View entire thread: new to group
Posted by Judy P on Sun Oct 08, 2006 3:38 AM Post subject: Re: new to group
Hi Pauline, I have a sweater machine too..Haven't made any thing on it yet.. What I have tried, has ended up on the
floor... I hand knit and crochet.. judy
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View entire thread: new to group
Posted by Russ Gordon on Mon Oct 09, 2006 1:13 AM Post subject: Re: new to group
Leah From a Knitting Newbe too, I certainly appreciated your "ultra" assistance with your response to
Pauline. However, I have two questions that I have searched everywhere for. I purchased an "almost new"
machine and am curious regarding needles, about every fifth needle is sorta stiff, or, not as loose as the rest;
although this does not seem to affect movement of the carriage. Nothing in the manual mentions this, which makes me
wonder if it is normal to others. Should all the needles move in the same smoothness? A circle of Wax was included, and
directions show where to apply it. But, I don't know how to get the wax where the needles go into and through the KP.
The hunk of wax is too large to rub it into the small canal. I've sort of shaved it into the particular areas of
concern. Thanks for any assistance. "Leah" <fenton@nowayamigivingitout.com> wrote in message
news:la5ii2hs2kacrvv4bn2dcvpj7dm17nabqo@4ax.com... [quote:2efb3beaca]On Sat, 7 Oct 2006 22:38:28 -0400, judyp2@webtv.net
(Judy P) wrote: Hi Pauline, I have a sweater machine too..Haven't made any thing on it yet.. What I have tried, has
ended up on the floor... I hand knit and crochet.. Judy It sounds to me like you might be in too much of a hurry when
using your machine. I've had an ISM for over 10 years, and the USM carriage for 3-4 years now. New knitters I've
helped with their ISM/USM have dropped work most often because they were in too much of a hurry to get the row done and
end up with dropped stitches because pushing the carriage too fast makes needles jump out of alignment ahead of it, so
they don't knit right, and the work can drop as a result. If your work drops really early after you cast on, it could
be that your hem didn't drop down properly after the first row, causing the knitting to bunch up and then drop. Try
tugging very gently on the hem after you knit the first row to make sure it's hanging freely under the machine,
especially if you did a closed edge cast on, because R1 tends to be quite tight when doing an E wrap. Another problem
Bond newbies have is that they either pull the yarn up too tight at the beginning of the row or not tight enough, so
side edge stitches don't knit right and can drop. You want it snug, but don't yank the yarn too hard. Another issue
that Bond claims with their new higher tech plastic is that the USM no longer needs to be waxed for use. I don't know
if they've even put that into their instructions, but as a seasoned ISM user, I can tell you that when trying out my USM
KP and carriage, I found that it definitely needed to be waxed. Get an unscented 100% paraffin white wax candle. It
should be unscented because essential oils used to scent them can stain your yarn, same with a dyes to make a colored
candle. You can find the little white unscented tea lights in almost any store. Pull it out of the metal tray and wax
the area where the needles go into and through the KP. If your carriage is jamming on the retaining bar rail at the
front, wax those joints before beginning each large project (say after each sweater). I also wax the back of the
machine where the carriage hooks in on the top of the joints and at the backs of the joints to help the carriage slide
more freely. With continued use, your bed and carriage will loosen up a little bit and be overall easier to use, but if
you find it getting stiff to work again (and noisier than you remembered it being), try waxing it again, especially if
you let the machine sit a couple of months between projects. Another issue new Bonders have is they are either holding
the carriage to the bed too tightly or not tightly enough. You want the carriage to glide freely, but not bounce. It's
also very important to make sure there is no tension on the yarn. Pull out enough yarn to complete your carriage pass,
and if you run out, stop the carriage and pull out enough. I usually pull out enough for 2 rows, then repeat. Some
Bonders use a fishing tool called a line stripper to quickly pull lengths of yarn for knitting out and have it shot into
a basket before working, so they don't have to stop and pull out more yarn while knitting. If you try and use it
straight out of a center pull skein, it results in tight rows, which can result in dropped work. If you are dropping
stitches on the same 1-2 needles, then it's quite possible that in man handling your machine, you bent one or more
needles, so it's not knitting properly, and the work will drop in approximately the same place consistently, so check
for bent needles if you're dropping in the same area. Also, check your hem. If you don't have a ravel cord and are
just using the thin elastic that comes with the machine, you might have nicked your hem, which can cause dropped
stitches, as can outright cutting through it. Also check to make sure your weights are distributed evenly in the hem.
