View entire thread: How to use chalk and pencils
Posted by Roscoe2 on Thu Oct 05, 2006 4:25 PM    Post subject: Re: How to use chalk and pencils



Wave Jumper wrote: [quote:2f121bfa83]Thanks for the info on the chalk pencils, Inky Huggz. Sounds great. I'll have to
see if my craft stores in the area have some so I can use my 40% and 50% coupons. SAD On 10/3/06 9:08 PM, in article
1159934916.551367.127630@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com, "Roscoe2" roscoe2@sherbtel.net> wrote: " Inky
Huggz, how do you use chalk pencils, like watercolor crayons but without the water? SAD I use the chalk pencils like a
colored pencil, but instead of blending them with a blender pen or gamsol, I use a q-tip. The nice thing about the
chalk pencils is that you do not have to seal them with hair spray or fixative. I just outline what I want to color and
blend inward. It is nice and i don't have to worry about spraying the chalk and it is a much smother and well for lack
of a better term but softer chalkier look. Clear as Mud? Ha ha. Inky Huggz, Missy Olson Angel #1754 North Branch, MN
[/quote:2f121bfa83] Hi SAD, Check out your local Michaels over by the pencils for drawing and such. Our Michael's has
them by the individual markers, prismacolor pencils and such. Good luck you will absolutely love them. If you have
trouble finding them, I know that the Angel Company sells them. Check out my website at http://missy.ismyangel.net
When you find them, let me know what you think of them. I know that you will want to get rid of all of your other
chalks. Inky Huggz, Missy Olson Angel #1754 North Branch, MN > >

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View entire thread: How to use chalk and pencils
Posted by Wave Jumper on Wed Oct 04, 2006 11:18 PM    Post subject: Re: How to use chalk and pencils

Thanks for the info on the chalk pencils, Inky Huggz. Sounds great. I'll have to see if my craft stores in the area
have some so I can use my 40% and 50% coupons. SAD On 10/3/06 9:08 PM, in article
1159934916.551367.127630@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com, "Roscoe2" <roscoe2@sherbtel.net> wrote:
[quote:90065fa709]" Inky Huggz, how do you use chalk pencils, like watercolor crayons but without the water? SAD
I use the chalk pencils like a colored pencil, but instead of blending them with a blender pen or gamsol, I use a q-tip.
The nice thing about the chalk pencils is that you do not have to seal them with hair spray or fixative. I just outline
what I want to color and blend inward. It is nice and i don't have to worry about spraying the chalk and it is a much
smother and well for lack of a better term but softer chalkier look. Clear as Mud? Ha ha. Inky Huggz, Missy Olson
Angel #1754 North Branch, MN [/quote:90065fa709]

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View entire thread: Mounted or Unmounted Stamps which do you prefer?
Posted by King's Crown on Sun Oct 22, 2006 4:41 AM    Post subject: Re: Mounted or Unmounted Stamps which do you prefer?

Hi Carole, I've found my SU sets very easy to pull a part without microwaving. Give that a try. I haven't microwaved
a single one. My craft room is clear at the other end of the house from my kitchen and I wasn't looking forward to
running back and forth. As bringing craft stuff to the kitchen is something I will not do any more now that I have a
dedicated room. That's how I found out just pulling them a part works great. I've found a sort of code Gray good,
Black OK, Red bad. This means the stamps with the gray foam pull a part beautifully and leave little residue if any
to clean up. Black if I get it peeled just right it's OK, but getting the adhesive lining to go with the foam is
tricky. The red foam ones are just a bugger. I may end up trying the microwave on them. Another tip I've found that
works great with getting the adhesive residue off with out blistering your thumb is Xyrons Adhesive Eraser. It's like
those tan rubbery erasers from our childhood. It's great. Someone suggested Undo to me and I haven't tried it yet. I
LOVE not having all those wood blocks on. So, far I've converted 3 drawers of rubber stamps to one. Lynne
"Carole" <ckhelmig@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1161313888.072196.61030@k70g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... [quote:2a1a7c2e04] I am in the process of converting my 50
SU sets to unmounted. I have been very hesitant because I was afraid I would damage the rubber so I tried it on a set I
wasn't crazy about. Finding that set was hard because I like they all. My husband is afraid I will break my microwave
opening and closing the door..........so I am converting my set slowly. I sent StampinUp an email a couple of weeks ago
regarding them offering both mounted and unmounted. They said and I quote: "We have passed your suggestion along
to the appropriate department, but are unable to advise you as to whether it will be implemented or whether such plans
are currently in the works" We are full-time RV'ers and storage is really a problem. Carole ...on the road again
[/quote:2a1a7c2e04]

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View entire thread: miniature calendars
Posted by JRTowner on Tue Sep 19, 2006 5:45 PM    Post subject: Re: miniature calendars

I have for my own use. The problem is how to hold the 12 pages together and look professional enough to give but with
care it can be done. if you decide to go the pre made calendars, check out www.vippies.com. Check out their site and
see how they used tem. They have some real cute ideas. They have tiny stamps to go along with the calendar. I'm
thinking of ordering the note pads also and decorating them for a craft show. I like their purses too. I think I could
do something with that too. Maya wrote: [quote:442c936032]I want to make mini calendar gifts with my new year cards
without spending money >on the adorable premade versions @ Impress, lol So I am making them in Excel on text-weight
with a single staple, > anyone else >tried this? Maya[/quote:442c936032]

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View entire thread: Northeast PA - Free Talk/Class
Posted by CarolHeppner on Fri Aug 04, 2006 11:10 PM    Post subject: Northeast PA - Free Talk/Class

