stitched. There was an ad for them, plus a chart, in one
of the current stitching magazines. I'll go back and in a bit and see which one. They look very pretty. -- Jere I
have worked on some the the Tokens and Trifles paper. It is wonderful to work on and I have never enjoyed embroidery on
paper. There is a really cute design for one of the Tokens and Trifles papers that you can get
fromwww.craftcenterstitchery.com. It is a scissor case and scissor fob. The case is made from the paper and the fob is
on linen. Really cute. The design in now in my stash. Also, on the Tokens and Trifles site you can download quite a
few free designs. Really a great site. AliceThe cards are really pretty but I think they are mainly for cross stitch.
I had a look at the site in Wales UK who appear to be the only stockist in UK. I thought that 7.25 GBP was expensive for
one card. That is about 14 dollars. However it has given me an idea since I have to prick the holes out for the
stitching cards I do. I can buy a circle punch that has a decorative edge and make my own fancy circle cards to stitch.
Also I can use the pricking stencils to make fancy borders. Thanks for giving me a step up for the idea. Shirley --
Shirley Shone shir...@allcrafts.demon.co.ukhttp://www.allcrafts.demon.co.uk-- Shirley Shone
shir...@allcrafts.demon.co.ukhttp://www.allcrafts.demon.co.uk [/quote:bcb5d60bfb] -- Shirley Shone
shirley@allcrafts.demon.co.uk http://www.allcrafts.demon.co.uk
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View entire thread: stitching on paper
Posted by Anonymous on Fri Oct 27, 2006 10:40 PM Post subject: Re: stitching on paper
Shirley, Your designs are lovely. I can see why you punch your own cards. You might like to try the Tokens and Trifles
cards since they come in a variety of shapes. They have one packet that can be used to make a small basket. It is very
nice. The paper is of very high quality and is acid free. I enjoyed seeing your backyard and the visitor. We have a
couple of squirrels in our backyard. These are wire walkers and love to tease one of our dogs. I really like the way
you use beads with the punched cards. What thread are you using for your stitching on the cards? Alice On Oct 27,
2:53 pm, Shirley Shone <nos...@allcrafts.area51.demon.co.uk> wrote: [quote:8f1c46d0ac]I perforate my own card with
the design that I wish to stitch. Basically only two stitches are used, back stitch and straight stitch. It is the
placement of the stitches that give the design it appeal. I have just uploaded 4 cards that I have done using threads
and beads. None of them are my own designs but copied from books or ones I have purchased. You can see them under the
heading of Other Crafts on my website. http://www.allcrafts.demon.co.uk Shirley In message
<1161968430.785591.293...@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>, astitc...@gmail.com writes Shirley, What stitches
are you using on the perferated paper? I have only seen cross-stitch and tent stitch used on the paper. Even the
Victorian embroidery on paper seems to be cross-stitch only. I would be interested in seeing what you are doing with
the paper. Alice On Oct 27, 12:15 am, Shirley Shone nos...@allcrafts.area51.demon.co.uk> wrote: In message
<1161928564.836995.97...@k70g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, astitc...@gmail.com writes On Oct 26, 7:43 pm, "Jere
Williams" <Duk...@sport.rr.com> wrote: I don't know that this is exactly the same sort of stitching as has
been described previously, but there is a website: www.tokensandtrifles.comthat has perforated paper for stitching on
for sale. It has very pretty borders, many of which can also be stitched. There was an ad for them, plus a chart, in
one of the current stitching magazines. I'll go back and look in a bit and see which one. They look very pretty. --
Jere I have worked on some the the Tokens and Trifles paper. It is wonderful to work on and I have never enjoyed
embroidery on paper. There is a really cute design for one of the Tokens and Trifles papers that you can get
fromwww.craftcenterstitchery.com. It is a scissor case and scissor fob. The case is made from the paper and the fob is
on linen. Really cute. The design in now in my stash. Also, on the Tokens and Trifles site you can download quite a
few free designs. Really a great site. AliceThe cards are really pretty but I think they are mainly for cross stitch.
I had a look at the site in Wales UK who appear to be the only stockist in UK. I thought that 7.25 GBP was expensive for
one card. That is about 14 dollars. However it has given me an idea since I have to prick the holes out for the
stitching cards I do. I can buy a circle punch that has a decorative edge and make my own fancy circle cards to stitch.
Also I can use the pricking stencils to make fancy borders. Thanks for giving me a step up for the idea. Shirley --
Shirley Shone shir...@allcrafts.demon.co.ukhttp://www.allcrafts.demon.co.uk-- Shirley Shone
shir...@allcrafts.demon.co.ukhttp://www.allcrafts.demon.co.uk[/quote:8f1c46d0ac]
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View entire thread: stitching on paper
Posted by Shirley Shone on Fri Oct 27, 2006 9:53 PM Post subject: Re: stitching on paper
I perforate my own card with the design that I wish to stitch. Basically only two stitches are used, back stitch and
straight stitch. It is the placement of the stitches that give the design it appeal. I have just uploaded 4 cards that
I have done using threads and beads. None of them are my own designs but copied from books or ones I have purchased.
You can see them under the heading of Other Crafts on my website. http://www.allcrafts.demon.co.uk Shirley In
message <1161968430.785591.293250@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>, astitcher@gmail.com writes [quote:1f84af2868]
Shirley, What stitches are you using on the perferated paper? I have only seen cross-stitch and tent stitch used on
the paper. Even the Victorian embroidery on paper seems to be cross-stitch only. I would be interested in seeing what
you are doing with the paper. Alice On Oct 27, 12:15 am, Shirley Shone nos...@allcrafts.area51.demon.co.uk> wrote:
In message <1161928564.836995.97...@k70g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, astitc...@gmail.com writes On Oct 26, 7:43
pm, "Jere Williams" <Duk...@sport.rr.com> wrote: I don't know that this is exactly the same sort of
stitching as has been described previously, but there is a website: www.tokensandtrifles.comthat has perforated paper
for stitching on for sale. It has very pretty borders, many of which can also be stitched. There was an ad for them,
plus a chart, in one of the current stitching magazines. I'll go back and look in a bit and see which one. They look
very pretty. -- Jere I have worked on some the the Tokens and Trifles paper. It is wonderful to work on and I have
never enjoyed embroidery on paper. There is a really cute design for one of the Tokens and Trifles papers that you can
get fromwww.craftcenterstitchery.com. It is a scissor case and scissor fob. The case is made from the paper and the
fob is on linen. Really cute. The design in now in my stash. Also, on the Tokens and Trifles site you can download
quite a few free designs. Really a great site. AliceThe cards are really pretty but I think they are mainly for cross
stitch. I had a look at the site in Wales UK who appear to be the only stockist in UK. I thought that 7.25 GBP was
expensive for one card. That is about 14 dollars. However it has given me an idea since I have to prick the holes out
for the stitching cards I do. I can buy a circle punch that has a decorative edge and make my own fancy circle cards to
stitch. Also I can use the pricking stencils to make fancy borders. Thanks for giving me a step up for the idea. Shirley
-- Shirley Shone shir...@allcrafts.demon.co.ukhttp://www.allcrafts.demon.co.uk [/quote:1f84af2868] -- Shirley Shone
shirley@allcrafts.demon.co.uk http://www.allcrafts.demon.co.uk
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View entire thread: So, what is everyone doing today?
Posted by Cheryl Isaak on Mon Aug 28, 2006 3:03 PM Post subject: Re: So, what is everyone doing today?
On 8/27/06 6:27 PM, in article 9%oIg.16800$kO3.13226@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com, "Karen E."
<fishnstitch@sbcglobal.net> wrote: [quote:22fc380c6f] Karen C - California wrote: I put a load of laundry in,
and now I'm going to settle in with some stitching. I have about 2000-2500 stitches left on a birthday gift. If I make
a point of working on it daily, it'll be done in time. I'm drying out and catching up on some sleep. Camped with DS's
Boy Scout troop this weekend and it rained both nights, torrentially. The first night, my tent leaked. We're talking
sieve-style leakage here. Rained straight through the top, seeped in at the sides, just everywhere. I tried sleeping
under my rain poncho for a while but then I got too sweaty so I was just a different kind of wet. Slept a few hours in
my car that night. Fortunately, it was dry during the day Saturday so I got my gear dried out and threw a tarp over my
rain fly. When it poured last night there was some seepage around the edges again, but the middle of the tent stayed dry
so I could sleep better. When we got home today I got cleaned up, spread out the wet stuff to dry, and _slept_. I'm
"fixing" us barbecue for dinner from our favorite restaurant to reward me for surviving the weekend. I did
knit at the campout. A couple dads gave me some flack for it ("There's no knitting in Boy Scouts!", Tom Hanks-
style) but a couple of the boys inquired about what I was doing. I'm working on a very cute dress for our two-year-old
niece. Karen E. [/quote:22fc380c6f] I did bring a project to camp with my GS - I spent about 10 seconds on it.
Otherwise, I was doing gimp or beads or...... Cheryl
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View entire thread: Ping Linda W
Posted by Cheryl Isaak on Fri Aug 25, 2006 2:08 PM Post subject: Re: Ping Linda W
On 8/25/06 12:27 AM, in article 4l7cfpFjta1U1@individual.net, "Karen C - California" <KMC528@aol.com>
wrote: [quote:747d95cd1e]Cheryl Isaak wrote: Did get most of more ladybug done, but it still won't make DD's birthday!
Time to eliminate such non-essentials as sleep, eating, etc. and focus all your energies on your #1 priority, getting
done in time. However, never fear, the dear child will be receiving something in time for her birthday. Auntie Karen
will see to it. [/quote:747d95cd1e] If you can keep a secret - she's getting the Only Hearts Club Doll 'furniture' she
wants and maybe another of the dolls or a few more pets. And some "horse-y" stuff and ..... And - I have
PaperDoll Bear done except for a few beads and that will be a complete surprise... So it won't be an empty day :)
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View entire thread: Some of my scrapbooking work
Posted by jonesy on Sun Oct 29, 2006 11:46 PM Post subject: Re: Some of my scrapbooking work
Hi Klara, No I didn't thread them onto wire.. though that would make it a lot easier next time! I just used glue. I
stuck them each down with the "hole" vertical. I'm a bit of a perfectionist though so I felt it was worth it.
lol Yes, beads went everywhere, and my little brother kept stealing them and running away too! Laura Klara wrote:
[quote:c8ca469f62]Hello Laura, I also like the beaded flower. I have lots and lots of little seed beads so it seems
like a good use of them. Do I understand correctly that you have not used wire to thread the beads on and just stuck
them down with glue? That must have been very time consuming - I would probably get the beads all over the place. I
love the photo of all the shells in your Noumea layout, as well as the Art of Laughter layout. Klara[/quote:c8ca469f62]
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View entire thread: Question: Does anyone know how to make shaker boxes?
Posted by Melissa in Seattle on Sat Oct 28, 2006 3:09 AM Post subject: Re: Question: Does anyone know how to make shaker boxes?
Hi Kate, I've only done it once, many times over for a recipe swap (Azzy's Wakey Wakey Eggs n Bakey Recipe Swap) ...
and I loved it and should do more shaker boxes because it adds so much! I made a fried egg. I used foam for the egg
because I liked the texture. First I created a pattern on cardboard from an old box and cut that out and laid it on my
material (the foam). The I drew the outline of my template onto the foam. I did it twice for one egg, a bottom portion
and a top portion. On my egg I had it worked out that the egg yolk would contain the beads so on the top section of
"egg white" I had to cut out an additional circle which would form the yolk area. (the bottom egg white needed
to be closed in order to create a bottom where the beads would roll across so it did not receive the extra cut-out.