If the hem leans down on one side, it can cause stitches to lift on the other side of the bed and eventually fall off.
Also, and I've done this myself, check the instructions to see you are putting the hem on right. Until I got used to
it, I dropped my work, because the hem wasn't hung on the machine right. For more hints and tips using the ISM/USM, you
can visit Steph Thornton's page here: http://www.stephthornton.co.uk/knitting/bond/list/listhint.htm It has a lot of
goofy patterns offered for free (and one quite annoying poster who is obsessed with using multiple dots instead of
proper punctuation), but there is also a ton of helpful hints and tips, like using a crochet hook to "latch
up" the rib instead of that really annoying hooked "latchet" tool. I use a G or H hook to do up worsted
weight rib, I or J for bulky, and E or F for baby/sport/DK. Another terrific site for Bond techniques and tools you can
make yourself is found at Heidi's Knitting Room, just don't let the glaring RED background get to you LOL:
http://www.heidisknittingroom.ourfamily.com/ I hope that helps, because once you get used to your machine, it really
cuts down on the boring stocking stitch sections of knitting. FWIW, I made 3 adult hats very slowly with my USM carriage
before it loosened up, meaning the sharp edges of the plastic started to wear down from use so the carriage moves more
smoothly across the bed, so working the back of an adult sweater should do it, or do several experimental swatches 50
stitches by 50 rows with stripes, lace, fair isle, intarsia, and cables, which can be made into pillows or sewn together
into an afghan, which might be easier for you to handle than the frustration of dropping half of the back of an adult
sweater off the machine. Leah[/quote:2efb3beaca]
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View entire thread: new to group
Posted by Leah on Sun Oct 08, 2006 4:49 PM Post subject: Re: new to group
On Sat, 7 Oct 2006 22:38:28 -0400, judyp2@webtv.net (Judy P) wrote: [quote:a13b0cf615]Hi Pauline, I have a sweater
machine too..Haven't made any thing on it yet.. What I have tried, has ended up on the floor... I hand knit and
crochet.. [/quote:a13b0cf615] Judy It sounds to me like you might be in too much of a hurry when using your machine.
I've had an ISM for over 10 years, and the USM carriage for 3-4 years now. New knitters I've helped with their ISM/USM
have dropped work most often because they were in too much of a hurry to get the row done and end up with dropped
stitches because pushing the carriage too fast makes needles jump out of alignment ahead of it, so they don't knit
right, and the work can drop as a result. If your work drops really early after you cast on, it could be that your hem
didn't drop down properly after the first row, causing the knitting to bunch up and then drop. Try tugging very gently
on the hem after you knit the first row to make sure it's hanging freely under the machine, especially if you did a
closed edge cast on, because R1 tends to be quite tight when doing an E wrap. Another problem Bond newbies have is
that they either pull the yarn up too tight at the beginning of the row or not tight enough, so side edge stitches don't
knit right and can drop. You want it snug, but don't yank the yarn too hard. Another issue that Bond claims with
their new higher tech plastic is that the USM no longer needs to be waxed for use. I don't know if they've even put
that into their instructions, but as a seasoned ISM user, I can tell you that when trying out my USM KP and carriage, I
found that it definitely needed to be waxed. Get an unscented 100% paraffin white wax candle. It should be unscented
because essential oils used to scent them can stain your yarn, same with a dyes to make a colored candle. You can find
the little white unscented tea lights in almost any store. Pull it out of the metal tray and wax the area where the
needles go into and through the KP. If your carriage is jamming on the retaining bar rail at the front, wax those
joints before beginning each large project (say after each sweater). I also wax the back of the machine where the
carriage hooks in on the top of the joints and at the backs of the joints to help the carriage slide more freely. With
continued use, your bed and carriage will loosen up a little bit and be overall easier to use, but if you find it
getting stiff to work again (and noisier than you remembered it being), try waxing it again, especially if you let the
machine sit a couple of months between projects. Another issue new Bonders have is they are either holding the
carriage to the bed too tightly or not tightly enough. You want the carriage to glide freely, but not bounce. It's
also very important to make sure there is no tension on the yarn. Pull out enough yarn to complete your carriage pass,
and if you run out, stop the carriage and pull out enough. I usually pull out enough for 2 rows, then repeat. Some
Bonders use a fishing tool called a line stripper to quickly pull lengths of yarn for knitting out and have it shot into
a basket before working, so they don't have to stop and pull out more yarn while knitting. If you try and use it
straight out of a center pull skein, it results in tight rows, which can result in dropped work. If you are dropping
stitches on the same 1-2 needles, then it's quite possible that in man handling your machine, you bent one or more
needles, so it's not knitting properly, and the work will drop in approximately the same place consistently, so check
for bent needles if you're dropping in the same area. Also, check your hem. If you don't have a ravel cord and are
just using the thin elastic that comes with the machine, you might have nicked your hem, which can cause dropped
stitches, as can outright cutting through it. Also check to make sure your weights are distributed evenly in the hem.