Hi All, If you live in Northeast PA... near Olyphant, PA... I will be giving a free talk about Heritage Scrapbooking at
the Genealogy Research Society of Northeast PA on August 16 at 7:00. The talk will be about 30 to 45 minutes long.
The materials list for the event is listed at: http://carolmheppner2.blogspot.com/ This is the presser for the local
paper: Local writer and artist Carol Heppner to Speak about Heritage Scrapbooking Basics at Genealogical Research
Society of Northeast Pennsylvania on August 16, 2006 Archbald, PA , July 27, 2006 Local writer and artist Carol
Heppner will present Heritage Scrapbooking Basics on August 16, 2006, at the Genealogical Research Society of Northeast
Pennsylvania (GRSNP). Carol Heppner is a local writer and artist from Archbald, and author of the recently-released
Scrapbooking Techniques: Inking, by Sterling Publications. The presentation, Heritage Scrapbooking basics will
explore basic scrapbooking techniques, but as it is applied to genealogical research. Participants will learn how to
combine scrapbooking technique with genealogy research to create their own "Family Memory Albums." During
this presentation, Carol will cover the various papers, inks, powders, rubber stamps, and adhesives used in
scrapbooking. Participants will learn how to use ink to give papers an aged look, so as to harmonize with the theme of
genealogy. Participants will create their own 8 by 8-inch Vintage scrapbook page. Scrapbooking is a very popular
craft. Carol takes a fresh look at how spectacular, vintage background papers for scrapbooks can be combined with
genealogical research, so as to present an eye-catching rendering to the reader of the genealogical information. Carol
has spent many years exploring her Italian genealogy. She combines this passion for family history with her widely-
recognized skills in paper arts. Carol developed techniques used in Scrapbooking Techniques: Inking, among other
national publications in which her artwork regularly appears. For additional information on the August 16th talk at
the Genealogical Research Society of Northeast Pennsylvania, contact GRSNP or visit www.carolheppner.com. The evening
talk, which begins at 7 PM, is open to the public. Students will be expected to bring requisite materials, which are
listed on www.carolheppner.com under "Upcoming Events." The Genealogical Research Society of Northeast
Pennsylvania meeting will be held in the Community Room at 211 Susquehanna Avenue, Olyphant and can be reached at phone
number (570) 383-7661. About Carol Heppner: Carol Heppner is a contemporary artist and free-lance writer from
Archbald, Pennsylvania. Her artwork and articles appear in many national publications, including Scrap and Stamp Arts,
Somerset Studio, and Belle Armoire. She is on the editorial advisory board of Scrap and Stamp Arts, Scott Publications,
and is featured in a regular column titled "Art Smarts." Carol is a design member of the Crafts and Hobby
Association (CHA). Her work medium includes clay, paper arts, silk painting, watercolor, photography, collage, stained
glass, and rubber stamping. Carol Heppner www.carolheppner.com

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View entire thread: Hi I am new
Posted by Jackie_ ark on Thu Aug 03, 2006 8:29 PM    Post subject: Hi I am new

Hi I am new to this group and to google groups. I was interested in the Sell your craft items I would like to know
how to do that here I have a yard sale store on line I am selling fabrics from when I use to quilt Jackie In Arkansas

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View entire thread: Hi I am new
Posted by WPTP Stamps on Thu Aug 03, 2006 8:54 PM    Post subject: Re: Hi I am new

Hi Jackie, If you have an online store, put a link to it in one of your posts. Be sure to preface the subject line with
the word "AD:" as in AD: Free Shipping on Everything at our store Visit us at:
http://www.whitepinetradingpost.com or eBay search WPTP Stamps This group is mostly devoted to Rubber (or polymer)
Stamping but Scrapbooking & Crafting Supplies are sometimes advertised here too. Good Luck selling those
fabrics..... Chester Pinecone White Pine Trading Post **************************** "Jackie_ ark"
<jackie@jackiepopp.com> wrote in message news:1154633373.024870.325760@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
[quote:091076f95d]Hi I am new to this group and to google groups. I was interested in the Sell your craft items I
would like to know how to do that here I have a yard sale store on line I am selling fabrics from when I use to quilt
Jackie In Arkansas [/quote:091076f95d]

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View entire thread: Hi I am new
Posted by Jackie_ ark on Thu Aug 03, 2006 8:29 PM    Post subject: Hi I am new

Hi I am new to this group and to google groups. I was interested in the Sell your craft items I would like to know
how to do that here I have a yard sale store on line I am selling fabrics from when I use to quilt Jackie In Arkansas

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View entire thread: AD GOT INK Carol Heppner
Posted by CarolHeppner on Tue Jun 20, 2006 9:36 PM    Post subject: AD GOT INK Carol Heppner