Now, because egg yolks are a different color (obviously) than egg white I used the same circle template that I used to
create the yolk in the top egg white to cut out a yellow piece of paper for the background of the shakerbox area. I
didn't have foam strips but rather foam squares that I used to life the top egg white and bottom egg white to create the
lift needed to insert the beads. I think foam strips would work better because you want to create as much of a wall as
possible to keep your beads in and the smaller your beads (fortunately mine were big) the less of a gap in the walls are
needed because you don't want those little beads to escape or your shakerbox will eventually be empty! So I had to use
the foam around the edge of where my beads were going to be in order to contain the beads. Then I also needed to use the
foam around the inside wall of my design so the entire shakerbox was of the same thickness. (This'll make sense once you
get to that stage). To create the viewing window for the shakerbox bead area I used the thick non-acidic plastic that
is sometimes used with stickers and other scrapbooking essentials (ie envelopes from creative memories stickers). I
always keep those because they are photo safe and can be cut for just this purpose. (a tip I'd read here on the ng a
long time ago.) Then I just attached it. No, it wasn't perfect but then again it was my first time. Here's a link to
see how it turned out: http://community.webshots.com/album/555154177zYEnFf Good luck! Melissa in Seattle
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View entire thread: Question: Does anyone know how to make shaker boxes?
Posted by OKC Dave on Fri Oct 27, 2006 1:25 AM Post subject: Re: Question: Does anyone know how to make shaker boxes?
I have drawn my own pattern and used them. For example I drew a watering can and hollowed ot the middle of it. After I
was satisfied with my pattern I made it on heavy cs. Then I took a piece of clear saran wrap and placed on the bottom of
the cs. Then I took that sticky foam in strips and put all along the outer edge on the bottom of the plastic wrap. Does
that make sense so far? then I had another solid can for the bottom which was attached with the second side of the
sticky foam. HOWEVER before adhering the bottom put inside what you are going to fill it with, in my case I used a
couple colors of micro beads that looked like water, then attached the bottom. As I hate the unfinished look along the
edge, i then took rafia yarn and adhered around it. Yarn could also be used. I also made a skillet in th same manner
for a recipe swap. Also you can use or what is commonly used s slide frames. You put a piece of clear plastic on the
bottom of the top piece then use the sticky foam tape a the depth, then on the bottom a solid piece of cs or the solid
piece of the slide. You can then decorate the unfinished edge with paint, yarn, whatever. Hope this helps kate and I
love making them I in fact need to break down and make a bunch of seaside ones filled with sand from a few of my visits.
((HUGS!)) OKC Dave Check out my pix and crafts! http://community.webshots.com/user/dspiketoo
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View entire thread: OT: New Jewelry Made (9-15-06)
Posted by Alicia on Sat Sep 16, 2006 3:13 AM Post subject: Re: OT: New Jewelry Made (9-15-06)
a-scrapbooking-diva wrote: [quote:2de7363856]HI. I made another piece of jewelry: http://home-and-
garden.webshots.com/photo/551199130/2048913390032555428sGCZKG [/quote:2de7363856] Very nice, Kate! I used to make
jewelry in high school. We used to have a store called Jewelcrafters in the local mall. You could buy a variety of
beads, clasps, jump rings, etc. If I remember correctly, they were priced by the unit, so you could buy as few or as
many as you wanted. I spent a lot of time there. <g> Alicia <--- still has a few necklaces (& loose
beads) from way back then (it was the 70s <g>)
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View entire thread: A kind of survey
Posted by Jessica on Tue Jul 11, 2006 11:37 PM Post subject: Re: A kind of survey
Karen - I too have been thinking of selling hand made items on ebay. Otherwise, so far I've only sold supplies, and
other various items. I have found that crafting supplies - beads, stickers, etc, sell really well, I think there are a
lot of crafters who like buying supplies off ebay for a bargain. (And I myself like to buy them for a bargain). As a
crafter myself, i wouldn't buy premade cards, or kits, but that's because I like to make them myself. However, I think
there are a lot of people who like the look and the idea of handmade cards that don't feel they can make them. Same
would be true for embelishments, etc. And I think there is a market out there for those items. The advantage of ebay
over a smaller auction site is you have a far wider audience to market to. So - i agree that trial and error might be
the best way to see what works. Good luck!!!! I'd love to hear about what you find works for you! Jessica Karen AKA
Kajikit wrote: [quote:b140f809b2]I want to start selling stuff on Ebay and I know it's a very crowded market... I do NOT
want to spend my time making whole albums or giftbooks - that's a lot more work than I want to do and I'd hate to spend
weeks working on something and have it not sell. I want to do much smaller (quicker) projects that will bring in a few
bucks and basically pay for my materials so I can keep on playing... So, if you were going to buy
scrapbooking/cardmaking items on Ebay, what would you be most likely to want: - Individual premade greeting cards
and envelopes, ready to send - Set of greeting cards and envys - blank cards and co-ordinating envelopes,
ready to decorate - hand-cut window-cards and envelopes, ready for you to decorate - card-making kits with
an example and all the embellishments to make the rest of them yourself (eg. pre-cut Christmas tree etc) -
embellishment kits (co-ordinating bits and pieces to play with) - punchies - decorated tags - semi-
finished page elements (eg. page topper with space to add your own title) - blank tags, mini-envelopes etc. -
complete page element (eg.page topper with title)[/quote:b140f809b2]
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View entire thread: Oriental Trading Co.
Posted by Cowchipper on Wed Jun 28, 2006 9:58 PM Post subject: Re: Oriental Trading Co.
I just ordered from their beads cartalog and the beads seam to be of good quality. I also ordered their cases that you
can put indiviual colored eyelets and brads in and they seem to be working well for me right now. I do like OTC. Yes
some of their stuff is cheesy but look at the full details before you order the item.the picture can make it look like
more or bigger then what you will get cowchipper .. "Lenora" <hamle06@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1151499210.929445.200210@y41g2000cwy.googlegroups.com... I just got a catlog of scrapbooking supplies from them. I
was wondering, has anyone ordered from them and are the products good quality? They had some really cute things at
great prices but I am wondering if you get what you pay for. cheers, Lenora
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View entire thread: OT: free bracelet kit
Posted by UPSyours2 on Tue Jun 20, 2006 10:19 PM Post subject: Re: OT: free bracelet kit
Thanks Chrissy! I ordered mine & also copy/pasted the link in email to share w/some of my friends! ~ANDREA~
Chrissy wrote: [quote:8dad3c93e9]Click on the below link to get a free bead bracelet kit to help cancer research. There
is no gimmick, this is free. You will get a bracelet kit with enough beads to make two bracelets The best part is,
Mereck will donate a $1 for each bracelet that is ordered. Be sure to place your order to help cancer research. Thank
you. Chrissy https://www.maketheconnection.org/order_beadkit/default.asp[/quote:8dad3c93e9]
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View entire thread: OT: free bracelet kit
Posted by christina.miller on Mon Jun 19, 2006 2:21 PM Post subject: Re: free bracelet kit
got mine ordered ... thanks! :) -- In Christ, <>< Christina My Blog: http://360.yahoo.com/mommymillerof3
http://www.myspace.com/kvcmommy "Chrissy" <mickey8888@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1150681894.569192.239620@f6g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... [quote:bf953eb993]Click on the below link to get a free
bead bracelet kit to help cancer research. There is no gimmick, this is free. You will get a bracelet kit with enough
beads to make two bracelets The best part is, Mereck will donate a $1 for each bracelet that is ordered. Be sure to
place your order to help cancer research. Thank you. Chrissy
https://www.maketheconnection.org/order_beadkit/default.asp [/quote:bf953eb993]
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View entire thread: OT: free bracelet kit
Posted by Chrissy on Mon Jun 19, 2006 2:51 AM Post subject: OT: free bracelet kit
Click on the below link to get a free bead bracelet kit to help cancer research. There is no gimmick, this is free.
You will get a bracelet kit with enough beads to make two bracelets The best part is, Mereck will donate a $1 for each
bracelet that is ordered. Be sure to place your order to help cancer research. Thank you. Chrissy
https://www.maketheconnection.org/order_beadkit/default.asp
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View entire thread: Looking for a kiln
Posted by jperi252002@yahoo.com on Sun Aug 13, 2006 1:29 PM Post subject: Re: Looking for a kiln
I have 3 electric kilns for sale...two larger, one with a collar, and one medioum size. If you are interested in
discussing this further, please email me with your telephone number. We are in Ks. Bill DeWitt wrote:
[quote:f0f0c872ec]Hi folks, My planned purchase of a used kiln fell through, so I am thinking about buying a new one.
If no one minds, I would like to pick some brains here before I commit. I have seen the various manufacturers, but of
course have no knowledge with which to differentiate between them. All I know is what I want to make, and the facilities
I have available. Maybe someone can recommend a unit for me? I have access to 120 and 240 on a big breaker, and I have
propane tanks on the premises. I have a shed with a chimney, a bricked-in metal clad firewall and a wood stove I could
remove. What I want to make is mostly small stuff, so I can use probably the smallest kilns available. So far my biggest
piece is under 2". I do want to do high temperature firings, gold glazes and such. Plus, I am on a -very- tight
budget, so it would be great if I could pick it up locally in Vermont or New Hampshire. Maybe a common brand that my
local supplier can ship in for me? I had been looking at "table-top" units meant for "dolls"(?) and
a couple which seem to be for making ceramics and glass beads. My attempts to make my own kiln, BTW, worked fairly
well, within limits. I was able to get very high temps but probably used an inordinate amount of propane to do so. If I
do fairly regular work I am sure I could save my investment back in energy conservation by buying a well made kiln.
Thanks in advance for any discussion or recommendations.[/quote:f0f0c872ec]
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View entire thread: Looking for a kiln
Posted by DKat on Thu Aug 03, 2006 6:37 PM Post subject: Re: Looking for a kiln
You should have lots of pottery studios or schools near you that might have electric kilns which have died and are not
worth repairing but would still work as gas kilns. They might consider selling or giving them away. May I ask why
you are wedded to high-fire? You can get some truly wonderful work from pit fire or raku. Right now EBay doesn't have
anything but if you keep an eye out, if the kiln is local to your area and you are the only one interested at the
moment you might get a steal because these are usually sold as "pick it up yourself" items only.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ECONO-KILN-J-SERIES-ELECTRIC-TOP-LOADING-NO-
RESERVE_W0QQitemZ290014053110QQihZ019QQcategoryZ116495QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/
OLYMPIC-ELECTRIC-STACKABLE-POTTERY-
KILN_W0QQitemZ220011396278QQihZ012QQcategoryZ116496QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem if you are willing to drive to
upstate NY or MA. L&L kilns has a Liberty Kiln that would be much better than a doll kiln. http://www.clay-
king.com/lllist.htm http://www.hotkilns.com/Liberty-Belle.html Not much help I am sorry to say. I have to say that
your attempt to make your own kiln was impressive. I look forward to hearing what you invent if that is the way
things go. Hope you make a great discovery soon! Donna "Bill DeWitt" <bill.jewitt@comsat.gov> wrote
in message news:rfydnULAaM5y5kzZnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@adelphia.com... [quote:abb917f44f]Hi folks, My planned purchase of a
used kiln fell through, so I am thinking about buying a new one. If no one minds, I would like to pick some brains here
before I commit. I have seen the various manufacturers, but of course have no knowledge with which to differentiate
between them. All I know is what I want to make, and the facilities I have available. Maybe someone can recommend a unit
for me? I have access to 120 and 240 on a big breaker, and I have propane tanks on the premises. I have a shed with a
chimney, a bricked-in metal clad firewall and a wood stove I could remove. What I want to make is mostly small stuff, so
I can use probably the smallest kilns available. So far my biggest piece is under 2". I do want to do high
temperature firings, gold glazes and such. Plus, I am on a -very- tight budget, so it would be great if I could pick it
up locally in Vermont or New Hampshire. Maybe a common brand that my local supplier can ship in for me? I had been
looking at "table-top" units meant for "dolls"(?) and a couple which seem to be for making ceramics
and glass beads. My attempts to make my own kiln, BTW, worked fairly well, within limits. I was able to get very high
temps but probably used an inordinate amount of propane to do so. If I do fairly regular work I am sure I could save my
investment back in energy conservation by buying a well made kiln. Thanks in advance for any discussion or
recommendations. [/quote:abb917f44f]
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View entire thread: Looking for a kiln
Posted by Bill DeWitt on Thu Aug 03, 2006 5:30 AM Post subject: Looking for a kiln
Hi folks, My planned purchase of a used kiln fell through, so I am thinking about buying a new one. If no one
minds, I would like to pick some brains here before I commit. I have seen the various manufacturers, but of course
have no knowledge with which to differentiate between them. All I know is what I want to make, and the facilities I have
available. Maybe someone can recommend a unit for me? I have access to 120 and 240 on a big breaker, and I have
propane tanks on the premises. I have a shed with a chimney, a bricked-in metal clad firewall and a wood stove I could
remove. What I want to make is mostly small stuff, so I can use probably the smallest kilns available. So far my biggest
piece is under 2". I do want to do high temperature firings, gold glazes and such. Plus, I am on a -very- tight
budget, so it would be great if I could pick it up locally in Vermont or New Hampshire. Maybe a common brand that my
local supplier can ship in for me? I had been looking at "table-top" units meant for "dolls"(?)
and a couple which seem to be for making ceramics and glass beads. My attempts to make my own kiln, BTW, worked
fairly well, within limits. I was able to get very high temps but probably used an inordinate amount of propane to do
so. If I do fairly regular work I am sure I could save my investment back in energy conservation by buying a well made
kiln. Thanks in advance for any discussion or recommendations.
