View entire thread: post weld cleaning of stainless
Posted by Ries on Sun Aug 06, 2006 2:58 AM Post subject: Re: post weld cleaning of stainless
Last thing first- These are portable electropolishers. All they are is a transformer- The output is 40 volts, at about
2 or 3 amps. A battery charger will work, but will be much slower, due to the lower voltage. You use a spring ground
clamp for the ground, on the work, close to where you are polishing. You use a "wand" for the positive- I
made mine from a scrap piece of 5/8" round silcon bronze, but some of the commercial units just use flattened
1/2" copper pipe. The trick is to wrap the business end of the wand with something tough, but soft- I use 2"
wide woven fiberglas tape. I wrap a few wraps on, and tape it on with black electrical tape. Then dip in your mild
phosphoric acid or Citri-Surf liquid. You dont want the metal of the wand to touch the stainless, you want the
electricity to conduct thru the wet fiberglas tape. the fiberglas will burn and char after a while, and need to be
removed, tossed, and replaced with new. Works great for removing weld discoloration. Not so good at removing blackened
stainless that has been forged- for that, I have to send it out to a commercial house that uses a 100 volt power supply
that is as big as a refridgerator. And commercially, they find it helps to dip the piece in a bathtub of phosphoric,
which they heat to 120 degrees or so.
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View entire thread: Kawasaki KE 100 no spark
Posted by Trevor Jones on Tue Aug 01, 2006 1:43 PM Post subject: Re: Kawasaki KE 100 no spark
wayne mak wrote: [quote:b5cd8fce08]I was given an old kawasaki KE 100 bike that has no spark, do these need a live
battery to run? From what I found on the web its a CDI system, but I have seen these in outboards some require a battery
others don't. Also does this have points? Any help would be great. the metal content is its made of metal and has rust.
[/quote:b5cd8fce08] My generic experience, as a bottom feeder in the technology puddle, is that there are only a few
things that can go wrong. Wiring is the most common find. Check it all. Look for worn through insulation and check
each run of wire with a meter to see that conductivity is good. I have found more than a few wires that were broken
inside the insulation. Nothing like replaceing a couple hundred bucks worth of parts only to have a well crimped lug
come sliding out of the lead with 4 inches of bare copper attached, to make you start kicking things! Check for
stupid stuff. Did the rotor/flywheel get installed on the crank without the key in place? You pretty much have to pull
it to check the wires running in behind anyway. Seen it. Check through some of the similar manuals, if you cannot
find the correct one. There should be some values for resistance checks on the coils. IIRC near zero on the primary,
8k to 20k ohms on the secondary were in the last couple coils I checked. Nether side should leak to the other. Remove
the kill circuit from the works and install a short bit of good wire in an accessable place (ground it against the
chassis or engine to kill) that eliminates the tracing of that system, at least for the troubleshooting. Trust not
the repairs of others!! Peel the tape back and check the joints! Got a bike wrecker or small engine place you can
scrounge up a box? graft in a box from pretty much any similar machine. As a last resort, a little bit of
screwdriver mechanicing should be able to allow the grafting in of an electronic ignition module as used by the larger
scale model airplane guys. Even if you just stick it on a bracket where the hall effect sensor can get hit by the
flywheel magnet (or you glue a small one on for the use of), you can at least see if the motor is in fit condition to
be worth further investment. Remember, it's old, it probably does not need new OEM parts. Not when the dealer wants
more than the bike will sell for, anyway. There's my thoughts, anyway. Cheers Trevor Jones
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View entire thread: Where to find really small female spade wiring connectors.