Got Ink? Inkpads, that is... then read on... New Inking Book by Carol Heppner Art Smarts - New Educational Article by
Carol Heppner Scrapbook Talk/Class - Olyphant, PA INKING by Carol Heppner New book Do your inkpads sit on your shelf
- only seeing the light of day when a rubber stamp enters the room? What if I showed you how to take that under-used
inkpad and plain ol' paper to create some awesome-colored paper that is suitable for use in altered arts, ATC's,
collage, paper arts, rubber stamping and scrapbooking? I've specialized in ink techniques for over 10 years and written
many articles on the subject. Now, you can share my passion for this media though my new book entitled: INKING. My
book covers the types of inks in craft stores and how you can use them for more than just stamping an image. Learn fast
and easy ink techniques to apply ink on any size paper, which can then be used in various scrapbooking, greeting cards,
embellishments, and miniature book projects. The project instructions in the book are straight forward and easy to
understand. INKING by Carol Heppner Sterling/Chapelle 128 pages 8 1/2 X 10. All in color ISBN: 1-4027-2646-5
Visit www.carolheppner.com to learn more about my book INKING and to put your inkpads to work!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Art Smarts by Carol Heppner New Article This educational column in Scrap & Stamp Arts
magazine explains various techniques and explores different topics of interest for the Scrap and Stamp Artist. The
column explains how readers can get more value from the products they purchase, then follows with demonstrated projects
and examples. Do you know the different types of inks on the market and how to care for them once you get them home?
You will after reading this article! Learn money-saving tips to keep those inkpad lasting longer. Use inks to create a
classy greeting card that features a spot for every family member, a 8 1/2 by 11-inch scrapbook layout for adults, and a
12-inch layout for the flower lover in all of us. View information about Art Smarts at:
http://carolheppner.com/index_files/Page697.htm ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Scrapbooking Basics with Carol Heppner
http://carolheppner.com/index_files/Page903.htm Genealogical Research Society of NE PA http://www.grsnp.org/ August
16, 2006 - Olyphant, PA at 7PM Do you live around Olyphant, PA, and are you interested in your family history? Then
discover the fun of Scrapbooking combined with your genealogy research to create spectacular "Family Memory
Albums." In this Scrapbooking Basics talk with Carol Heppner, you will learn about the various papers, inks,
powders, rubber stamps, and adhesives used in Scrapbooking. Find out how to apply ink to give new papers an aged look.
In addition, you will create your own 8 by 8-inch Vintage scrapbook page. Email info@grsnp.org for information on
GRSNP and meeting. Carol Heppner's work has appeared in publications such as Belle Armoire, Somerset Studio,
Expression Magazine, and Scrap & Stamp Arts. She is on the editorial advisory board of Scrap & Stamp Arts, Scott
Publications, and is a Design Member of the Crafts and Hobby Association.

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View entire thread: getting started, the what's and how's
Posted by GO on Sun Sep 17, 2006 6:15 AM    Post subject: Re: getting started, the what's and how's

Thanks so much for you comments Donna. DKat wrote: [quote:70d4cb7efe]That pretty much makes my information useless
(cheapest place I found for kiln, wheel, etc.). I do agree that think looking for used equipment, starting small,
building what you can on your own, etc. is a good idea. If there is a potter near by whose work you like, you can
apprentice yourself out to them. I have never known a potter that is not creative in making something out of nothing.
Remember that pottery has been done for 10s of thousands of years (long before electricity and fancy big wood burning
kilns). Starting with the most primative methods can teach you alot about your material and the craft. Try doing pit
firirng for example. All those old credit cards make great ribs and cleanup tools. Old guitar string or any wire tied
to coat buttons, large washers, sticks, etc. makes for a wonderful cutting string (in fact with twisting 2 or more wires
together you can make the pattern of the cut that you like). Learn to look at kitchen or garage odds and ends with clay
in mind. Go to garage sales and keep an eye out for things that make patterns, can cut, or just have a shape you like.
Start out doing slab and coil work. You really don't need a 5K studio to do pottery. I spent about half that for a new
kiln and wheel. I bought new because I knew exactly what I wanted, and a variety of other reasons (mostly a treat to
myself after spending many years moving from place to place and wanting to no longer be dependent on local studio
space). I don't know if you have L&L kilns there (I suspect not). I bought a short and wide kiln. I know my work
well enough to know that I'm not going to be throwing a piece taller than a foot and a half (if I did it would be fired
on it's side) but that I do like really wide pieces (garden platters) so I wanted to be sure the kiln was wide enough.
My kiln interior measures 28"WX18"H. It has almost as much cubic space as the typical tall kiln and I can
fire more than one plate at a time on a shelf. http://www.hotkilns.com/easy-fire-e28S.html (I got this kiln for much
less - look around before you buy). I learned to throw on a Shimpo and have never come across a wheel I like better.
When they came out with the Whisper (it really is silent), I knew this was what I wanted. Basically what I'm trying to
get at is that only you can know yourself well enough to know what is going to fit your needs. If you don't have a feel
for that yet, hold off on buying what can be really expensive equipment. At the same time don't be timid (unless it
suits you), pottery is a craft that feeds the soul for life. Good luck! Let us hear from you please. Donna _.
"GO" <Garageoffice@gmail.com> wrote in message news:4508f221@quokka.wn.com.au... In Australia. Elaine
Coggins wrote: G'Day Go, It all depends where you live!!! Yours in clay Elaine. "GO"
<Garageoffice@gmail.com> wrote in message news:4507f841$1@quokka.wn.com.au... Hi all, Any idea on the cost of
getting started with making my own pottery? Interested in getting a kiln, potter wheel and various tools. Comments
appreciated. GO [/quote:70d4cb7efe]