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View entire thread: Fire Clay?
Posted by DKat on Wed Jul 26, 2006 3:02 PM Post subject: Re: Fire Clay?
Does anyone know what happens to cement blocks/bricks in a firing (pit fire for example)? "Bill DeWitt"
<bill.jewitt@comsat.gov> wrote in message news:JOadnZwcH_yx_ljZnZ2dnUVZ_qadnZ2d@adelphia.com...
[quote:f793a7524c] My local brickyard has bags of something called "Fire clay" which they instruct me to mix
with portland cement to make a fire brick. I suspect that this is wrong (or useful only for fireplaces). My intuition
tells me that I should form it into my shape (I have a special shape in mind) and then have it fired like regular clay.
Am I right? If I make a special shape with fire clay, then fire it properly, will I have a fire brick I can use? If so,
what are the criteria for firing it properly? Any limitations or requirements or discussion would be welcomed! My web
searches have not been fruitfull. BTW, my wild clay turned out to be merely a sticky-ish dirt. No amount of firing
short of melting it into glass beads would turn it into ceramics. As a glaze it is a pretty copper but completely
undurable. Thanks in advance, Bill [/quote:f793a7524c]
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View entire thread: Fire Clay?
Posted by Bob Masta on Tue Jul 25, 2006 1:54 PM Post subject: Re: Fire Clay?
On Mon, 24 Jul 2006 20:17:46 -0400, "Bill DeWitt" <bill.jewitt@comsat.gov> wrote: [quote:f48fc4119c] My
local brickyard has bags of something called "Fire clay" which they instruct me to mix with portland cement to
make a fire brick. I suspect that this is wrong (or useful only for fireplaces). My intuition tells me that I should
form it into my shape (I have a special shape in mind) and then have it fired like regular clay. Am I right? If I make
a special shape with fire clay, then fire it properly, will I have a fire brick I can use? If so, what are the criteria
for firing it properly? Any limitations or requirements or discussion would be welcomed! My web searches have not been
fruitfull. BTW, my wild clay turned out to be merely a sticky-ish dirt. No amount of firing short of melting it into
glass beads would turn it into ceramics. As a glaze it is a pretty copper but completely undurable. Thanks in advance,
Bill [/quote:f48fc4119c] I don't know about the Portland cement mix, but if you are trying to make firebricks to build
a kiln, I suspect you would be better off just using the fireclay, but mixing it with sawdust or some other burnout
material. This will give you an insulating fire brick that can withstand high kiln temperatures. Of course, only you
can judge whether it is worth all the time and effort compared to just buying IFB. You may not find it at your local
brickyard, but they can probably refer you to a place that has it. In my area (SE MIchigan, USA) I found that the best
place to get IFB is not a pottery supplier but a place that works on industrial furnaces. You will probably have to buy
it by the box (25 bricks), but that won't be a problem if you are building a kiln. Best regards, Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom D A Q A R T A Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis www.daqarta.com
Home of DaqGen, the FREEWARE signal generator
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View entire thread: Fire Clay?
Posted by Steve Mills on Tue Jul 25, 2006 11:47 AM Post subject: Re: Fire Clay?
Bill, That sounds very much like the stuff used normally for fireplace setting. I used it for setting wares in a wood-
salt kiln, for which it is excellent, however I can't get it down here in the UK any more which is a serious pain in the
you-know-what. If you want to make fire bricks, mix just enough plastic stoneware clay to it to get it to hold together
(actually you may not need to add anything) and fire to stoneware temperature. Steve Bath UK In article
<JOadnZwcH_yx_ljZnZ2dnUVZ_qadnZ2d@adelphia.com>, Bill DeWitt <bill.jewitt@comsat.gov> writes
[quote:2b04976fa3] My local brickyard has bags of something called "Fire clay" which they instruct me to mix
with portland cement to make a fire brick. I suspect that this is wrong (or useful only for fireplaces). My intuition
tells me that I should form it into my shape (I have a special shape in mind) and then have it fired like regular clay.
Am I right? If I make a special shape with fire clay, then fire it properly, will I have a fire brick I can use? If so,
what are the criteria for firing it properly? Any limitations or requirements or discussion would be welcomed! My web
searches have not been fruitfull. BTW, my wild clay turned out to be merely a sticky-ish dirt. No amount of firing
short of melting it into glass beads would turn it into ceramics. As a glaze it is a pretty copper but completely
undurable. Thanks in advance, Bill [/quote:2b04976fa3] -- Steve Mills Bath UK
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View entire thread: Fire Clay?
Posted by Bill DeWitt on Tue Jul 25, 2006 1:17 AM Post subject: Fire Clay?
My local brickyard has bags of something called "Fire clay" which they instruct me to mix with portland cement
to make a fire brick. I suspect that this is wrong (or useful only for fireplaces). My intuition tells me that I should
form it into my shape (I have a special shape in mind) and then have it fired like regular clay. Am I right? If I
make a special shape with fire clay, then fire it properly, will I have a fire brick I can use? If so, what are the
criteria for firing it properly? Any limitations or requirements or discussion would be welcomed! My web searches have
not been fruitfull. BTW, my wild clay turned out to be merely a sticky-ish dirt. No amount of firing short of
melting it into glass beads would turn it into ceramics. As a glaze it is a pretty copper but completely undurable.
Thanks in advance, Bill
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View entire thread: A pugged clay problem
Posted by Stephen Mills on Sun Mar 26, 2006 10:00 AM Post subject: Re: Salt experiment
The important thing with Egyptian Paste is (curiously) to avoid touching it as much as possible as the soluble salts
that make it glaze can be disturbed/removed by too much finger contact. The people I know who work with it mix it up in
a polythene bag, and wear thin latex gloves when modelling with it. See
<http://www.ceramicstoday.com/articles/092501.htm> For more information including 3 recipes. Steve Bath UK In
article <1143331369.262262.51930@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, plodder <andrew.sames@onetel.net> writes
[quote:519aadce41]Hi JM, Have you ever thought of looking at Egyptian paste recipes; various 'salts' are included in the
clay bodies and following this allowed to dry slowly forming salt crystals on the surface, when fired the crystals form
a glaze. It's a long time since I had a go at this myself but I seem to recall I ended up with a lot of blue/turqoise
beads. If you want a recipe I will try and dig one up from my records. I don't think that small quantities of this type
of body would cause much if any damage to an electric kiln, I certainly didn't notice any. Andy [/quote:519aadce41] --
Steve Mills Bath UK
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View entire thread: Bummed out about baking/ovens
Posted by nanner on Wed Oct 04, 2006 1:09 AM Post subject: Re: Progress Report Re: Bummed out about baking/ovens
That sounds like a good plan. i won't be baking any beads, except the little eyeballs but if they get dented on the
back it doesn't matter. i could keep a pan set aside of cornstarch for cooking itty bitty little parts and pieces I
bet, maybe small hands/feet, resting a head. i *do* hate picking off polyfil fibers. Do you think the cornstarch would
support heavy/larger pieces? Do you make large beads or very small pieces to bake that way? Right now I am finishing a
project I started last year (to prove to myself that YES it can be finished LOL) and it is going to be gigantic (still
under a foot tall i think) compared to the scale I plan to work my other figures. I am trying to scale down more and
more. Years ago I did huge plaster over wire & wood sculptures that were as large at 10' tall (seated!) so working
down to about 6" is absolutely wild for me!! thanks for the tip! I am so glad there are some folks here to help!
"Barbara Forbes-Lyons" <penguintrax@penguintrax.com> wrote in message news:4522f921@news.bnb-lp.com...
[quote:02be7c23a9]I like baking on a bed of cornstarch - it really cushions beads nicely and you don't have to worry
about denting from the polyfill. Learned that trick from Jana Roberts Benzon, but other artists do it as well. Barbara
Bead & Polymer Clay Votary There is a very fine line between a hobby and mental illness. (Dave Barry)
http://www.penguintrax.com and http://www.backseatgrammarian.com NEW! http://www.polymerclayworkshops.com nanner
wrote: My first baking test with the toaster oven as been a success, i think! I baked on the bottem rack on the
provided metal tray with a layer of poly-fil. i cooked some small (teeny) eyeballs and a 1" head and made a quick
hair-rooting tool (a clipped sewing needle in about 1.5" x .25" pc handle) baked all for a bit extra (about 30
min) becsue the temp seemed to hover a bit low ( around 255/260 degrees) All came out fine. The little eyeballs were
white canes with blue and black centers, no darkening. so - other than the limited space I guess I will try to use this
for awhile. I don't want something as annoying as this to slow down what I really want to do!!! [/quote:02be7c23a9]
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View entire thread: Ad: Moving sale
Posted by Anonymous on Fri Oct 06, 2006 10:30 PM Post subject: Re: Ad: Moving sale
UPDATED LIST- Link to pictures www.tonjastreasures.com/shop you can drop me an email at info(AT)tonjastreasures.com I
have: Photo-Ez Various Photo-Ez stencils Pics are uploaded to this directory: http://www.tonjastreasures.com/stencils A
few are used and have stains. Take 20% off those. Prices as follows: A= $15 (full 8 1/2" X 11" sheets) B= $8
(1/2 sheets) C= $5 D= $3 E= $2 F= $1 Paints, inks, powders, inclusions Lot of 7 Rub N Buff, 6 Treasure Gold wax, 1 new
Brush N Leaf $8 10 like new MicaMagic stamp pads & 8 refills (not all refills match the pads) $5 per pad - $2.50 per
reinker Misc Stamp pads (2 Brilliance: 1 new, 2 Metal Stamp Art, 1 Staz On, 2 Memeories, 4 metallic Dots)All have plenty
of ink $10all or can split them up. Coverables or to Embellish 7 drawer/door knobs( 2 ceramic , 5 wood) $2 6 round
ceramic dishes w/lids 2" across X 1 3/4" tall $1 each 2 fancy ceramic light switch covers (2 light switch
holes) $2 each Six 4"X6" handmade journals made from scratch ready to embellish $4 each One 6"X9"
handmade journals made from scratch ready to embellish $6 Group of glass items and 2 round candle plates $5(can sell
seperate) Tin with tiny funnels $2 Die Cut ATC holders/boxes(9) $3 Small glass bud vase $1 3 packs skeleton leaves $3 6
decor items (chapel windows and metal) $3 Lot hanging frames (I used to make TLS mosaics) $2 For Transfers or
Embellishments 4 Inkjet Tattoo paper by Royal Bright 4" X 5" five sheets pack $2 each HUGE lot of 12" X
12" scrapbook paper worth over $100 - $40 Wireform 2 packs brass & aluminum $4 Asian fabric samples 4 styles $2
3 bags pc mosaic tiles (baked) $2 Large bag of pc odds & ends (beads, pendants, etc) $5 HUGS lot of metal stampings,
faux asian coins, charms, keys, etc. $5 Lot of carved bone items $10 5 molded very intricate faces $15 Tools and Stuff
Bead rollers - #3 $7, #5 $7 - see them here http://www.poly-
tools.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=PI&Category_Code=ROLL 1 round metal paint mixing trays
to make hollow lentil beads $2 each Craft Knife with tiny pivoting blade + replacement blades. $2 3 black plastic clock
movements $1 all Misc lot of wire. Some on spools, some in plastic coated Fun Wire. $5 2 ArtEmboss color foils Green-
new, purple-tiny amount used. $5 lot of magents (mostly self adhesive) $2 3 packs skeleton leaves (scrapbooking type) $2
1 Tip set for fine line painting - 3 metal tips per kit. $2 Group of misc tools & texture $5 Glue Sticks & glue
pad $1 Box full of small squeeze bottles and paint pot strips - $8 Sample of Future floor wax and 7 tls tinted with mica
powder or glitter $1 3 mini sewing kit inserts (thread & needle) $1 Lot of paper items (watercolor, tracing, sketch,
velum, etc)$5 Metallic wall covering samples (great for mixed media) $3 Books & Magazines Expressions in Clay (OOP)
$10 My Favorite Things In Polymer Clay $8 Making Mosaic (not PC) Leslie Dierks $10 Weekend Crafter: Mosaic (not PC)
Martin Cheek $7 Art of Polymer Clay Donna Kato $10 Art of Fine Wood Jewelry (inspiration book) Tony Lydgate $10 Rubber
Stamp Extravaganza (inspiration book) Vesta Abel $10 Magazines (Beadwork Aug 05, Oct 05, Dec 04 - Beadstyle Mar06- Bead
Unique #10, PolymerCafe, Jewelry Crafts, Step by Step Beads) $2 each 2 clipart books $4 each
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View entire thread: Question for the woodworkers in the crowd...