Posted by Gerald Miller on Sat Jul 29, 2006 1:06 AM Post subject: Re: Where to find really small female spade wiring connector
On 28 Jul 2006 10:44:02 -0700, jim rozen <jim_member@newsguy.com> wrote: [quote:74bfad3baa]In article
<eabp4u0le1@news1.newsguy.com>, DoN. Nichols says... And a *proper* crimp, made with proper crimp
terminals and a proper crimper will do a good job of stabilizing the insulation relative to the crimp joint, so the flex
will be where the wire exits the insulation support (until it reaches its next support point), and will thus not be
concentrated at a narrow point, as the whole of the service loop between where the wire exits the insulation grip of the
crimp terminal and it enters the wiring harness (assuming lacing or lots of cable ties) will be equally free to vibrate,
and so the flex stress will be distributed along the length. In principle this works. In most real-world vehicles
though, the failure happens differently. By real-world I am not talking about space shuttles, either. :^) And then
there's my experience with an '83 "K" car where the electric[/quote:74bfad3baa] window harness was routed
under the driver's side floor mat. Connections were "spot welded" then protected with a loose wrap of fabric
tape. After three winters, all exposed copper had been well soaked with salt water and converted to a non conducting
green substance. The windows worked much better after a couple days of labour and a couple rolls of C130 tape. Gerry
:-)} London, Canada
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View entire thread: Chineese tools getting better
Posted by William B Noble (don't re on Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:57 AM Post subject: Re: Chineese Ripoff skills getting better
FWIW, I ended up with one of those - a friend bought one (on my advise) at a swap meet - I doubt the vendor knew they
were defective and a fraud - and yes, the "real" ones work nicely as an emergency flashlight - On Wed, 19
Jul 2006 13:02:54 GMT, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" <lloydsp@mindspring.com> wrote: [quote:809bfea814] sort
of an OT aside on this thread... We bought about a dozen "jerk-off" flashlights for our shooting crews for
the 4th. Y'know... those things you shake a magnet through a coil to re-charge? We'd bought a handful last year, and
they worked fine. So this year we bought a case of the same model, same manufacturer. They were identical down to the
parting lines in the plastic mouldings. Except... I lazily glanced at one against the sun to see the components inside
the translucent case. Hmmmm.... I can't see any diodes on the board. Hmmm.... I can see LIGHT coming through the coil
that should have 10K-12K turns on it. Hmmmm.... No cap on the board, either. Hmmmm...... I took the damn thing
apart. The "coil" had about 100 turns of fine wire on it. Just enough to "color it copper". The
board was bare. There were two corroded and lumpy (reject?) little lithium cells in there powering the LED. The coil
leads terminated into air under a piece of Scotch tape. The "magnet" was a lump of pot metal, crudely snipped
off with clippers. "Round eye not notice! Light work for intermittent duty for a few months, it stop, he say
'Oh... must be broke... buy more.'" Same price, same company, universal rip-off of every customer who'd come back
for more of the original product. LLoyd Bill[/quote:809bfea814] www.wbnoble.com to contact me, do not reply to this
message, instead correct this address and use it will iam_ b_ No ble at msn daught com -- Posted via a
free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
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View entire thread: Chineese tools getting better
Posted by Gunner on Wed Jul 19, 2006 5:57 PM Post subject: Re: Chineese Ripoff skills getting better
On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 13:02:54 GMT, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" <lloydsp@mindspring.com> wrote:
[quote:cddb86ecb1] sort of an OT aside on this thread... We bought about a dozen "jerk-off" flashlights for
our shooting crews for the 4th. Y'know... those things you shake a magnet through a coil to re-charge? We'd bought a
handful last year, and they worked fine. So this year we bought a case of the same model, same manufacturer. They were
identical down to the parting lines in the plastic mouldings. Except... I lazily glanced at one against the sun to see
the components inside the translucent case. Hmmmm.... I can't see any diodes on the board. Hmmm.... I can see LIGHT
coming through the coil that should have 10K-12K turns on it. Hmmmm.... No cap on the board, either. Hmmmm...... I
took the damn thing apart. The "coil" had about 100 turns of fine wire on it. Just enough to "color it
copper". The board was bare. There were two corroded and lumpy (reject?) little lithium cells in there powering
the LED. The coil leads terminated into air under a piece of Scotch tape. The "magnet" was a lump of pot
metal, crudely snipped off with clippers. "Round eye not notice! Light work for intermittent duty for a few
months, it stop, he say 'Oh... must be broke... buy more.'" Same price, same company, universal rip-off of every
customer who'd come back for more of the original product. LLoyd I mentioned that in a thread about a year ago.. Some
of the shake[/quote:cddb86ecb1] lights were being counterfeited..... Chinese counterfeiting other Chinese products.