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View entire thread: getting started, the what's and how's
Posted by GO on Sun Sep 17, 2006 3:34 AM    Post subject: Re: getting started, the what's and how's

hehe! Nice. steve slgraber@aol.com wrote: [quote:610804733e]ok, you're in austrailia. now everyone knows wheels that
spin counter clockwise "up here" spin clockwise "down there". so keep that in mind... see ya
steve Elaine Coggins wrote: Hi again, I should have said I can be contacted through my web page, www.emcoggins.com
Elaine. "Elaine Coggins" <nospam@emcoggins.com> wrote in message
news:12gjbjnrlq2s70d@corp.supernews.com... Hi Donna, yes I do remember and I still have a Raku kiln and the plans, do
you want to get in touch with me and I will give you a copy, also I had fun getting this kiln to S/W temp one day I used
a piece of steel pipe and a blower to do it I found it was so exciting with the flames leaping out of the chimney, but
the bricks started to self glaze and the pipe started to melt, but what a great day that was. Elaine still in clay.
"DKat" <disisdkatspam@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:4509a926$1_4@marge.ic.sunysb.edu... I don't
suppose you remember how that kiln was built? I fire electric now but cannot hear the word raku without drooling (it is
associated with plum wine, good food, good company and good times). You actually fired using wood and house bricks. I
didn't know that could be done... If you remember anything, please share! Donna "Elaine Coggins"
<nospam@emcoggins.com> wrote in message news:12gj7c7et43ij6f@corp.supernews.com... Hi Donna, you reminded me of
what I started with 32 years ago. I had my classes learning pottery in Sydney, then moved to Queensland, my first wheel
was a stand at kick wheel, the kiln was a raku kiln built out of house bricks and these two items I used for 7 years, I
learned a lot about the way of clay and firing with wood in that time. I must say I still love it all. In clay again
Elaine "DKat" <disisdkatspam@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:45096edc$1_1@marge.ic.sunysb.edu...
That pretty much makes my information useless (cheapest place I found for kiln, wheel, etc.). I do agree that think
looking for used equipment, starting small, building what you can on your own, etc. is a good idea. If there is a potter
near by whose work you like, you can apprentice yourself out to them. I have never known a potter that is not creative
in making something out of nothing. Remember that pottery has been done for 10s of thousands of years (long before
electricity and fancy big wood burning kilns). Starting with the most primative methods can teach you alot about your
material and the craft. Try doing pit firirng for example. All those old credit cards make great ribs and cleanup
tools. Old guitar string or any wire tied to coat buttons, large washers, sticks, etc. makes for a wonderful cutting
string (in fact with twisting 2 or more wires together you can make the pattern of the cut that you like). Learn to
look at kitchen or garage odds and ends with clay in mind. Go to garage sales and keep an eye out for things that make
patterns, can cut, or just have a shape you like. Start out doing slab and coil work. You really don't need a 5K studio
to do pottery. I spent about half that for a new kiln and wheel. I bought new because I knew exactly what I wanted,
and a variety of other reasons (mostly a treat to myself after spending many years moving from place to place and
wanting to no longer be dependent on local studio space). I don't know if you have L&L kilns there (I suspect not).
I bought a short and wide kiln. I know my work well enough to know that I'm not going to be throwing a piece taller
than a foot and a half (if I did it would be fired on it's side) but that I do like really wide pieces (garden platters)
so I wanted to be sure the kiln was wide enough. My kiln interior measures 28"WX18"H. It has almost as much
cubic space as the typical tall kiln and I can fire more than one plate at a time on a shelf. http://www.hotkilns.com/
easy-fire-e28S.html (I got this kiln for much less - look around before you buy). I learned to throw on a Shimpo and
have never come across a wheel I like better. When they came out with the Whisper (it really is silent), I knew this
was what I wanted. Basically what I'm trying to get at is that only you can know yourself well enough to know what is
going to fit your needs. If you don't have a feel for that yet, hold off on buying what can be really expensive
equipment. At the same time don't be timid (unless it suits you), pottery is a craft that feeds the soul for life.
Good luck! Let us hear from you please. Donna _. "GO" <Garageoffice@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:4508f221@quokka.wn.com.au... In Australia. Elaine Coggins wrote: G'Day Go, It all depends where you live!!! Yours
in clay Elaine. "GO" <Garageoffice@gmail.com> wrote in message news:4507f841$1@quokka.wn.com.au... Hi
all, Any idea on the cost of getting started with making my own pottery? Interested in getting a kiln, potter wheel
and various tools. Comments appreciated. GO [/quote:610804733e]

back to top


View entire thread: getting started, the what's and how's
Posted by steve slgraber@aol.com on Sat Sep 16, 2006 1:56 AM    Post subject: Re: getting started, the what's and how's