Posted by Anonymous on Mon Oct 02, 2006 9:49 PM Post subject: Re: Question for the woodworkers in the crowd...
Charles V. Craig wrote: [quote:bcd8dc5da5]Hi all, Sears USA (don't think Sears Canada did) used to\still does carry an
attachment\accessory for routers that enabled a person to make fluted & spiral table legs, posts, cut threads, etc.
Kinda like a combo lathe and milling machine for routers. I can't remember what they called it, and can't seem to find
it on either of their web sites. Does anyone have any info on this contraption? Availablility? Maybe a set of plans to
make my own? My darling wife bought me a router for Christmas a couple years ago, and I haven't used it much. This
particular accessory has always interested me, but I've not really researched it until now. Thanks, Charles
[/quote:bcd8dc5da5] Sears had a rather rinky-dink version but it was cheap. I haven't been to the local woodworking
machinery show in the last couple of years but there were a couple of designs that were a lot more flexible at past
shows, could be had up to 6' long. Just spendy, started in the $500 range. I haven't seen any plans for same, IIRC,
the Sears version was patented. All were variations on a theme, a couple of tubes for ways, a plastic carriage to
hold the router, adjustable for depth and aircraft cable to run the thing back and forth. The headstock had a square
cup to hold the work and it could be indexed, don't know how many index holes. Tailstock rode on the tubes and had a
similar cup that freely rotated. The index part was connected to a drum with two helices on it, same pitch as the cable
diameter, one to take up, one to feed out. Crank on the end. Lots of pulleys. The only way I could see to change the
pitch of the cut helix was to change the cable drum diameter. Might have been something like change gears on the
higher-end models, but I sure didn't see any on the ones at the shows. I think the indexing gear could be disengaged
from the cable drum and locked so longitudinal flats and flutes could be cut and the crank could be disengaged from the
cable drum with the carriage locked so grooves and beads could be cut around the circumference. "Router
Crafter" is what sticks in my mind. The Sears version had very limited space between the centers, like 18" or
24", would be a short railing or bed post. Not too useful for turning out architectural decorations. The longer
versions at the shows were a lot more interesting to me, but no immediate use for same and no place to park it. The
workpiece examples they had were neat, but I wondered how long it took to produce each one. I also think there was a
tracer function to reproduce a flat template in the round. Nothing that a good mechanic couldn't duplicate, given a
sight of the original. Stan
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View entire thread: Home sheet metal stamping help needed!!!
Posted by Robin S. on Wed Sep 27, 2006 7:21 PM Post subject: Re: Cudos to Robin S. was Re: Home sheet metal stamping help
super88 wrote: [quote:f6e3c9cd1b]Robin, WOW!! I have to say that I really appreciate your encouragement. I had thought
about just using the draw punch, but there is a slight impression in the center of the panel I'd like to get from the
stamping. [/quote:f6e3c9cd1b] Unless that you *need* that impression in order for the panel to be usable, I would
strongly suggest against trying to create it. Not only do you then have to have a female cavity, you also have to
contend with what we call "inside metal". This means that you do not have the luxury of a draw bead beside
that feature. If you have problems creating that feature (and you *will* of course), you cannot just adjust the draw
bead to suit. This is because the draw bead with affect the large rads as well as your impression. Notice the area
above gas caps on car bodysides/quarter panels. This area frequently has cosmetic issues because of this exact problem.
Indeed even Mercedes and BMWs have this problem because of the difficulty of removing it (and they're a lot more picky
than the big three or any of the Japanese makers). Now, I'm assuming this impression is a formed impression, not just
stamped. If it's stamped, it won't be a big issue and you should not try to stamp using the draw die (certainly
possible, but not simple). [quote:f6e3c9cd1b]My whole dilemma was where to place the draw beads, and if I understand
correctly, around the corners is where I'd want them. [/quote:f6e3c9cd1b] Yes, exactly. [quote:f6e3c9cd1b]I will follow
your direction to the best of my ability (or lack of) and see what happens. I'm still planning my next attempt, so it
may be a few weeks before the first try. I currently have about 10 hours work in the first 10 or so I made using a
welded up bar stock skeleton of a male and female die. The panel is about 21" x 30". I can sell then and
afford to buy a real press with the profits if I can make then successfully. Hence the need for one but the desire for
50. If it helps, a cutaway of the panel would look something like below. __ | | ___ |_I [/quote:f6e3c9cd1b] It's a
good thing that's an inner panel. It has features similar to door inner panels today. Very deep draws which we must do
it one or two hits (you get 5 or less operations to make a complete panel). If I'm seeing your drawing correctly (it's
just a section of half the panel, right?) you're going to have problems because of the reversed nature of the draw on
the inside. This will necessitate a female half of the die which will bring the inside back in. Remember that all male
rads are master. In this case, the draw cavity will have male rads (nearly a draw punch in itself) which will be master.
I'd recommend instead of a solid draw punch, only create the ring (with a hollow center). Flats on draw dies serve much
less of a purpose than rads. The female die cavity will need to be solid so that you can get your impression in the
center. Good luck with this. While you're *only* having trouble with the corners wrinkling, this is a much more
significant problem than perhaps you may think. It would be helpful if I had time to make some sketches, but that's
unfortunately unlikely to occure given my time constraints. Keep the questions coming. Regards, Robin
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View entire thread: Home sheet metal stamping help needed!!!
Posted by super88 on Wed Sep 27, 2006 6:58 PM Post subject: Re: Cudos to Robin S. was Re: Home sheet metal stamping help
Robin, WOW!! I have to say that I really appreciate your encouragement. I had thought about just using the draw punch,
but there is a slight impression in the center of the panel I'd like to get from the stamping. My whole dilemma was
where to place the draw beads, and if I understand correctly, around the corners is where I'd want them. I will follow
your direction to the best of my ability (or lack of) and see what happens. I'm still planning my next attempt, so it
may be a few weeks before the first try. I currently have about 10 hours work in the first 10 or so I made using a
welded up bar stock skeleton of a male and female die. The panel is about 21" x 30". I can sell then and
afford to buy a real press with the profits if I can make then successfully. Hence the need for one but the desire for
50. If it helps, a cutaway of the panel would look something like below. __ | | ___ |_I Tim Robin S.
wrote: [quote:76961a8055]super88 wrote: Robin, Thank you so much for you explanation!!! That is exactly the kind of
input I need. I am an Auto Tech and self taught bodyman. The part I'm needing to make is actually an inner door panel
from a late 1920's car. I suspect the original part was crush formed, but since I don't have the proper equipment,
that's not happening. That was how I performed my first attempts, and the panel is perfect, except for the corners.
From a die maker's perspective, the panel usually is never "perfect". Indeed, cars go *out* of production with
cosmetic and dimensional issues still in the dies. Just too expensive/difficult to fix. The part is slightly concave,
wich I've managed to achieve. I will try using the draw bead approach (When I said binder, that's actually what I meant)
Surface finish is not terribly important. At that point, you should only really be worried about thinning in the rads.
When you shine a light from the top of the rads down, if you see any slight shadow which looks like a line running along
the rad, that's probably thinning. Mind you, this isn't easy to see, but you should be at least aware of it. You should
ease off the bead until it disappears. If your panel splits at the beginning, remember these areas as they will continue
to be in danger of thinning/splitting even after you think you've gotten rid of it. I'm by no means a die maker, but I
have set myself on a mission. It's not a very complex piece, which is why when I look at it I say," I can make
this". If I fail, I fail. But if I succeed...oh the pride. I would like to get 50 parts out, but I only need one. I
looked into having the part made, and your estimate was about right, even for the short run. BTW, the Die is poured of
alloy. (yes I built a smelter capable of 50 lbs Al). If I succeed, and even if I don't, I'd be happy to share the
results. Any more suggestions would be great. I'm open to any ideas. Well, unfortunately the actual technique required
to tryout your die is not something I can write about. Remember that the draw punch (male) is master to the cavity.
Further, cavity is then master to the binder. I'm not sure how much spotting you'll end up doing, but *never* adjust the
draw punch! It must stay flat and straight in all respects. Do not grind it. Only stone and polish it as required. I
wouldn't even recommend using a draw cavity really (the female part) given your requirements. Basically the binder must
hold the sheet metal before the draw punch makes contact. Once the panel is held, the punch is pushed into the sheet and
the sheet is drawn over it (all motion is relative). So, one half (we'll say the "lower" as it would be in
toolmaking terms) will have your draw puch, and your binder, which sits above the top of the draw punch when the die is
open, and below the bottom of the rads on the draw punch when the die is in the closed position. So that's two main
parts. The third (on the "upper" side) will be a ring which faces the binder. The ring will have pockets to
accomodate the draw beads on the binder. Given your requirements, it should be sufficient to have the ring and the
binder be as flat as can be made, ideally surface ground, but machined would likely work (indeed, perhaps having just
cold-rolled finish would work for you). Balance blocks probably won't be necessary to get your one or 50 parts. The
binder and the ring should be of adequate thickness to not flex when the punch goes through. You didn't specify the
outside dimensions of your panel, but probably steel plate roughly 3/4-1" thich would be alright. You may get away
with less (you won't know any of this until you try). Since your production run is so small, you can probably just use
c-clamps or whatever to hold the panel between the binder and ring. Nuts to the springs. A note on beads. You may find
it much simpler to just weld the beads on and spot them into the pockets on the ring (use a die grinder with carbide
burr to make the pockets). The beads cannot have a "welded" finish. They must be welded too large and then
ground down until they are straight (with rads over which the metal flows) and have only bare metal. Again, hard to
describe, easy to show. Mig or stick is your best bet. Whatever will stick to the binder. Understand that if the panel,
during drawing, flows over the beads and then off the beads completely, you will get excessive flow at the end of the
stroke. What I'm saying is that you need to make your blank panels big enough such that they do not get sucked past the
beads once the panel is hit. Mind you, you *can* use this to your advantage when performing tryout. If you're not
getting enough flow, cut your blank back in the torn/thinning areas and you'll notice greater flow (similar effect of
actually grinding the beads). BTW, grinding straight beads is done with a disc grinder using the flat face of the disc.