Which I found fascinating. Gunner "If I'm going to reach out to the the Democrats then I need a third
hand.There's no way I'm letting go of my wallet or my gun while they're around." "Democrat. In the
dictionary it's right after demobilize and right before demode` (out of fashion). -Buddy Jordan 2001
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View entire thread: Chineese tools getting better
Posted by Ignoramus16532 on Wed Jul 19, 2006 2:35 PM Post subject: Re: Chineese Ripoff skills getting better
On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 13:02:54 GMT, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh <lloydsp@mindspring.com> wrote: [quote:b5a333ef8b] sort of
an OT aside on this thread... We bought about a dozen "jerk-off" flashlights for our shooting crews for the
4th. Y'know... those things you shake a magnet through a coil to re-charge? We'd bought a handful last year, and they
worked fine. So this year we bought a case of the same model, same manufacturer. They were identical down to the
parting lines in the plastic mouldings. Except... I lazily glanced at one against the sun to see the components inside
the translucent case. Hmmmm.... I can't see any diodes on the board. Hmmm.... I can see LIGHT coming through the coil
that should have 10K-12K turns on it. Hmmmm.... No cap on the board, either. Hmmmm...... I took the damn thing
apart. The "coil" had about 100 turns of fine wire on it. Just enough to "color it copper". The
board was bare. There were two corroded and lumpy (reject?) little lithium cells in there powering the LED. The coil
leads terminated into air under a piece of Scotch tape. The "magnet" was a lump of pot metal, crudely snipped
off with clippers. "Round eye not notice! Light work for intermittent duty for a few months, it stop, he say
'Oh... must be broke... buy more.'" Same price, same company, universal rip-off of every customer who'd come back
for more of the original product. [/quote:b5a333ef8b] Lloyd, this is an amazing story, I never heard anything as
outrageous. i
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View entire thread: Chineese tools getting better
Posted by Lloyd E. Sponenburgh on Wed Jul 19, 2006 2:02 PM Post subject: Re: Chineese Ripoff skills getting better
sort of an OT aside on this thread... We bought about a dozen "jerk-off" flashlights for our shooting crews
for the 4th. Y'know... those things you shake a magnet through a coil to re-charge? We'd bought a handful last year,
and they worked fine. So this year we bought a case of the same model, same manufacturer. They were identical down
to the parting lines in the plastic mouldings. Except... I lazily glanced at one against the sun to see the components
inside the translucent case. Hmmmm.... I can't see any diodes on the board. Hmmm.... I can see LIGHT coming through
the coil that should have 10K-12K turns on it. Hmmmm.... No cap on the board, either. Hmmmm...... I took the damn
thing apart. The "coil" had about 100 turns of fine wire on it. Just enough to "color it copper".
The board was bare. There were two corroded and lumpy (reject?) little lithium cells in there powering the LED. The
coil leads terminated into air under a piece of Scotch tape. The "magnet" was a lump of pot metal, crudely
snipped off with clippers. "Round eye not notice! Light work for intermittent duty for a few months, it stop, he
say 'Oh... must be broke... buy more.'" Same price, same company, universal rip-off of every customer who'd come
back for more of the original product. LLoyd
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View entire thread: 1st side distorts (flattens) when 2nd side is soldered
Posted by Adrian Brentnall on Sun Apr 30, 2006 5:38 PM Post subject: Re: 1st side distorts (flattens) when 2nd side is soldered
Hi On 30 Apr 2006 08:23:15 -0700, eganders@yahoo.com wrote: [quote:700baad055]Here are some photos of the area I am
concerned with: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v384/eganders/Completelyfoiledreadyforsolder002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v384/eganders/Completelyfoiledreadyforsolder003.jpg This shows the entire layup:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v384/eganders/Completelyfoiledreadyforsolder005.jpg [/quote:700baad055] Some of the
gaps are a bit on the large side - but not impossibly so. Not being rude - but is this one of your first projects? (it's
quite ambitious - you're very brave ! - and it's looking pretty good <g>). If you've not had that much practise
at the soldering - why not find some 'scrap' glass (cheap, clear window glass will do fine) and have a bit of a 'play'
on that first ? you'll be that much more confident and expert when you're doing it for real. Try cutting a sheet of
window glass into four or six pieces - foil them & then solder them back together again...? Be aware that it's
possible to crack the glass by leaving the iron in position too long - maybe try doing this deliberately on the cheap
glass - so's you know how to avoid it on the expensive clock-face! Also - wipe the crud off your iron on a dampened