If the hem leans down on one side, it can cause stitches to lift on the other side of the bed and eventually fall off.
Also, and I've done this myself, check the instructions to see you are putting the hem on right. Until I got used to
it, I dropped my work, because the hem wasn't hung on the machine right. For more hints and tips using the ISM/USM,
you can visit Steph Thornton's page here: http://www.stephthornton.co.uk/knitting/bond/list/listhint.htm It has a
lot of goofy patterns offered for free (and one quite annoying poster who is obsessed with using multiple dots instead
of proper punctuation), but there is also a ton of helpful hints and tips, like using a crochet hook to "latch
up" the rib instead of that really annoying hooked "latchet" tool. I use a G or H hook to do up worsted
weight rib, I or J for bulky, and E or F for baby/sport/DK. Another terrific site for Bond techniques and tools you
can make yourself is found at Heidi's Knitting Room, just don't let the glaring RED background get to you LOL:
http://www.heidisknittingroom.ourfamily.com/ I hope that helps, because once you get used to your machine, it really
cuts down on the boring stocking stitch sections of knitting. FWIW, I made 3 adult hats very slowly with my USM carriage
before it loosened up, meaning the sharp edges of the plastic started to wear down from use so the carriage moves more
smoothly across the bed, so working the back of an adult sweater should do it, or do several experimental swatches 50
stitches by 50 rows with stripes, lace, fair isle, intarsia, and cables, which can be made into pillows or sewn together
into an afghan, which might be easier for you to handle than the frustration of dropping half of the back of an adult
sweater off the machine. Leah
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View entire thread: OT - sorta maybe
Posted by Mirjam Bruck-Cohen on Wed Oct 25, 2006 5:11 AM Post subject: Re: OT - sorta maybe
It wil look a bit like the seam on Jeans pants ,,,, it was also once called French seam mirjam
[quote:f3a83b7303]Well, I just looked up "felled seam" and now I'm confused -- but then, you didn't say it is
a felled seam, just that it looks like one, so I guess I don't really need to understand it. You overlap the edges by
half an inch , sew down the visible edge, then turn the whole thing over (or inside out) and sew down the other edge --
is that right? Doesn't it get too bulky on the thumb? Olwyn Mary wrote: Jackie wrote: How well would this work to
create felted mittens? How hard is the felted fabric to cut and sew? Thanks -- Jackie Dead easy!! Finer weight
sweaters come out a medium felt, and chunky comes out very thick - great for slippers. Provided you have felted
(fulled) them as far as they will go, they will not ravel. I stitch them with ordinary cotton sewing thread, which
usually buries itself right into the fabric. Small items I sew by hand with big stitches, larger ones can take a long
stith on the machine. To seam them I overlap the edges about half an inch and sew both edges - one on each side so it
looks like a felled seam. You can decorate them by cutting out shapes in contrasting thinner felt and hand sewing them
on, I put flowers on my dd and dgd vests, and saved a green sweater to use just for leaves and stems. By the way, they
are also machine washable and dryable. Have fun! Olwyn Mary in New Orleans -- Posted via a free Usenet account from
http://www.teranews.com [/quote:f3a83b7303]
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View entire thread: OT - sorta maybe
Posted by Jackie on Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:11 AM Post subject: Re: OT - sorta maybe
Well, I just looked up "felled seam" and now I'm confused -- but then, you didn't say it is a felled seam,
just that it looks like one, so I guess I don't really need to understand it. You overlap the edges by half an inch ,
sew down the visible edge, then turn the whole thing over (or inside out) and sew down the other edge -- is that right?