Do NOT use the bloody edge of the grinder wheel! You will take the straightness out of the bead and it's a pain to get
it back. Remember to always recreate your rads once you've reduced the height of the bead. Not having rads will give you
splits and thinning (and overall wacky results). Grinding beads which follow a rad is done with a die grinder. Use a
carbide burr to remove material quickly, and always finish with a pink stone to give a nice finish and to cut the rads
again. Stoning your beads after grinding them is *highly* recommended unless you're getting huge splits down the panel,
in which case stoning them is only a drop in the bucket. The above are general guidelines. Your milage *will* vary.
Keep your expectations low and you'll be surprised by your results. How many hours did you plan on investing in this
little diddy? Can you sell the panels? Regards, Robin[/quote:76961a8055]
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View entire thread: Home sheet metal stamping help needed!!!
Posted by Robin S. on Wed Sep 27, 2006 5:20 PM Post subject: Re: Cudos to Robin S. was Re: Home sheet metal stamping help
super88 wrote: [quote:2983d243c5]Robin, Thank you so much for you explanation!!! That is exactly the kind of input I
need. I am an Auto Tech and self taught bodyman. The part I'm needing to make is actually an inner door panel from a
late 1920's car. I suspect the original part was crush formed, but since I don't have the proper equipment, that's not
happening. That was how I performed my first attempts, and the panel is perfect, except for the corners. From a die
maker's perspective, the panel usually is never "perfect". Indeed, cars go *out* of production with cosmetic
and dimensional[/quote:2983d243c5] issues still in the dies. Just too expensive/difficult to fix. [quote:2983d243c5]The
part is slightly concave, wich I've managed to achieve. I will try using the draw bead approach (When I said binder,
that's actually what I meant) Surface finish is not terribly important. [/quote:2983d243c5] At that point, you should
only really be worried about thinning in the rads. When you shine a light from the top of the rads down, if you see any
slight shadow which looks like a line running along the rad, that's probably thinning. Mind you, this isn't easy to see,
but you should be at least aware of it. You should ease off the bead until it disappears. If your panel splits at the
beginning, remember these areas as they will continue to be in danger of thinning/splitting even after you think you've
gotten rid of it. [quote:2983d243c5]I'm by no means a die maker, but I have set myself on a mission. It's not a very
complex piece, which is why when I look at it I say," I can make this". If I fail, I fail. But if I
succeed...oh the pride. I would like to get 50 parts out, but I only need one. I looked into having the part made, and
your estimate was about right, even for the short run. BTW, the Die is poured of alloy. (yes I built a smelter capable
of 50 lbs Al). If I succeed, and even if I don't, I'd be happy to share the results. Any more suggestions would be
great. I'm open to any ideas. [/quote:2983d243c5] Well, unfortunately the actual technique required to tryout your die
is not something I can write about. Remember that the draw punch (male) is master to the cavity. Further, cavity is
then master to the binder. I'm not sure how much spotting you'll end up doing, but *never* adjust the draw punch! It
must stay flat and straight in all respects. Do not grind it. Only stone and polish it as required. I wouldn't even
recommend using a draw cavity really (the female part) given your requirements. Basically the binder must hold the sheet
metal before the draw punch makes contact. Once the panel is held, the punch is pushed into the sheet and the sheet is
drawn over it (all motion is relative). So, one half (we'll say the "lower" as it would be in toolmaking
terms) will have your draw puch, and your binder, which sits above the top of the draw punch when the die is open, and
below the bottom of the rads on the draw punch when the die is in the closed position. So that's two main parts. The
third (on the "upper" side) will be a ring which faces the binder. The ring will have pockets to accomodate
the draw beads on the binder. Given your requirements, it should be sufficient to have the ring and the binder be as
flat as can be made, ideally surface ground, but machined would likely work (indeed, perhaps having just cold-rolled
finish would work for you). Balance blocks probably won't be necessary to get your one or 50 parts. The binder and the
ring should be of adequate thickness to not flex when the punch goes through. You didn't specify the outside dimensions
of your panel, but probably steel plate roughly 3/4-1" thich would be alright. You may get away with less (you
won't know any of this until you try). Since your production run is so small, you can probably just use c-clamps or
whatever to hold the panel between the binder and ring. Nuts to the springs. A note on beads. You may find it much
simpler to just weld the beads on and spot them into the pockets on the ring (use a die grinder with carbide burr to
make the pockets). The beads cannot have a "welded" finish. They must be welded too large and then ground down
until they are straight (with rads over which the metal flows) and have only bare metal. Again, hard to describe, easy
to show. Mig or stick is your best bet. Whatever will stick to the binder. Understand that if the panel, during
drawing, flows over the beads and then off the beads completely, you will get excessive flow at the end of the stroke.
What I'm saying is that you need to make your blank panels big enough such that they do not get sucked past the beads
once the panel is hit. Mind you, you *can* use this to your advantage when performing tryout. If you're not getting
enough flow, cut your blank back in the torn/thinning areas and you'll notice greater flow (similar effect of actually
grinding the beads). BTW, grinding straight beads is done with a disc grinder using the flat face of the disc. Do NOT
use the bloody edge of the grinder wheel! You will take the straightness out of the bead and it's a pain to get it back.
Remember to always recreate your rads once you've reduced the height of the bead. Not having rads will give you splits
and thinning (and overall wacky results). Grinding beads which follow a rad is done with a die grinder. Use a carbide
burr to remove material quickly, and always finish with a pink stone to give a nice finish and to cut the rads again.
Stoning your beads after grinding them is *highly* recommended unless you're getting huge splits down the panel, in
which case stoning them is only a drop in the bucket. The above are general guidelines. Your milage *will* vary. Keep
your expectations low and you'll be surprised by your results. How many hours did you plan on investing in this little
diddy? Can you sell the panels? Regards, Robin
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View entire thread: Home sheet metal stamping help needed!!!
Posted by Brian Lawson on Wed Sep 27, 2006 3:19 PM Post subject: Cudos to Robin S. was Re: Home sheet metal stamping help n
Hey Robin, Cudos on your reply to the OP. Very well done. Take care. Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario. ps...I don't
recall seeing anything mentioned, but are you a journeyman now? Sure been well over five years since the ambitious
high-school project days! XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX On 27 Sep 2006 00:14:05 -0700, "Robin S."
<lasernerd@hotmail.com> wrote: [quote:6f124802fe] F. George McDuffee wrote: On 26 Sep 2006 17:24:53 -0700,
"super88" <tdeborde@gatecom.com wrote: I'm going to post this message to all groups that I feel may be
able to help. Bear with me, I'm ignorant, but ambitous. I'm tryng to make something similar to a cookie sheet. A little
larger radius (2 1/2")on the corners and about 1 1/4" deep out of 22 ga. cold rolled steel. I build
automotive body panel dies. The most important part of this affair is to understand what kind of part you expect out of
the die. If you're expecting a cosmetically perfect piece of sheet metal that, if painted, looks like a mirror, you're
expecting way too much. It sounds like you have never built a die at all, so you're missing some basic knowledge and a
whole lot of experience. But since you asked... I've built a "press" using I beams and 25 ton bottle jacks to
do the job.(Keep in mind if I could afford to job this out, or pruchase a press, things would be different.) Anyways,
I've managed to make the part except for the corners wrinkle badly. I'm in the process of casting the female to allow me
to use binders. The question is where is the best place to bind the blank? Typically the entire blank is held in a
binder. This may not be absolutely necessary, however. Indeed, it takes quite a bit of work to make a binder actually do
its job. It should be understood that it is not the job of the binder to squeeze the snot out of the panel. The binder
is only there to prevent wrinkling. It does this by being *exactly* one sheet metal thickness away from the draw cavity
which it faces. This is achieved by the long and tedious process of spotting. Additionally, binders have balance blocks
which actually prevent the binder from squeezing the material. Beads, on the other hand, are a bit different. Draw
beads increase the resistance to the metal flow into the die cavity. A bottom line rule is that when you get wrinkling,
you're getting excessive flow and you need to reduce it. When you get thinning/tearing, you're getting insufficient flow
and you need to increase it. Beads are used by the toolmaker to adjust this flow. Beads which are rads will cause
resistance where as lock beads which have a square profile (with small rads) will actually prevent virtually any metal
from flowing (causing stretching instead of drawing). Typically you start out with a rather excessive bead which is sure
to tear your panel. Then, you grind away the bead until the tearing disappears, and you ideally get what you want (much
easier said than done). Note: the binder force must ensure that the panel's tendancy to wrinkle does not push the
binder away from the panel itself. Remember that the force available from the press will have to oppose the binder force
while forming the panel as well. Nitro springs are good if you don't have a draw cushion (you don't) but in your case,
die springs may work. It's difficult to tell. Since your corners are wrinkling, you need to add beads around them. The
beads should taper into nothing (or at least be reduced) as they enter the straights. Running a bead around your entire
profile will allow you more control over the flow into your die, but adds complexity. In the corners, or along the
straights? Any help, opinions, suggestions, ideas are appreciated! I'm doing this with determination and junk layin
around the yard. Buy a 10K press, hire a die maker...etc. are not the answers I'm looking for. Unless someone is willing
to produce this for less than a grand. Thanks again!! You just need to understand that if this doesn't work out the way
you wanted, it is unlikely you will ever find out why. This type of skill cannot be learned from printed words. Only
experience under someone more capable can give you the ability to create excellent results. Indeed, making a toolmaker
who can build and tryout a class A draw die (outer sheet metal, cosmetically "perfect") usually takes 5+ years
after apprenticeship. To give you an idea, complex body panel draw dies can cost in excess of $500k each. Other
important points: Any rad which the metal is flowing over *needs* to be polished to a mirror. This typically requires
polishing stones (up to 100 grit) and then emery cloth up to 600 grit (120, 240, 400, 600). Any rad which the metal is
flowing over *needs* to be a true rad. If you can feel edges around any part of the rad, you are increasing the
resistance to flow and you're likely to get a tear or at least thinning in that area. Spotting blue is nearly a
requirement unless you have virtually no specifications beyond the part not splitting in half (and maybe even so).
Again, the requirements of the panel need to be specified. Smaller femal rads shall not spot into the panel. Metal
flows over male rads only. Female rads are to be cleared out. If this die has to make more than about 1000 parts, flame
hardening the rads is virtually a necessity. The rads will get scored with any debris on the panels and will eventually
wear away if left soft. ============== The ingenuity and dynamism of participants of these groups continues to impress
me. I think I understand your product/problem (and then again maybe not.) The sides and ends form well because these
are flat curves. The corners however are compound curves that bend two directions at the same time with the result
there is an excess of material and it wrinkles. This is the same problem that you encounter when you wrap a package,
and have to fold the corners over to make everything fit. Indeed, many cookie sheets have "envelope" or
folded ends, or the corners are "fluted" for just this reason. Therefore, it is doubtful that binders will
help the problem, because the [extra] material is not moving in from the sides/ends during forming, but is preexisting
in the flat sheet. Draw beads will solve the problem, assuming the OP is capable of adjusting them correctly (very
unlikely, but that depends on the requirements of the panel). A binder by itself is indeed very unlikely to solve the
problem. Good luck on your product, what ever it may be. One final thought - have you contacted Elko or other cookie
sheet manufacturers? They may have something off the shelf. By *far* the best advice available. Regards,
Robin[/quote:6f124802fe]
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View entire thread: Home sheet metal stamping help needed!!!
Posted by Robin S. on Wed Sep 27, 2006 8:14 AM Post subject: Re: Home sheet metal stamping help needed!!!