sponge, rag or, 'brillo' pad or newspaper every time you pick it up - helps to remove the oxide that builds up as you
solder. For what it's worth - here's how I'd go about soldering up your clock project... speaking only as an
enthusiastic amateur <g> Set the parts up on your wooden board, as per your last photo. Put little 'dabs' of flux
on the copper at key points (you're going to tack the panel before doing the 'proper' soldering) Tack the panel with
small 'blobs' of solder. Make sure that everything is where you want it to be (adjust if necessary) Flux all the copper
tape - with the possible exception of the outside edges - then wipe a thin layer of solder down every seam - don't worry
too much about forming a neat bead at this stage. Using another wooden board - flip the panel over so you are now
working on the back - careful - it's not very strong yet ! Flux the back of the panel - and solder it, taking care to
get a neat, rounded bead (this is why you were 'playing' with the clear glass earlier. Once you're happy with the rear
of the panel, use the wooden board again to flip it back the right way up - and solder every seam - making truly
excellent rounded beads <g> As you solder these front beads you'll find that, if you time it right, you can get a
nice bead on the front without the solder on the back getting hot enough to melt - because there's a fair old thermal
mass of solder there now. There's a knack to getting the iron moving slow enough to get a good melt, but not so slow
that the heat penetrates to the back... Sorry if I'm teaching you how to suck eggs..... ... but hope this helps. By
the way - some books say that, if you have really large gaps, you can use masking tape to stop the solder from falling
though - but I guess if the gaps are that large then the 'right' way is to re-cut the glass... You could also 'caulk'
the gap with a small piece of rolled-up foil - but if you can get the soldering right then there's really no need to...
Now stand back and congratulate yourself! Good luck Adrian Suffolk UK ======return email munged================= take
out the papers and the trash to reply
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View entire thread: $2 Back Issue Sale at Somerset Studio!
Posted by Vibrant Jewels on Tue Sep 26, 2006 4:13 AM Post subject: Re: microscope slides where to buy etc. - was: Re: $2 Back I
Thanks Susan! I was reading the current issue of Cloth, Paper, Scissors, and there was instructions for making a book
using Mica sheets, copper tape, and solder. I got the idea until the soldering part, I wasn't sure if you were
soldering the tape to the Mica, the tape to the book, or what! I guess you can tell I've never tried it before, so some
basic instruction - REALLY basic - would be helpful. Thanks, karleen -- Karleen Page Member International Jewelry
Designers Guild (IJDG) Vibrant Jewels: http://www.vibrantjewels.com/jewelry/welcome.htm JustBeads:
http://www.justbeads.com/search/ql.cfm?s=21770 Join our Yahoo Group: vibrantjewels-subscribe@yahoogroups.com "Susan
in VA" <suzy@bidonbeads.every1.net> wrote in message
news:4dcab7a3b28f85860ad5488fc4289d4a.31951@mygate.mailgate.org... [quote:fcf5a87f33]"Vibrant Jewels"
<vibrantjewels@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:HsGQg.10670$v%4.8786@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net Ok so
can you point me to some instructions? What kind of glass, where do you get it, etc. For microscope slides (which you
can cut to smaller sizes - they come in 1 x 3 inch size): http://www.outsidethemargins.com/essentials2.html [That's
a direct link to her microscope slides.] She also sells the copper foil tape, but you can get it cheaper elsewhere -- I
get mine at www.delphiglass.com However, if you want to "cheat", there are framed glass thingies that you
can buy that are "ready" for your collage. They're called "Memory Frames", and you can buy them at
several places - - here's one: http://www.schmoozewithsuze.com/product/product.php?pID=060526213643 [If that URL is too
long, go to http://www.schmoozewithsuze.com and look on the left side of the home page for NEW PRODUCTS>Memory
Frames. I find the shipping/handling at that site too high, so I look elsewhere for these frames. One place is
FranticStamper.com, but their search page sucks, so I can never find what I'm looking for. <g> I end up emailing
them for the direct link. But it's still cheaper for S/H!] Instructions for doing the soldering type are on the
Internet in various places, too (I'm looking for some as I speak <g>)... Yikes, not finding any! Well, if I do
find some, I'll let you know. But, Karleen, if you want me to walk you thru the soldering steps, let me know! --
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG[/quote:fcf5a87f33]
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View entire thread: Memory Glass
Posted by Lenora on Sat Jun 03, 2006 2:13 PM Post subject: Re: Memory Glass
ooo, stickers I never even thought of that. looking forward to seeing your results :-) Lenora gin's creations wrote:
[quote:1a8aa08aba]I have been experimenting with my slides all week...They are awesome for inclosing pics and sealing