Doesn't it get too bulky on the thumb? Olwyn Mary wrote: [quote:8ba0c12466]Jackie wrote: How well would this work to
create felted mittens? How hard is the felted fabric to cut and sew? Thanks -- Jackie Dead easy!! Finer weight
sweaters come out a medium felt, and chunky comes out very thick - great for slippers. Provided you have felted
(fulled) them as far as they will go, they will not ravel. I stitch them with ordinary cotton sewing thread, which
usually buries itself right into the fabric. Small items I sew by hand with big stitches, larger ones can take a long
stith on the machine. To seam them I overlap the edges about half an inch and sew both edges - one on each side so it
looks like a felled seam. You can decorate them by cutting out shapes in contrasting thinner felt and hand sewing them
on, I put flowers on my dd and dgd vests, and saved a green sweater to use just for leaves and stems. By the way, they
are also machine washable and dryable. Have fun! Olwyn Mary in New Orleans -- Posted via a free Usenet account from
http://www.teranews.com[/quote:8ba0c12466]
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View entire thread: OT - sorta maybe
Posted by Jackie on Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:07 AM Post subject: Re: OT - sorta maybe
Thanks for the encouragement -- maybe I'll give them a try. I don't know what a felled seam is, but I think I
understand the process you describe. I'm not planning to try it right away, but when I do I'll let you know how they
come out. Thanks! Olwyn Mary wrote: [quote:d06abf5095]Jackie wrote: How well would this work to create felted
mittens? How hard is the felted fabric to cut and sew? Thanks -- Jackie Dead easy!! Finer weight sweaters come out a
medium felt, and chunky comes out very thick - great for slippers. Provided you have felted (fulled) them as far as
they will go, they will not ravel. I stitch them with ordinary cotton sewing thread, which usually buries itself right
into the fabric. Small items I sew by hand with big stitches, larger ones can take a long stith on the machine. To
seam them I overlap the edges about half an inch and sew both edges - one on each side so it looks like a felled seam.
You can decorate them by cutting out shapes in contrasting thinner felt and hand sewing them on, I put flowers on my dd
and dgd vests, and saved a green sweater to use just for leaves and stems. By the way, they are also machine washable
and dryable. Have fun! Olwyn Mary in New Orleans -- Posted via a free Usenet account from
http://www.teranews.com[/quote:d06abf5095]
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View entire thread: OT - sorta maybe
Posted by Olwyn Mary on Sun Oct 22, 2006 4:43 AM Post subject: Re: OT - sorta maybe
Jackie wrote: [quote:904c00a47d]How well would this work to create felted mittens? How hard is the felted fabric to cut
and sew? Thanks -- Jackie [/quote:904c00a47d] Dead easy!! Finer weight sweaters come out a medium felt, and chunky
comes out very thick - great for slippers. Provided you have felted (fulled) them as far as they will go, they will
not ravel. I stitch them with ordinary cotton sewing thread, which usually buries itself right into the fabric.
Small items I sew by hand with big stitches, larger ones can take a long stith on the machine. To seam them I overlap
the edges about half an inch and sew both edges - one on each side so it looks like a felled seam. You can decorate
them by cutting out shapes in contrasting thinner felt and hand sewing them on, I put flowers on my dd and dgd vests,
and saved a green sweater to use just for leaves and stems. By the way, they are also machine washable and dryable.
Have fun! Olwyn Mary in New Orleans -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
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View entire thread: 3+1 and Finished!
Posted by joan8904 in Bellevue Nebr on Tue Aug 15, 2006 1:19 PM Post subject: Re: 3+1 and Finished!
The embroidered saying were purchased that way. I can't remember the name of the company, but they sell fabric with the
sayings already embossed. But there's not reason you couldn't duplicate the look with embroidery. joan p.s. Thanx to
everyone for the kind comments. Susan Laity Price wrote: [quote:6b0a35878b]Just looked at all the quilts on the web
site. You have been busy! They are all lovely. I was especially interested in the blue and white quilt with the machine
embroidered sayings. I just upgraded my embroidery machine and am looking for ways to use it with my quilting. Was the
pattern from a book (if so please share the title) or your own ideas? Susan On 14 Aug 2006 07:20:41 -0700,
"joan8904 in Bellevue Nebraska" joan8904@aol.com> wrote:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/2066231480062000453ocAFLa Three baby quilts, a queen-sized quilt and a sweater for
my DGD! joan p.s. in Bellevue Nebraska and having the MOST BEAUTIFUL morning in history![/quote:6b0a35878b]
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View entire thread: 3+1 and Finished!
Posted by Susan Laity Price on Tue Aug 15, 2006 10:54 AM Post subject: Re: 3+1 and Finished!