F. George McDuffee wrote: [quote:799fa150c8]On 26 Sep 2006 17:24:53 -0700, "super88" <tdeborde@gatecom.com
wrote: I'm going to post this message to all groups that I feel may be able to help. Bear with me, I'm ignorant, but
ambitous. I'm tryng to make something similar to a cookie sheet. A little larger radius (2 1/2")on the corners and
about 1 1/4" deep out of 22 ga. cold rolled steel. [/quote:799fa150c8] I build automotive body panel dies. The most
important part of this affair is to understand what kind of part you expect out of the die. If you're expecting a
cosmetically perfect piece of sheet metal that, if painted, looks like a mirror, you're expecting way too much. It
sounds like you have never built a die at all, so you're missing some basic knowledge and a whole lot of experience. But
since you asked... [quote:799fa150c8]I've built a "press" using I beams and 25 ton bottle jacks to do the
job.(Keep in mind if I could afford to job this out, or pruchase a press, things would be different.) Anyways, I've
managed to make the part except for the corners wrinkle badly. I'm in the process of casting the female to allow me to
use binders. The question is where is the best place to bind the blank? [/quote:799fa150c8] Typically the entire blank
is held in a binder. This may not be absolutely necessary, however. Indeed, it takes quite a bit of work to make a
binder actually do its job. It should be understood that it is not the job of the binder to squeeze the snot out of the
panel. The binder is only there to prevent wrinkling. It does this by being *exactly* one sheet metal thickness away
from the draw cavity which it faces. This is achieved by the long and tedious process of spotting. Additionally, binders
have balance blocks which actually prevent the binder from squeezing the material. Beads, on the other hand, are a bit
different. Draw beads increase the resistance to the metal flow into the die cavity. A bottom line rule is that when you
get wrinkling, you're getting excessive flow and you need to reduce it. When you get thinning/tearing, you're getting
insufficient flow and you need to increase it. Beads are used by the toolmaker to adjust this flow. Beads which are rads
will cause resistance where as lock beads which have a square profile (with small rads) will actually prevent virtually
any metal from flowing (causing stretching instead of drawing). Typically you start out with a rather excessive bead
which is sure to tear your panel. Then, you grind away the bead until the tearing disappears, and you ideally get what
you want (much easier said than done). Note: the binder force must ensure that the panel's tendancy to wrinkle does not
push the binder away from the panel itself. Remember that the force available from the press will have to oppose the
binder force while forming the panel as well. Nitro springs are good if you don't have a draw cushion (you don't) but in
your case, die springs may work. It's difficult to tell. Since your corners are wrinkling, you need to add beads around
them. The beads should taper into nothing (or at least be reduced) as they enter the straights. Running a bead around
your entire profile will allow you more control over the flow into your die, but adds complexity. [quote:799fa150c8]In
the corners, or along the straights? Any help, opinions, suggestions, ideas are appreciated! I'm doing this with
determination and junk layin around the yard. Buy a 10K press, hire a die maker...etc. are not the answers I'm looking
for. Unless someone is willing to produce this for less than a grand. Thanks again!! [/quote:799fa150c8] You just need
to understand that if this doesn't work out the way you wanted, it is unlikely you will ever find out why. This type of
skill cannot be learned from printed words. Only experience under someone more capable can give you the ability to
create excellent results. Indeed, making a toolmaker who can build and tryout a class A draw die (outer sheet metal,
cosmetically "perfect") usually takes 5+ years after apprenticeship. To give you an idea, complex body panel
draw dies can cost in excess of $500k each. Other important points: Any rad which the metal is flowing over *needs* to
be polished to a mirror. This typically requires polishing stones (up to 100 grit) and then emery cloth up to 600 grit
(120, 240, 400, 600). Any rad which the metal is flowing over *needs* to be a true rad. If you can feel edges around
any part of the rad, you are increasing the resistance to flow and you're likely to get a tear or at least thinning in
that area. Spotting blue is nearly a requirement unless you have virtually no specifications beyond the part not
splitting in half (and maybe even so). Again, the requirements of the panel need to be specified. Smaller femal rads
shall not spot into the panel. Metal flows over male rads only. Female rads are to be cleared out. If this die has to
make more than about 1000 parts, flame hardening the rads is virtually a necessity. The rads will get scored with any
debris on the panels and will eventually wear away if left soft. [quote:799fa150c8]============== The ingenuity and
dynamism of participants of these groups continues to impress me. I think I understand your product/problem (and then
again maybe not.) The sides and ends form well because these are flat curves. The corners however are compound curves
that bend two directions at the same time with the result there is an excess of material and it wrinkles. This is the
same problem that you encounter when you wrap a package, and have to fold the corners over to make everything fit.
Indeed, many cookie sheets have "envelope" or folded ends, or the corners are "fluted" for just this
reason. Therefore, it is doubtful that binders will help the problem, because the [extra] material is not moving in from
the sides/ends during forming, but is preexisting in the flat sheet. [/quote:799fa150c8] Draw beads will solve the
problem, assuming the OP is capable of adjusting them correctly (very unlikely, but that depends on the requirements of
the panel). A binder by itself is indeed very unlikely to solve the problem. [quote:799fa150c8] Good luck on your
product, what ever it may be. One final thought - have you contacted Elko or other cookie sheet manufacturers? They
may have something off the shelf. [/quote:799fa150c8] By *far* the best advice available. Regards, Robin
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View entire thread: Interesting wood handle fit problem
Posted by Tom Gardner on Wed Aug 02, 2006 1:37 PM Post subject: Re: Interesting wood handle fit problem
"Mawdeeb" <Mawdeeb@verizon.net> wrote in message news:rRYzg.4862$zV6.4121@trnddc03...
[quote:dadbc13060]Sevenhundred Elves wrote: Gerald Miller wrote: On Wed, 02 Aug 2006 01:28:43 GMT, Sevenhundred Elves
sevenhundred@elves.invalid> wrote: On the other hand, the PU glues suggested by others would be cheaper and
quicker. It's true what they say, it foams and swells so it fills out the irregularities. Really magic. Don't know why I
didn't think of that. S. Just bought some from Lee Valley and the instruction sheet specifically mentions that it will
not function as a gap filler. The thick layer has little strength? Gerry :-)} London, Canada Yes, the more it foams,
the weaker it will be, so you will have to experiment to find out how much moisture needs to be applied, if any. It is
moisture that makes it foam and also makes it harden. I wonder why they say it won't work as a gap filler. Maybe they
sell some other product that's better as a gap filler, or maybe they were just trying to make sure that they wouldn't be
held responsible if something breaks after being glued in a less than optimal way, which it admittedly is. S. The
trick there is to add a little silica or glass beads to the handle after applying the glue. Either dusted on or dipped
in a bucket of fine beads. This is also done with epoxies to give them more body and filler strength for gap filling.
Same principle should work for PU. Jim Vrzal Holiday,Fl. [/quote:dadbc13060] Oooooo!
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View entire thread: Interesting wood handle fit problem
Posted by Mawdeeb on Wed Aug 02, 2006 8:52 AM Post subject: Re: Interesting wood handle fit problem
Sevenhundred Elves wrote: [quote:31bd886c95]Gerald Miller wrote: On Wed, 02 Aug 2006 01:28:43 GMT, Sevenhundred Elves
sevenhundred@elves.invalid> wrote: On the other hand, the PU glues suggested by others would be cheaper and
quicker. It's true what they say, it foams and swells so it fills out the irregularities. Really magic. Don't know why I
didn't think of that. S. Just bought some from Lee Valley and the instruction sheet specifically mentions that it will
not function as a gap filler. The thick layer has little strength? Gerry :-)} London, Canada Yes, the more it foams,
the weaker it will be, so you will have to experiment to find out how much moisture needs to be applied, if any. It is
moisture that makes it foam and also makes it harden. I wonder why they say it won't work as a gap filler. Maybe they
sell some other product that's better as a gap filler, or maybe they were just trying to make sure that they wouldn't be
held responsible if something breaks after being glued in a less than optimal way, which it admittedly is. S.
[/quote:31bd886c95] The trick there is to add a little silica or glass beads to the handle after applying the glue.
Either dusted on or dipped in a bucket of fine beads. This is also done with epoxies to give them more body and filler
strength for gap filling. Same principle should work for PU. Jim Vrzal Holiday,Fl.
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View entire thread: Drilling Grade 8 bolts
Posted by Don Foreman on Wed Jul 19, 2006 4:57 AM Post subject: Re: Drilling Grade 8 bolts
On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 01:16:28 GMT, Ignoramus18807 <ignoramus18807@NOSPAM.18807.invalid> wrote:
[quote:ca931ff5ce]On Tue, 18 Jul 2006 14:47:54 -0500, Don Foreman <dforeman@NOSPAMgoldengate.net> wrote: On Tue,
18 Jul 2006 17:49:43 GMT, Ignoramus18807 ignoramus18807@NOSPAM.18807.invalid> wrote: On Tue, 18 Jul 2006 12:43:10
-0500, Don Foreman <dforeman@NOSPAMgoldengate.net> wrote: On Tue, 18 Jul 2006 04:06:11 GMT, Ignoramus18860
ignoramus18860@NOSPAM.18860.invalid> wrote: On Sat, 15 Jul 2006 02:07:29 GMT, Ignoramus19864
<ignoramus19864@NOSPAM.19864.invalid> wrote: Are grade 8 bolts drillable? I just realized that bolts that I bought
from McMaster this afternoon for making fittings are grade 8, high strength, and am a little worried that perhaps they
are going to be difficult to drill (lengthwise). Just drilled two bolts, made two 1 3/4" or so holes of about
1/8" ID. It was quite easy. I had to resharpen the drill once and used cutting fluid. No big deal at all. The
homemade "fittings" seem to fit the adapters on the torch. I then welded little 1/4" NPT pipe nipples to
the bolts. That again reminded me why TIG is a good thing. http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/12-Plasma-Torch/
torch-fitting-1.jpg http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/12-Plasma-Torch/torch-fitting-2.jpg Good job, Ig! Wow Don,
thank you. It is not as good as it looks (the NPT pipe is not exactly coaxial with bolt, not too bad but nothing to brag
about), but thank you anyway for the compliment, coming from you etc. The consistent appearance of the TIG weld is not
how I made it originally, it was not so good, but then I "re-melted" the weld and it all flowed around nicely.
Whatever works! TIG is nice that way, allows fixing boo-boos. Definitely. Now that you're "getting there"
with TIG and since you already have air, you might think about finding a gritblasting box for $9.95 or something. A
couple of minutes in the box o' glass beads does wonders for appearance. Also good prep for painting or plating. The
import siphon guns that come with import boxes (ala HF) are utter junk, but the S-25 siphon gun from www.tptools.com
works great as long as the air is reasonably dry -- as from your drier. Don, is that what people call "blast
cabinets"? I am sorry, I looked at that website and there is a few things and I was not sure which one is right. i
Yes. Here's a better link to the S-25 gun itself: http://tinyurl.com/ku7mm It would be easy enough to build a box
out of plywood or sheetmetal with a plastic lid. TP Tools sells plans but I don't think you'd need any plans.
Further, you can probably buy a box for less than the materials required to make one. They're just boxes with a
transparent lid or door you can see thru, perhaps a shaped bottom that funnels the media a bit, a couple of arm holes
with long rubber gloves and a filtered exhaust port. Northern Tool has the gloves. (They also have boxes, as does HF,
with really crappy siphon guns) My exhaust port goes to a shop vac with a HEPA filter in it. A light inside is nice.