ok, you're in austrailia. now everyone knows wheels that spin counter clockwise "up here" spin clockwise
"down there". so keep that in mind... see ya steve Elaine Coggins wrote: [quote:577e882bf7]Hi again, I
should have said I can be contacted through my web page, www.emcoggins.com Elaine. "Elaine Coggins"
<nospam@emcoggins.com> wrote in message news:12gjbjnrlq2s70d@corp.supernews.com... Hi Donna, yes I do remember and
I still have a Raku kiln and the plans, do you want to get in touch with me and I will give you a copy, also I had fun
getting this kiln to S/W temp one day I used a piece of steel pipe and a blower to do it I found it was so exciting with
the flames leaping out of the chimney, but the bricks started to self glaze and the pipe started to melt, but what a
great day that was. Elaine still in clay. "DKat" <disisdkatspam@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4509a926$1_4@marge.ic.sunysb.edu... I don't suppose you remember how that kiln was built? I fire electric now but
cannot hear the word raku without drooling (it is associated with plum wine, good food, good company and good times).
You actually fired using wood and house bricks. I didn't know that could be done... If you remember anything, please
share! Donna "Elaine Coggins" <nospam@emcoggins.com> wrote in message
news:12gj7c7et43ij6f@corp.supernews.com... Hi Donna, you reminded me of what I started with 32 years ago. I had my
classes learning pottery in Sydney, then moved to Queensland, my first wheel was a stand at kick wheel, the kiln was a
raku kiln built out of house bricks and these two items I used for 7 years, I learned a lot about the way of clay and
firing with wood in that time. I must say I still love it all. In clay again Elaine "DKat"
<disisdkatspam@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:45096edc$1_1@marge.ic.sunysb.edu... That pretty much makes my
information useless (cheapest place I found for kiln, wheel, etc.). I do agree that think looking for used equipment,
starting small, building what you can on your own, etc. is a good idea. If there is a potter near by whose work you
like, you can apprentice yourself out to them. I have never known a potter that is not creative in making something out
of nothing. Remember that pottery has been done for 10s of thousands of years (long before electricity and fancy big
wood burning kilns). Starting with the most primative methods can teach you alot about your material and the craft. Try
doing pit firirng for example. All those old credit cards make great ribs and cleanup tools. Old guitar string or any
wire tied to coat buttons, large washers, sticks, etc. makes for a wonderful cutting string (in fact with twisting 2 or
more wires together you can make the pattern of the cut that you like). Learn to look at kitchen or garage odds and
ends with clay in mind. Go to garage sales and keep an eye out for things that make patterns, can cut, or just have a
shape you like. Start out doing slab and coil work. You really don't need a 5K studio to do pottery. I spent about
half that for a new kiln and wheel. I bought new because I knew exactly what I wanted, and a variety of other reasons
(mostly a treat to myself after spending many years moving from place to place and wanting to no longer be dependent on
local studio space). I don't know if you have L&L kilns there (I suspect not). I bought a short and wide kiln. I
know my work well enough to know that I'm not going to be throwing a piece taller than a foot and a half (if I did it
would be fired on it's side) but that I do like really wide pieces (garden platters) so I wanted to be sure the kiln was
wide enough. My kiln interior measures 28"WX18"H. It has almost as much cubic space as the typical tall kiln
and I can fire more than one plate at a time on a shelf. http://www.hotkilns.com/easy-fire-e28S.html (I got this kiln
for much less - look around before you buy). I learned to throw on a Shimpo and have never come across a wheel I like
better. When they came out with the Whisper (it really is silent), I knew this was what I wanted. Basically what I'm
trying to get at is that only you can know yourself well enough to know what is going to fit your needs. If you don't
have a feel for that yet, hold off on buying what can be really expensive equipment. At the same time don't be timid
(unless it suits you), pottery is a craft that feeds the soul for life. Good luck! Let us hear from you please. Donna
_. "GO" <Garageoffice@gmail.com> wrote in message news:4508f221@quokka.wn.com.au... In Australia.
Elaine Coggins wrote: G'Day Go, It all depends where you live!!! Yours in clay Elaine. "GO"
<Garageoffice@gmail.com> wrote in message news:4507f841$1@quokka.wn.com.au... Hi all, Any idea on the cost of
getting started with making my own pottery? Interested in getting a kiln, potter wheel and various tools. Comments
appreciated. GO [/quote:577e882bf7]

back to top


View entire thread: getting started, the what's and how's
Posted by Elaine Coggins on Fri Sep 15, 2006 5:11 AM    Post subject: Re: getting started, the what's and how's

Hi again, I should have said I can be contacted through my web page, www.emcoggins.com Elaine. "Elaine
Coggins" <nospam@emcoggins.com> wrote in message news:12gjbjnrlq2s70d@corp.supernews.com...
[quote:312fb1f112]Hi Donna, yes I do remember and I still have a Raku kiln and the plans, do you want to get in touch
with me and I will give you a copy, also I had fun getting this kiln to S/W temp one day I used a piece of steel pipe
and a blower to do it I found it was so exciting with the flames leaping out of the chimney, but the bricks started to
self glaze and the pipe started to melt, but what a great day that was. Elaine still in clay. "DKat"
<disisdkatspam@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:4509a926$1_4@marge.ic.sunysb.edu... I don't suppose you remember
how that kiln was built? I fire electric now but cannot hear the word raku without drooling (it is associated with plum
wine, good food, good company and good times). You actually fired using wood and house bricks. I didn't know that
could be done... If you remember anything, please share! Donna "Elaine Coggins"
<nospam@emcoggins.com> wrote in message news:12gj7c7et43ij6f@corp.supernews.com... Hi Donna, you reminded me of
what I started with 32 years ago. I had my classes learning pottery in Sydney, then moved to Queensland, my first wheel
was a stand at kick wheel, the kiln was a raku kiln built out of house bricks and these two items I used for 7 years, I
learned a lot about the way of clay and firing with wood in that time. I must say I still love it all. In clay again
Elaine "DKat" <disisdkatspam@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:45096edc$1_1@marge.ic.sunysb.edu...
That pretty much makes my information useless (cheapest place I found for kiln, wheel, etc.). I do agree that think
looking for used equipment, starting small, building what you can on your own, etc. is a good idea. If there is a potter
near by whose work you like, you can apprentice yourself out to them. I have never known a potter that is not creative
in making something out of nothing. Remember that pottery has been done for 10s of thousands of years (long before
electricity and fancy big wood burning kilns). Starting with the most primative methods can teach you alot about your
material and the craft. Try doing pit firirng for example. All those old credit cards make great ribs and cleanup
tools. Old guitar string or any wire tied to coat buttons, large washers, sticks, etc. makes for a wonderful cutting
string (in fact with twisting 2 or more wires together you can make the pattern of the cut that you like). Learn to
look at kitchen or garage odds and ends with clay in mind. Go to garage sales and keep an eye out for things that make
patterns, can cut, or just have a shape you like. Start out doing slab and coil work. You really don't need a 5K studio
to do pottery. I spent about half that for a new kiln and wheel. I bought new because I knew exactly what I wanted,
and a variety of other reasons (mostly a treat to myself after spending many years moving from place to place and
wanting to no longer be dependent on local studio space). I don't know if you have L&L kilns there (I suspect not).
I bought a short and wide kiln. I know my work well enough to know that I'm not going to be throwing a piece taller
than a foot and a half (if I did it would be fired on it's side) but that I do like really wide pieces (garden platters)
so I wanted to be sure the kiln was wide enough. My kiln interior measures 28"WX18"H. It has almost as much
cubic space as the typical tall kiln and I can fire more than one plate at a time on a shelf. http://www.hotkilns.com/
easy-fire-e28S.html (I got this kiln for much less - look around before you buy). I learned to throw on a Shimpo and
have never come across a wheel I like better. When they came out with the Whisper (it really is silent), I knew this
was what I wanted. Basically what I'm trying to get at is that only you can know yourself well enough to know what is
going to fit your needs. If you don't have a feel for that yet, hold off on buying what can be really expensive
equipment. At the same time don't be timid (unless it suits you), pottery is a craft that feeds the soul for life.
Good luck! Let us hear from you please. Donna _. "GO" <Garageoffice@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:4508f221@quokka.wn.com.au... In Australia. Elaine Coggins wrote: G'Day Go, It all depends where you live!!! Yours
in clay Elaine. "GO" <Garageoffice@gmail.com> wrote in message news:4507f841$1@quokka.wn.com.au... Hi
all, Any idea on the cost of getting started with making my own pottery? Interested in getting a kiln, potter wheel
and various tools. Comments appreciated. GO [/quote:312fb1f112]