Just looked at all the quilts on the web site. You have been busy! They are all lovely. I was especially interested in
the blue and white quilt with the machine embroidered sayings. I just upgraded my embroidery machine and am looking for
ways to use it with my quilting. Was the pattern from a book (if so please share the title) or your own ideas? Susan
On 14 Aug 2006 07:20:41 -0700, "joan8904 in Bellevue Nebraska" <joan8904@aol.com> wrote:
[quote:d4bd5dcfbf]http://community.webshots.com/photo/2066231480062000453ocAFLa Three baby quilts, a queen-sized quilt
and a sweater for my DGD! joan p.s. in Bellevue Nebraska and having the MOST BEAUTIFUL morning in
history![/quote:d4bd5dcfbf]
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View entire thread: Looking for a pre-cut quilt for a beginner
Posted by Pat in Virginia on Tue Aug 08, 2006 7:47 PM Post subject: Re: Looking for a pre-cut quilt for a beginner
J: Another idea! You might be able to hire someone who can cut fabric for you. Perhaps you or a family member has a
skill to trade for cutting. Example: I love to cut, but can't knit. If your sister would knit me a sweater, I could
cut your quilt pieces. The place to find good cutters is at your quilt guild, LQS, or Senior Center. HTH. PAT in
VA/USA Jacqueline wrote: [quote:b2c0ef1da6]Hi all, I use to post here years ago, always wanted to learn to quilt,
when I finally got the nerve to try it my mother got sick and I never did. I am no longer able to use my hands like I
use to could and would like to find a precut quilt for a beginner. I also will be machine quilting. Anyone got any
ideas where I might find such a quilt?[/quote:b2c0ef1da6]
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View entire thread: OT front loading washers
Posted by Leslie & The Furbabies in on Sun Jul 23, 2006 8:40 PM Post subject: Re: OT front loading washers
Maureen- Even with the coin operated washers, can't you stop the washing/aggitation cycle by lifting the lid to stop
the washing action or pulling out the button or dial or whatever after the tub fills with water and then re-start the
cycle after the soaking time? That's what I do with my front loader and it works just fine. I can turn the dial to
spin and not go thru all the entire wash cycle. Hope you can find a simple solution. Leslie & The Furbabies in MO.
Maureen Wozniak wrote: [quote:d24a1aae42]On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 23:19:29 -0500, Tricia wrote (in article
<1153628369.633722.58940@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>): DH did the research for us last year when we moved from
apartment to renting a house and had to purchase our own washer and dryer.... He figured out the Neptune from Maytag
(?) was the deal for us and I *love* it.... It's a front loader (much easier on my back since I'm a petite thing and
spent many years practically climbing into the washer to get eveyrhing out). I believe in the long run they tend to be
more water efficient (althouch I don't recall how reliable the source was that I heard that from). Besides the
different settings that I love on the Neptune we have (such as "handwash" which has done wonders for many of
my sweaters and unmentionables -- even the sweater with pearls on it), I love that it had no center agitator for stuff
to get tangled up around.....I'd HATE to have to go back to a top loader. The set we got (W & D together) has it so
you can change which direction the doors open from so we have them so they open out to the sides so there is no trying
to put wet stuff over an open door to get it into the dryer....I love it.... HTH, NAYY! Tricia Taria wrote: Time to
upgrade my washing machine. Water going up 29% and I need to reduce. The old machine (as Candice Olsen would say)
doesn't owe anyone anything. It has served long and hard. I'll take any good and bad comments or things to watch for
in the newer front loaders. Oh, I prewash my fabrics so I guess this might be on topic : ) TIA, Taria That sounds
fabulous. I wish I could have a front loader with cycles to choose from. But because David owns this apartment
building, we're stuck with the coin operated ones in the basement. I don't even have a soak cycle so I can pre-shrink
batting. And to make this on-topic, any one know of away I can preshrink Warm and Natural for a table runner I'm making
without having to go to my Mom's and use her washer since there is no way I can do it these blasted coin-operated
things? Maureen[/quote:d24a1aae42]
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View entire thread: OT front loading washers
Posted by Maureen Wozniak on Sun Jul 23, 2006 4:24 PM Post subject: Re: OT front loading washers
On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 23:19:29 -0500, Tricia wrote (in article
<1153628369.633722.58940@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>): [quote:c458364dcf]DH did the research for us last year
when we moved from apartment to renting a house and had to purchase our own washer and dryer.... He figured out the
Neptune from Maytag (?) was the deal for us and I *love* it.... It's a front loader (much easier on my back since I'm a
petite thing and spent many years practically climbing into the washer to get eveyrhing out). I believe in the long run
they tend to be more water efficient (althouch I don't recall how reliable the source was that I heard that from).