I had a dentist that made a box for his microblaster (like an airbrush, for working on crowns) out of a plastic
wastebasket! Don, my problem is that I do not visualize how a blast cabinet works. Do the beads stay in the cabinet
somehow and recirculate? I will read up some more, but I already tried finding some good description on how it works
(and did not find much). I definitely do not have enough space for a blast cabinet in regular size. My previous thoughts
(which are possibly wrong) centered around some tumbler type thing, for which I already have most components like DC
gear motor etc. i They don't have to be very big. Mine is 22-1/2 x 18-1/2 x 18.[/quote:ca931ff5ce] Yes, most of the
media stays in the box. The siphon gun sucks it from the bottom of the box and blasts it, but it stays in the box. It
eventually gets broken into finer bits which a small shopvac sucks out as dust, but that takes a while. I'm still
working with a 50 lb bag of glass beads I bought probably 5 years ago, maybe more. I use it quite often but
everything I do is pretty small and nothing takes very long. Your parts that started this thread are excellent
examples. About 20 seconds in the box (per part) would have them bright and clean all over. I guess you've seen photos
of items I've welded and then blasted and plated. They look about the same before and after plating, the plating just
keeps them from rusting. The plating gets done in a 2-gallon bucket -- very little floor space. The plating supplies
are on the same cart as the little blast cabinet.
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View entire thread: Drilling Grade 8 bolts
Posted by Ignoramus18807 on Wed Jul 19, 2006 2:16 AM Post subject: Re: Drilling Grade 8 bolts
On Tue, 18 Jul 2006 14:47:54 -0500, Don Foreman <dforeman@NOSPAMgoldengate.net> wrote: [quote:96f528c524]On Tue,
18 Jul 2006 17:49:43 GMT, Ignoramus18807 ignoramus18807@NOSPAM.18807.invalid> wrote: On Tue, 18 Jul 2006 12:43:10
-0500, Don Foreman <dforeman@NOSPAMgoldengate.net> wrote: On Tue, 18 Jul 2006 04:06:11 GMT, Ignoramus18860
ignoramus18860@NOSPAM.18860.invalid> wrote: On Sat, 15 Jul 2006 02:07:29 GMT, Ignoramus19864
<ignoramus19864@NOSPAM.19864.invalid> wrote: Are grade 8 bolts drillable? I just realized that bolts that I bought
from McMaster this afternoon for making fittings are grade 8, high strength, and am a little worried that perhaps they
are going to be difficult to drill (lengthwise). Just drilled two bolts, made two 1 3/4" or so holes of about
1/8" ID. It was quite easy. I had to resharpen the drill once and used cutting fluid. No big deal at all. The
homemade "fittings" seem to fit the adapters on the torch. I then welded little 1/4" NPT pipe nipples to
the bolts. That again reminded me why TIG is a good thing. http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/12-Plasma-Torch/
torch-fitting-1.jpg http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/12-Plasma-Torch/torch-fitting-2.jpg Good job, Ig! Wow Don,
thank you. It is not as good as it looks (the NPT pipe is not exactly coaxial with bolt, not too bad but nothing to brag
about), but thank you anyway for the compliment, coming from you etc. The consistent appearance of the TIG weld is not
how I made it originally, it was not so good, but then I "re-melted" the weld and it all flowed around nicely.
Whatever works! TIG is nice that way, allows fixing boo-boos. [/quote:96f528c524] Definitely. [quote:96f528c524]Now
that you're "getting there" with TIG and since you already have air, you might think about finding a
gritblasting box for $9.95 or something. A couple of minutes in the box o' glass beads does wonders for appearance.
Also good prep for painting or plating. The import siphon guns that come with import boxes (ala HF) are utter junk, but
the S-25 siphon gun from www.tptools.com works great as long as the air is reasonably dry -- as from your drier. Don,
is that what people call "blast cabinets"? I am sorry, I looked at that website and there is a few things and
I was not sure which one is right. i Yes. Here's a better link to the S-25 gun itself: http://tinyurl.com/ku7mm It
would be easy enough to build a box out of plywood or sheetmetal with a plastic lid. TP Tools sells plans but I don't
think you'd need any plans. Further, you can probably buy a box for less than the materials required to make one.
They're just boxes with a transparent lid or door you can see thru, perhaps a shaped bottom that funnels the media a
bit, a couple of arm holes with long rubber gloves and a filtered exhaust port. Northern Tool has the gloves. (They
also have boxes, as does HF, with really crappy siphon guns) My exhaust port goes to a shop vac with a HEPA filter in
it. A light inside is nice. I had a dentist that made a box for his microblaster (like an airbrush, for working on
crowns) out of a plastic wastebasket! [/quote:96f528c524] Don, my problem is that I do not visualize how a blast
cabinet works. Do the beads stay in the cabinet somehow and recirculate? I will read up some more, but I already tried
finding some good description on how it works (and did not find much). I definitely do not have enough space for a blast
cabinet in regular size. My previous thoughts (which are possibly wrong) centered around some tumbler type thing, for
which I already have most components like DC gear motor etc. i
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View entire thread: Drilling Grade 8 bolts
Posted by Don Foreman on Tue Jul 18, 2006 8:47 PM Post subject: Re: Drilling Grade 8 bolts
On Tue, 18 Jul 2006 17:49:43 GMT, Ignoramus18807 <ignoramus18807@NOSPAM.18807.invalid> wrote:
[quote:7247cd2588]On Tue, 18 Jul 2006 12:43:10 -0500, Don Foreman <dforeman@NOSPAMgoldengate.net> wrote: On Tue,
18 Jul 2006 04:06:11 GMT, Ignoramus18860 ignoramus18860@NOSPAM.18860.invalid> wrote: On Sat, 15 Jul 2006 02:07:29
GMT, Ignoramus19864 <ignoramus19864@NOSPAM.19864.invalid> wrote: Are grade 8 bolts drillable? I just realized that
bolts that I bought from McMaster this afternoon for making fittings are grade 8, high strength, and am a little worried
that perhaps they are going to be difficult to drill (lengthwise). Just drilled two bolts, made two 1 3/4" or so
holes of about 1/8" ID. It was quite easy. I had to resharpen the drill once and used cutting fluid. No big deal at
all. The homemade "fittings" seem to fit the adapters on the torch. I then welded little 1/4" NPT pipe
nipples to the bolts. That again reminded me why TIG is a good thing. http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/12-
Plasma-Torch/torch-fitting-1.jpg http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Welding/12-Plasma-Torch/torch-fitting-2.jpg Good job,
Ig! Wow Don, thank you. It is not as good as it looks (the NPT pipe is not exactly coaxial with bolt, not too bad but
nothing to brag about), but thank you anyway for the compliment, coming from you etc. The consistent appearance of the
TIG weld is not how I made it originally, it was not so good, but then I "re-melted" the weld and it all
flowed around nicely. [/quote:7247cd2588] Whatever works! TIG is nice that way, allows fixing boo-boos.
[quote:7247cd2588] Now that you're "getting there" with TIG and since you already have air, you might think
about finding a gritblasting box for $9.95 or something. A couple of minutes in the box o' glass beads does wonders
for appearance. Also good prep for painting or plating. The import siphon guns that come with import boxes (ala HF)
are utter junk, but the S-25 siphon gun from www.tptools.com works great as long as the air is reasonably dry -- as from
your drier. Don, is that what people call "blast cabinets"? I am sorry, I looked at that website and there is
a few things and I was not sure which one is right. i Yes.[/quote:7247cd2588] Here's a better link to the S-25 gun
itself: http://tinyurl.com/ku7mm It would be easy enough to build a box out of plywood or sheetmetal with a plastic
lid. TP Tools sells plans but I don't think you'd need any plans. Further, you can probably buy a box for less than
the materials required to make one. They're just boxes with a transparent lid or door you can see thru, perhaps a
shaped bottom that funnels the media a bit, a couple of arm holes with long rubber gloves and a filtered exhaust port.
Northern Tool has the gloves. (They also have boxes, as does HF, with really crappy siphon guns) My exhaust port
goes to a shop vac with a HEPA filter in it. A light inside is nice. I had a dentist that made a box for his
microblaster (like an airbrush, for working on crowns) out of a plastic wastebasket!
back to top
View entire thread: accurate measuring for bracelets and stiffness problem
Posted by Anonymous on Mon Oct 30, 2006 5:13 PM Post subject: Re: accurate measuring for bracelets and stiffness problem
Thanks, Marilee. Great advice. Libbi Marilee J. Layman wrote: [quote:d602cdcf60]On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 17:48:36 GMT,
libbibosworth@gmail.com wrote: Hi, Ihave two questions. You may respond off-post to libbi@fonicdesign.com (preferable
for me if easy for you). 1. I realize every woman's wrist is a different size, but I often see bracelets, etcs for
sale that are already made using a toggle clasp. It is my preferred way of making a bracelet. I have tried stretch
but don't like it for various reasons. I'm horrible at math so I'm really bad at measuring perfectly. You should only
sell stretch bracelets if you tell people they won't last long. If you're selling to the public in person, you should
have different sizes available. If you're selling on the website, you can keep partially-made bracelets to finish to
size. My question: Is there a 'standard' size for bracelets to make for sale? I plan to offer custom sizes as well,
but would like to have some all ready to go. I thought it was seven inches *including* the clasp. Am I wrong? A lot
of women can't wear a 7" bracelet. Your choice as to what you make. 2. I tend to get alot of stiffness with my
wire. Using beadalon 19 strand and 49 strand for the heavier. Leaving about 1/8th inch or a little more wire atthe
loop to the toggle clasp. What determines the stiffness of the bracelet. I'd like to get that stretchy bracelet feel
but using wire. Thanks. Beadalon isn't wire, it's cable. I use Softflex, I think it's better. If it's stiff, it's
because you're making the bracelet too tight. If you use all larger beads, for example, there's no flex. You need to
make sure you use seed beads to separate the larger beads and that will give you more flex. You'll get more answers at
rec.crafts.beads. -- Marilee J. Layman http://mjlayman.livejournal.com/[/quote:d602cdcf60]
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View entire thread: accurate measuring for bracelets and stiffness problem
Posted by Marilee J. Layman on Mon Oct 30, 2006 1:32 AM Post subject: Re: accurate measuring for bracelets and stiffness problem
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 17:48:36 GMT, libbibosworth@gmail.com wrote: [quote:e02679dd42]Hi, Ihave two questions. You may
respond off-post to libbi@fonicdesign.com (preferable for me if easy for you). 1. I realize every woman's wrist is a
different size, but I often see bracelets, etcs for sale that are already made using a toggle clasp. It is my
preferred way of making a bracelet. I have tried stretch but don't like it for various reasons. I'm horrible at math
so I'm really bad at measuring perfectly. [/quote:e02679dd42] You should only sell stretch bracelets if you tell people
they won't last long. If you're selling to the public in person, you should have different sizes available. If you're
selling on the website, you can keep partially-made bracelets to finish to size. [quote:e02679dd42]My question: Is
there a 'standard' size for bracelets to make for sale? I plan to offer custom sizes as well, but would like to have
some all ready to go. I thought it was seven inches *including* the clasp. Am I wrong? [/quote:e02679dd42] A lot of
women can't wear a 7" bracelet. Your choice as to what you make. [quote:e02679dd42]2. I tend to get alot of
stiffness with my wire. Using beadalon 19 strand and 49 strand for the heavier. Leaving about 1/8th inch or a little
more wire atthe loop to the toggle clasp. What determines the stiffness of the bracelet. I'd like to get that stretchy
bracelet feel but using wire. Thanks. [/quote:e02679dd42] Beadalon isn't wire, it's cable. I use Softflex, I think
it's better. If it's stiff, it's because you're making the bracelet too tight. If you use all larger beads, for
example, there's no flex. You need to make sure you use seed beads to separate the larger beads and that will give you
more flex. You'll get more answers at rec.crafts.beads. -- Marilee J. Layman http://mjlayman.livejournal.com/
back to top
View entire thread: Why all the fuss about white gold?
Posted by Frosty on Sun Oct 15, 2006 8:45 PM Post subject: Re: Why all the fuss about white gold?