back to top


View entire thread: getting started, the what's and how's
Posted by DKat on Fri Sep 15, 2006 12:35 AM    Post subject: Re: getting started, the what's and how's

LOL, I can see the pipe melting... Yes, I would love to see the plans. My guess is that this email won't work for to
you (mine won't). I'm at disisdkat@hotmail.com Thanks a lot. Looking forward to seeing the plans. Donna
"Elaine Coggins" <nospam@emcoggins.com> wrote in message news:12gjbjnrlq2s70d@corp.supernews.com...
[quote:631f0b4773]Hi Donna, yes I do remember and I still have a Raku kiln and the plans, do you want to get in touch
with me and I will give you a copy, also I had fun getting this kiln to S/W temp one day I used a piece of steel pipe
and a blower to do it I found it was so exciting with the flames leaping out of the chimney, but the bricks started to
self glaze and the pipe started to melt, but what a great day that was. Elaine still in clay. "DKat"
<disisdkatspam@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:4509a926$1_4@marge.ic.sunysb.edu... I don't suppose you remember
how that kiln was built? I fire electric now but cannot hear the word raku without drooling (it is associated with plum
wine, good food, good company and good times). You actually fired using wood and house bricks. I didn't know that
could be done... If you remember anything, please share! Donna "Elaine Coggins"
<nospam@emcoggins.com> wrote in message news:12gj7c7et43ij6f@corp.supernews.com... Hi Donna, you reminded me of
what I started with 32 years ago. I had my classes learning pottery in Sydney, then moved to Queensland, my first wheel
was a stand at kick wheel, the kiln was a raku kiln built out of house bricks and these two items I used for 7 years, I
learned a lot about the way of clay and firing with wood in that time. I must say I still love it all. In clay again
Elaine "DKat" <disisdkatspam@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:45096edc$1_1@marge.ic.sunysb.edu...
That pretty much makes my information useless (cheapest place I found for kiln, wheel, etc.). I do agree that think
looking for used equipment, starting small, building what you can on your own, etc. is a good idea. If there is a potter
near by whose work you like, you can apprentice yourself out to them. I have never known a potter that is not creative
in making something out of nothing. Remember that pottery has been done for 10s of thousands of years (long before
electricity and fancy big wood burning kilns). Starting with the most primative methods can teach you alot about your
material and the craft. Try doing pit firirng for example. All those old credit cards make great ribs and cleanup
tools. Old guitar string or any wire tied to coat buttons, large washers, sticks, etc. makes for a wonderful cutting
string (in fact with twisting 2 or more wires together you can make the pattern of the cut that you like). Learn to
look at kitchen or garage odds and ends with clay in mind. Go to garage sales and keep an eye out for things that make
patterns, can cut, or just have a shape you like. Start out doing slab and coil work. You really don't need a 5K studio
to do pottery. I spent about half that for a new kiln and wheel. I bought new because I knew exactly what I wanted,
and a variety of other reasons (mostly a treat to myself after spending many years moving from place to place and
wanting to no longer be dependent on local studio space). I don't know if you have L&L kilns there (I suspect not).
I bought a short and wide kiln. I know my work well enough to know that I'm not going to be throwing a piece taller
than a foot and a half (if I did it would be fired on it's side) but that I do like really wide pieces (garden platters)
so I wanted to be sure the kiln was wide enough. My kiln interior measures 28"WX18"H. It has almost as much
cubic space as the typical tall kiln and I can fire more than one plate at a time on a shelf. http://www.hotkilns.com/
easy-fire-e28S.html (I got this kiln for much less - look around before you buy). I learned to throw on a Shimpo and
have never come across a wheel I like better. When they came out with the Whisper (it really is silent), I knew this
was what I wanted. Basically what I'm trying to get at is that only you can know yourself well enough to know what is
going to fit your needs. If you don't have a feel for that yet, hold off on buying what can be really expensive
equipment. At the same time don't be timid (unless it suits you), pottery is a craft that feeds the soul for life.
Good luck! Let us hear from you please. Donna _. "GO" <Garageoffice@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:4508f221@quokka.wn.com.au... In Australia. Elaine Coggins wrote: G'Day Go, It all depends where you live!!! Yours
in clay Elaine. "GO" <Garageoffice@gmail.com> wrote in message news:4507f841$1@quokka.wn.com.au... Hi
all, Any idea on the cost of getting started with making my own pottery? Interested in getting a kiln, potter wheel
and various tools. Comments appreciated. GO [/quote:631f0b4773]