Besides the different settings that I love on the Neptune we have (such as "handwash" which has done wonders
for many of my sweaters and unmentionables -- even the sweater with pearls on it), I love that it had no center agitator
for stuff to get tangled up around.....I'd HATE to have to go back to a top loader. The set we got (W & D together)
has it so you can change which direction the doors open from so we have them so they open out to the sides so there is
no trying to put wet stuff over an open door to get it into the dryer....I love it.... HTH, NAYY! Tricia Taria wrote:
Time to upgrade my washing machine. Water going up 29% and I need to reduce. The old machine (as Candice Olsen would
say) doesn't owe anyone anything. It has served long and hard. I'll take any good and bad comments or things to watch
for in the newer front loaders. Oh, I prewash my fabrics so I guess this might be on topic : ) TIA, Taria
[/quote:c458364dcf] That sounds fabulous. I wish I could have a front loader with cycles to choose from. But because
David owns this apartment building, we're stuck with the coin operated ones in the basement. I don't even have a soak
cycle so I can pre-shrink batting. And to make this on-topic, any one know of away I can preshrink Warm and Natural
for a table runner I'm making without having to go to my Mom's and use her washer since there is no way I can do it
these blasted coin-operated things? Maureen
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View entire thread: OT front loading washers
Posted by Tricia on Sun Jul 23, 2006 5:19 AM Post subject: Re: OT front loading washers
DH did the research for us last year when we moved from apartment to renting a house and had to purchase our own washer
and dryer.... He figured out the Neptune from Maytag (?) was the deal for us and I *love* it.... It's a front loader
(much easier on my back since I'm a petite thing and spent many years practically climbing into the washer to get
eveyrhing out). I believe in the long run they tend to be more water efficient (althouch I don't recall how reliable
the source was that I heard that from). Besides the different settings that I love on the Neptune we have (such as
"handwash" which has done wonders for many of my sweaters and unmentionables -- even the sweater with pearls
on it), I love that it had no center agitator for stuff to get tangled up around.....I'd HATE to have to go back to a
top loader. The set we got (W & D together) has it so you can change which direction the doors open from so we have
them so they open out to the sides so there is no trying to put wet stuff over an open door to get it into the
dryer....I love it.... HTH, NAYY! Tricia Taria wrote: [quote:50fdadce35]Time to upgrade my washing machine. Water
going up 29% and I need to reduce. The old machine (as Candice Olsen would say) doesn't owe anyone anything. It has
served long and hard. I'll take any good and bad comments or things to watch for in the newer front loaders. Oh, I
prewash my fabrics so I guess this might be on topic : ) TIA, Taria[/quote:50fdadce35]
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View entire thread: kumihimo
Posted by Alison on Thu Sep 21, 2006 2:10 AM Post subject: Re: "ball of yarn" beads
These would also make great stitch markers. I make earrings (for pierced ears) with lever backs. When I need to mark
someplace I now use my earrings. Alison On Wed, 20 Sep 2006 13:02:10 -0500, "Georgia"
<g-Green@uiuc.eduNOSPAM> wrote: [quote:ba06805fb8]I have sold quite a few lapel pins of that design (but made
with real yarn). Never thought of earrings, but...thanks for the ideas! <brain churning on all 8 cylindersx Georgia
"Leah" <fenton@nowayamigivingitout.com> wrote in message
news:b2a2h2lufo9imb4639b9qi1h1s6688mrff@4ax.com... Georgia, Just wanted to let everyone know that the "ball of
yarn" earrings I wrote about last week have been a real hit, so I've made a bunch more "balls of yarn"
for earrings, or whatever people want: http://www.georgiamorgan.net/assets/PCbeads/ballofyarnbeads.jpg Those are great.
Have you thought about getting some bamboo skewers or toothpicks and cutting them down and shoving 2 through 1 earring
ball before they are dried to make the holes, pull out, cure the clay, then put glue on the skewers and slip them back
in to 1 earring as wooden knitting needles? You'd cross them through the middle of the "yarn ball" like you
see the pewter ball of yarn pendant with needles poked through it. Colored toothpicks might be really cute, and with
both ends pointed 1 pick might make both needles seeing how small those earrings are next to that penny. If they hang
funny on an ear, they could always be made a little larger and worn as a pendant or a lapel pin, like the sock knitters
sometimes make a lapel sock or machine knitters make a tiny sweater pin to wear to ID themselves to others at meetings.
Leah [/quote:ba06805fb8]
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