with stickers, utee(ultra thick embossing powers) and copper tape. I have been using polymer clay and waterslide
transfers. The results are amazing! Will be posting pics to my gallery soon... Gin http://www.gins-creations.com
[/quote:1a8aa08aba]
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View entire thread: Memory Glass
Posted by gin's creations on Fri Jun 02, 2006 6:54 AM Post subject: Re: Memory Glass
I have been experimenting with my slides all week...They are awesome for inclosing pics and sealing with stickers,
utee(ultra thick embossing powers) and copper tape. I have been using polymer clay and waterslide transfers. The
results are amazing! Will be posting pics to my gallery soon... Gin http://www.gins-creations.com "Jessica"
<Jcicely@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1149179745.806840.326260@h76g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
[quote:c7e4474588]Lenora - Thanks for the info! I can see the possibilites now...hmmmm. :) Jessica Lenora wrote:
they are llike microscope slides but in different sizes, 1x3" or 2x2" and are burnished not to have sharp
edges. You make a small collage out of paper/pictures/stickers (not too thick maybe 3-4 layers), sandwich it between
two slides and then seal the edges with foil tape, solder or by dipping in utee. They can be used as ornaments, jewelry,
embelishments. http://www.volcanoarts.biz/muse/photoframes/photocharms.jpg these are pretty exotic . they have a
project video on http://www.paperwishes.com in the weekly webisodes where they make christmas ornaments which is what
caught my eye, I thought they would make a cool removable embelishment for christmas cards. They also have a jewelry
making one but that's not so much for me. [/quote:c7e4474588]
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View entire thread: more questions, are you bored yet?
Posted by Adrian Brentnall on Sun May 14, 2006 8:17 AM Post subject: Re: more questions, are you bored yet?
Hi Arlene On 13 May 2006 23:29:51 -0700, arlene.carol@gmail.com wrote: [quote:5087ff621d]Okay...here's what i need to
know.. I want to start designing some four or five sided free-standing table lamps... and need some rigid metal for them
to fit into a wooden base. i know that brass or copper can be soldered...i just don't know if i can find any copper or
brass sheets in this part of the planet. i do know that aluminium and possibly tin exists but i don't know if this can
be soldered...can it be? [/quote:5087ff621d] Brass is the one that's 'usually' used - maybe because it's cheaper than
copper - don't know the reason. Soldering to ali is possible - but you need special solder - wouldn't recommend it.
If by 'tin' you mean the stuff that baken beans comes in <g> - that's 'tinned steel' - also known as 'tinned
plate' - a thin coating on top of steel - and you can solder to that very easily - but I've not seen it used all that
often in stained glass work. Brass is often used by the model boatt / model car / model locomotive people - so that
might be somewhere to go & look - if there's a shop supplying this kind of thing somewhere near you ?
[quote:5087ff621d] if i can't find brass sheeting here, who sells it back in the states? can it only be cut with
shears? what thickness is easy to work with but will still give me the rigidness/strength i need to hold a 4-sided glass
'shade'... let's say the size is 12 x 9...that's a goodly weight in a finished shade, dont' you think? and what about
channel...i have ordered brass U channel but that's not going to be for the lamps...it's way too flimsey but will work
for panel edges. there must be a place that sells brass channel that's stronger...how can i get it here?
[/quote:5087ff621d] Don't know how to get the delivery sorted - but you'd be surprised how sturdy the brass channel
becomes once it's soldered up. If you've got a suitably hot iron (and let's not go _there_ again !) you might even be
able to copper tape the edges of your item and then solder the brass channel to it along its complete length. I've
never tried this - but electronics people use solder that's in the form of thin wire - you _might_ be able to lay some
of this in the channel before you assemble it - and then let the heat melt the whole lot..... try it on something that
doesn't matter first ! <g> [quote:5087ff621d]the brass channel that i ordered in the US couldn't be shipped here
because it was too long and the company wouldn't cut it down for me. so i had it sent to someone who agreed to cut it
and reship it to me...there has to be a better way to do this...i'll have to ask my wholesaler if she can get different
grades of brass channel here...it has to exist within the country...but i haven't a clue where to start.. okay, that's
it for today's questions. i sincerely hope to be in the new studio in a month's time...this is so exciting! Have fun -
sounds like you're going to <g[/quote:5087ff621d] Adrian Suffolk UK ======return email munged================= take
out the papers and the trash to reply
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