back to top


View entire thread: getting started, the what's and how's
Posted by Elaine Coggins on Thu Sep 14, 2006 8:33 PM    Post subject: Re: getting started, the what's and how's

Hi Donna, yes I do remember and I still have a Raku kiln and the plans, do you want to get in touch with me and I will
give you a copy, also I had fun getting this kiln to S/W temp one day I used a piece of steel pipe and a blower to do
it I found it was so exciting with the flames leaping out of the chimney, but the bricks started to self glaze and the
pipe started to melt, but what a great day that was. Elaine still in clay. "DKat"
<disisdkatspam@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:4509a926$1_4@marge.ic.sunysb.edu... [quote:273e1f1600]I don't
suppose you remember how that kiln was built? I fire electric now but cannot hear the word raku without drooling (it is
associated with plum wine, good food, good company and good times). You actually fired using wood and house bricks. I
didn't know that could be done... If you remember anything, please share! Donna "Elaine Coggins"
<nospam@emcoggins.com> wrote in message news:12gj7c7et43ij6f@corp.supernews.com... Hi Donna, you reminded me of
what I started with 32 years ago. I had my classes learning pottery in Sydney, then moved to Queensland, my first wheel
was a stand at kick wheel, the kiln was a raku kiln built out of house bricks and these two items I used for 7 years, I
learned a lot about the way of clay and firing with wood in that time. I must say I still love it all. In clay again
Elaine "DKat" <disisdkatspam@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:45096edc$1_1@marge.ic.sunysb.edu...
That pretty much makes my information useless (cheapest place I found for kiln, wheel, etc.). I do agree that think
looking for used equipment, starting small, building what you can on your own, etc. is a good idea. If there is a potter
near by whose work you like, you can apprentice yourself out to them. I have never known a potter that is not creative
in making something out of nothing. Remember that pottery has been done for 10s of thousands of years (long before
electricity and fancy big wood burning kilns). Starting with the most primative methods can teach you alot about your
material and the craft. Try doing pit firirng for example. All those old credit cards make great ribs and cleanup
tools. Old guitar string or any wire tied to coat buttons, large washers, sticks, etc. makes for a wonderful cutting
string (in fact with twisting 2 or more wires together you can make the pattern of the cut that you like). Learn to
look at kitchen or garage odds and ends with clay in mind. Go to garage sales and keep an eye out for things that make
patterns, can cut, or just have a shape you like. Start out doing slab and coil work. You really don't need a 5K studio
to do pottery. I spent about half that for a new kiln and wheel. I bought new because I knew exactly what I wanted,
and a variety of other reasons (mostly a treat to myself after spending many years moving from place to place and
wanting to no longer be dependent on local studio space). I don't know if you have L&L kilns there (I suspect not).
I bought a short and wide kiln. I know my work well enough to know that I'm not going to be throwing a piece taller
than a foot and a half (if I did it would be fired on it's side) but that I do like really wide pieces (garden platters)
so I wanted to be sure the kiln was wide enough. My kiln interior measures 28"WX18"H. It has almost as much
cubic space as the typical tall kiln and I can fire more than one plate at a time on a shelf. http://www.hotkilns.com/
easy-fire-e28S.html (I got this kiln for much less - look around before you buy). I learned to throw on a Shimpo and
have never come across a wheel I like better. When they came out with the Whisper (it really is silent), I knew this
was what I wanted. Basically what I'm trying to get at is that only you can know yourself well enough to know what is
going to fit your needs. If you don't have a feel for that yet, hold off on buying what can be really expensive
equipment. At the same time don't be timid (unless it suits you), pottery is a craft that feeds the soul for life.
Good luck! Let us hear from you please. Donna _. "GO" <Garageoffice@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:4508f221@quokka.wn.com.au... In Australia. Elaine Coggins wrote: G'Day Go, It all depends where you live!!! Yours
in clay Elaine. "GO" <Garageoffice@gmail.com> wrote in message news:4507f841$1@quokka.wn.com.au... Hi
all, Any idea on the cost of getting started with making my own pottery? Interested in getting a kiln, potter wheel
and various tools. Comments appreciated. GO [/quote:273e1f1600]

back to top


View entire thread: getting started, the what's and how's
Posted by DKat on Thu Sep 14, 2006 8:10 PM    Post subject: Re: getting started, the what's and how's