I downloaded new messages from rec.crafts.jewelry on Sun, 15 Oct 2006 06:19:56 GMT, and "Peter W.. Rowe,"
<rec.crafts.jewelry@earthlink.net> vomited forth this bit of wisdom : [quote:d7c2b48754]On Sat, 14 Oct 2006
22:55:16 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry Frosty clause39@yahoo.com> wrote: I notice a lot of fuss on Orchid about
(nickel alloyed) white gold and the assumption that it's so difficult to work with, i.e., cracking and stuff. I have no
problem with it whatsoever. I wonder what all the brew-ha-ha is all about? Frosty A lot of this depends on just which
alloy you're trying to work with, and in what karat. The longtime "standard" 14K white gold, such as most
standard die struck findings are made of, isn't so bad to work with. But it's color isn't optimal either. White golds
vary from those with somewhat "softer" or warmer colors (ie, they're noticeably yellow tinged) to those that
are icy white, as white as the platinum group metals. Some of the original white gold alloys, often found in antique
items from the early part of the 20th century are pretty white. But if you've ever worked on these things, you know
that metal is rather hard, and quite brittle sometimes. And many times, these are 14K. In general, the 18K white
golds, if very white, are even worse. it's not that they cannot be worked, it's just that they're temperamental and
sometimes unpredictable. Annealing technique is critical to whether it's reasonably soft. Do it just a little wrong,
and you can cause fracturing, or even increase the hardness. And Casting these alloys in simpler equipment (torch melt,
for example) is difficult in terms of getting consist ant castings without porosity problems (something that's variable
in perception, since some goldsmiths simply aren't as pickly about porosity, often due to preferences for finishes on
the jewelry that don't show it as much, or simply that they've never worked with white gold that doesn't do that, so
they take it for granted) For some time, in our shop, we tried multiple variations of the super white, or at least
white enough so as to not need rhodium, 18K white golds. They all had problems somewhere. Few could be cast
consistently, using an electric melt, graphite crucible furnace or a torch to melt, with vacuum casting. Just too high
an incidence of castings with too much porosity. And the castings that weren't too porous, or those which we'd manage
to repair sufficiently via lots of burnishing and/or laser welding, were still problems when it came to setting the
stones. A constant stream of nasty language from the diamond setters, due to just plain hard metal, hard enough to make
raising beads and bright cutting difficult, or metal that just didn't want to move even with pretty aggressive
hammering. And just when they'd think they about had a ring all set, they'd find one or two beads cracking off. That,
at least, we could fix with the laser, but still... We finally gave up on the very white alloys. We're now using a
"soft" white gold alloy from Stuller. Still occasional problems with porosity, but not so amazingly bad all
the time, and the castings, once annealed, can be set without too much trouble. The downside is that the stuff very
much does need an rhodium finish when done, if you want the color to be truly white, as most of our clients want it.
And even this alloy isn't totally predictable. Every now and then we find odd inclusions in the metal. Whiter and
harder than the gold, but more aggressively attacked by acid. Not magnetic. Slightly crumbly when cut with a diamond
grinding point (the stuff tends to dull a bur). Not sure what it is. Either some unalloyed component that Stuller
didn't fully melt, or nickel carbides forming from the crucible (not sure about that, but someone mentioned the
possibility once...) or? Annoying. Usually found in chunks coming to the surface which, by the time I've ground out
the whole offending inclusion, leaves a 2-3 mm wide cavity in the ring I then have to fill in with the laser. So if you
have no trouble with nickel white golds, thank your lucky stars that you happen to be working with one of the more
tractable versions of the alloy. And if you'd like some physical exercise, obtain some of any of the superwhite 18K
alloys. Cast an ingot, roll and draw down to fine wire. Just see how hard you have to work to do that, compared with
yellow golds... Then melt the wire down into an ingot again, and repeat. See if you can get it to work the same way,
twice or three times in a row. Or, for real fun, use some of that wire to fabricate a nice cluster prong head for a
half dozen stones or so, and put a shank on it. Polish up, feel proud, and THEN try to set the damn thing with emeralds
or something else a bit brittle. See how much that damn springy wire makes it hard to get stones tight without breaking
them. Have fun. Peter [/quote:d7c2b48754] Yikes!! Well, I'll have to pass thanx anyway. Last year I made a platinum
wedding band for my wife. She said she wished her engagement ring was platinum too. I rhodium plated her 14KY engagement
ring. That was 9 months ago. It's still nice and white. Frosty (Nobody here has ever asked what this following bit of
Latin translates to, but I'll tell you now anyway: "Let's all wear mood rings!") -- Anulos qui animum
ostendunt omnes gestemus!
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View entire thread: Why all the fuss about white gold?
Posted by Peter W.. Rowe, on Sun Oct 15, 2006 7:19 AM Post subject: Re: Why all the fuss about white gold?
On Sat, 14 Oct 2006 22:55:16 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry Frosty <clause39@yahoo.com> wrote: [quote:ca99030bc6]I
notice a lot of fuss on Orchid about (nickel alloyed) white gold and the assumption that it's so difficult to work with,
i.e., cracking and stuff. I have no problem with it whatsoever. I wonder what all the brew-ha-ha is all about? Frosty
[/quote:ca99030bc6] A lot of this depends on just which alloy you're trying to work with, and in what karat. The
longtime "standard" 14K white gold, such as most standard die struck findings are made of, isn't so bad to
work with. But it's color isn't optimal either. White golds vary from those with somewhat "softer" or warmer
colors (ie, they're noticably yellow tinged) to those that are icy white, as white as the platinum group metals. Some
of the original white gold alloys, often found in antique items from the early part of the 20th century are pretty
white. But if you've ever worked on these things, you know that metal is rather hard, and quite brittle sometimes. And
many times, these are 14K. In general, the 18K white golds, if very white, are even worse. it's not that they cannot
be worked, it's just that they're tempermental and sometimes unpredictable. Annealing technique is critical to whether
it's reasonably soft. Do it just a little wrong, and you can cause fracturing, or even increase the hardness. And
Casting these alloys in simpler equipment (torch melt, for example) is difficult in terms of getting consistant
castings without porosity problems (something that's variable in perception, since some goldsmiths simply aren't as
pickly about porosity, often due to preferences for finishes on the jewelry that don't show it as much, or simply that
they've never worked with white gold that doesn't do that, so they take it for granted) For some time, in our shop, we
tried multiple variations of the super white, or at least white enough so as to not need rhodium, 18K white golds. They
all had problems somewhere. Few could be cast consistently, using an electric melt, graphite crucible furnace or a
torch to melt, with vacuum casting. Just too high an incidence of castings with too much porosity. And the castings
that weren't too porous, or those which we'd manage to repair sufficiently via lots of burnishing and/or laser welding,
were still problems when it came to setting the stones. A constant stream of nasty language from the diamond setters,
due to just plain hard metal, hard enough to make raising beads and bright cutting difficult, or metal that just didn't
want to move even with pretty aggressive hammering. And just when they'd think they about had a ring all set, they'd
find one or two beads cracking off. That, at least, we could fix with the laser, but still... We finally gave up on
the very white alloys. We're now using a "soft" white gold alloy from Stuller. Still occasional problems
with porosity, but not so amazingly bad all the time, and the castings, once annealed, can be set without too much
trouble. The downside is that the stuff very much does need an rhodium finish when done, if you want the color to be
truly white, as most of our clients want it. And even this alloy isn't totally predictable. Every now and then we find
odd inclusions in the metal. Whiter and harder than the gold, but more aggresively attacked by acid. Not magnetic.
Slightly crumbly when cut with a diamond grinding point (the stuff tends to dull a bur). Not sure what it is. Either
some unalloyed componant that Stuller didn't fully melt, or nickle carbides forming from the crucible (not sure about
that, but someone mentioned the possibility once...) or? Annoying. Usually found in chunks coming to the surface
which, by the time I've ground out the whole offending inclusion, leaves a 2-3 mm wide cavity in the ring I then have to
fill in with the laser. So if you have no trouble with nickel white golds, thank your lucky stars that you happen to
be working with one of the more tractable versions of the alloy. And if you'd like some physical exercise, obtain some
of any of the superwhite 18K alloys. Cast an ingot, roll and draw down to fine wire. Just see how hard you have to
work to do that, compared with yellow golds... Then melt the wire down into an ingot again, and repeat. See if you can
get it to work the same way, twice or three times in a row. Or, for real fun, use some of that wire to fabricate a
nice cluster prong head for a half dozen stones or so, and put a shank on it. Polish up, feel proud, and THEN try to
set the damn thing with emeralds or something else a bit brittle. See how much that damn springy wire makes it hard to
get stones tight without breaking them. Have fun. Peter
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View entire thread: I just had a site set up for my earrings
Posted by Don T on Mon Jul 10, 2006 6:17 AM Post subject: Re: I just had a site set up for my earrings
I got all the pages -after being insulted about my browser "not" being firefox- and nary a price to be seen
anywhere. It didn't create any burning desire to return either. Just another blah site. -- Don Thompson There is
nothing more frightening than active ignorance. ~Goethe It is a worthy thing to fight for one's freedom; it is
another sight finer to fight for another man's. ~Mark Twain "Peter W.. Rowe,"
<rec.crafts.jewelry@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:vch3b2dimdr95s32acdmkrtdnu794jh6ng@4ax.com...
[quote:984daea7d2]On Sun, 09 Jul 2006 20:10:19 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry gamenutt@comcast.net wrote: I just had a
site set up for my earrings so wanted to know what ppl thought of them..get some feedback ya know! Heres the link:
http://www.thevickiespot.com thx in advance :) Well, to start with, you may wish to use a different hosting service.
I managed, when I first clicked your link, to load the page, and see the first two pages of designs. Then the site
stopped sending anything. I closed my browser and tried again. No luck. Tried again this time with internet explorer
instead of firefox. Still, no response from your site's hosting server. couldn't connect. Now, maybe it's my own ISP
(comcast) holding things up, but I'll bet, since other sites loaded quickly enough, that your hosting service has too
low a bandwidth. The pages which did load also seemed somewhat less that speedy in doing so. That could be either the
size of your files, or again, your hosting service. About the only other thing I had time to notice was that if you're
trying to sell things, you might make things like price more visible. Never saw a price listed next to any of the
designs, even when clicked to bring up more detail. So far, though I didn't see more than the first few pages and could
be wrong, all I saw was a showcase site, not an e-commerce one. If you've got an e-commerce site in mind(you want to
sell your earrings, not just show them), then you may wish to include things like the price, and shopping cart icons
easily available along with the images. A whole seperate page for a price list might have been there (didn't get that
far into the site), but that's making people work harder to buy your work. As to the earrings, I won't comment too
much. Nice colors, and I'm sure they'll sell well, if your prices are reasonable and you can market them successfully..
Personally, I'm not so drawn to whole lines of earrings that basically only string various interesting beads on wire.
But that's just me. I'm a jeweler who works metal to a greater degree than just bending wire around, so I've got a bit
of a bias about the simpler methods your work requires. That doesn't, of course, invalidate your work, and I'm sure it
will sell OK. I just can't say I'm terribly excited or inspired... And I'm sure you already know that with this level
of technology in your work, you've got a LOT of competition from commercial producers, as well as a lot of hobbyists and
just slightly more than hobbyist level jewelers. If you can elevate the technical and aesthetic sophistication of your
work a bit, you could do more to create a line of work that would have some more in the way of a personal identity
(yours), rather than being just one more of a large pack of jewelry producers buying fun and inexpensive glass or
semiprecious beads, and hanging them, in some form or another, from pretty commercial looking plain ear wires... Again,
the problem with doing this is simply that you've got so very much competition, from beginner level craftspeople, all
the way to the mass manufacturers in asia producing costume level jewelry in very large quantities for pennies per
earring pair. If you can compete with these folks, my hats off to ya. Otherwise, I'd suggest finding a way to make
your work more unique, so it stands out from the crowd. Usually this means you'll have to make more of the work than
just the wires connecting commercially purchased parts, and it may require you to do a bit more metalsmithing too... My
two cents. Use it if useful to you. Otherwise, ignore... :-) Peter Rowe[/quote:984daea7d2]
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