I don't suppose you remember how that kiln was built? I fire electric now but cannot hear the word raku without
drooling (it is associated with plum wine, good food, good company and good times). You actually fired using wood and
house bricks. I didn't know that could be done... If you remember anything, please share! Donna "Elaine
Coggins" <nospam@emcoggins.com> wrote in message news:12gj7c7et43ij6f@corp.supernews.com...
[quote:0a3058f6c8]Hi Donna, you reminded me of what I started with 32 years ago. I had my classes learning pottery in
Sydney, then moved to Queensland, my first wheel was a stand at kick wheel, the kiln was a raku kiln built out of house
bricks and these two items I used for 7 years, I learned a lot about the way of clay and firing with wood in that time.
I must say I still love it all. In clay again Elaine "DKat" <disisdkatspam@hotmail.com> wrote in
message news:45096edc$1_1@marge.ic.sunysb.edu... That pretty much makes my information useless (cheapest place I found
for kiln, wheel, etc.). I do agree that think looking for used equipment, starting small, building what you can on your
own, etc. is a good idea. If there is a potter near by whose work you like, you can apprentice yourself out to them. I
have never known a potter that is not creative in making something out of nothing. Remember that pottery has been done
for 10s of thousands of years (long before electricity and fancy big wood burning kilns). Starting with the most
primative methods can teach you alot about your material and the craft. Try doing pit firirng for example. All those
old credit cards make great ribs and cleanup tools. Old guitar string or any wire tied to coat buttons, large washers,
sticks, etc. makes for a wonderful cutting string (in fact with twisting 2 or more wires together you can make the
pattern of the cut that you like). Learn to look at kitchen or garage odds and ends with clay in mind. Go to garage
sales and keep an eye out for things that make patterns, can cut, or just have a shape you like. Start out doing slab
and coil work. You really don't need a 5K studio to do pottery. I spent about half that for a new kiln and wheel. I
bought new because I knew exactly what I wanted, and a variety of other reasons (mostly a treat to myself after spending
many years moving from place to place and wanting to no longer be dependent on local studio space). I don't know if you
have L&L kilns there (I suspect not). I bought a short and wide kiln. I know my work well enough to know that I'm
not going to be throwing a piece taller than a foot and a half (if I did it would be fired on it's side) but that I do
like really wide pieces (garden platters) so I wanted to be sure the kiln was wide enough. My kiln interior measures
28"WX18"H. It has almost as much cubic space as the typical tall kiln and I can fire more than one plate at a
time on a shelf. http://www.hotkilns.com/easy-fire-e28S.html (I got this kiln for much less - look around before you
buy). I learned to throw on a Shimpo and have never come across a wheel I like better. When they came out with the
Whisper (it really is silent), I knew this was what I wanted. Basically what I'm trying to get at is that only you can
know yourself well enough to know what is going to fit your needs. If you don't have a feel for that yet, hold off on
buying what can be really expensive equipment. At the same time don't be timid (unless it suits you), pottery is a
craft that feeds the soul for life. Good luck! Let us hear from you please. Donna _. "GO"
<Garageoffice@gmail.com> wrote in message news:4508f221@quokka.wn.com.au... In Australia. Elaine Coggins wrote:
G'Day Go, It all depends where you live!!! Yours in clay Elaine. "GO" <Garageoffice@gmail.com> wrote in
message news:4507f841$1@quokka.wn.com.au... Hi all, Any idea on the cost of getting started with making my own pottery?
Interested in getting a kiln, potter wheel and various tools. Comments appreciated. GO [/quote:0a3058f6c8]

back to top


View entire thread: getting started, the what's and how's
Posted by Elaine Coggins on Thu Sep 14, 2006 7:20 PM    Post subject: Re: getting started, the what's and how's

Hi Donna, you reminded me of what I started with 32 years ago. I had my classes learning pottery in Sydney, then moved
to Queensland, my first wheel was a stand at kick wheel, the kiln was a raku kiln built out of house bricks and these
two items I used for 7 years, I learned a lot about the way of clay and firing with wood in that time. I must say I
still love it all. In clay again Elaine "DKat" <disisdkatspam@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:45096edc$1_1@marge.ic.sunysb.edu... [quote:5ed909691d]That pretty much makes my information useless (cheapest place
I found for kiln, wheel, etc.). I do agree that think looking for used equipment, starting small, building what you can
on your own, etc. is a good idea. If there is a potter near by whose work you like, you can apprentice yourself out to
them. I have never known a potter that is not creative in making something out of nothing. Remember that pottery has
been done for 10s of thousands of years (long before electricity and fancy big wood burning kilns). Starting with the
most primative methods can teach you alot about your material and the craft. Try doing pit firirng for example. All
those old credit cards make great ribs and cleanup tools. Old guitar string or any wire tied to coat buttons, large
washers, sticks, etc. makes for a wonderful cutting string (in fact with twisting 2 or more wires together you can make
the pattern of the cut that you like). Learn to look at kitchen or garage odds and ends with clay in mind. Go to garage
sales and keep an eye out for things that make patterns, can cut, or just have a shape you like. Start out doing slab
and coil work. You really don't need a 5K studio to do pottery. I spent about half that for a new kiln and wheel. I
bought new because I knew exactly what I wanted, and a variety of other reasons (mostly a treat to myself after spending
many years moving from place to place and wanting to no longer be dependent on local studio space). I don't know if you
have L&L kilns there (I suspect not). I bought a short and wide kiln. I know my work well enough to know that I'm
not going to be throwing a piece taller than a foot and a half (if I did it would be fired on it's side) but that I do
like really wide pieces (garden platters) so I wanted to be sure the kiln was wide enough. My kiln interior measures
28"WX18"H. It has almost as much cubic space as the typical tall kiln and I can fire more than one plate at a
time on a shelf. http://www.hotkilns.com/easy-fire-e28S.html (I got this kiln for much less - look around before you
buy). I learned to throw on a Shimpo and have never come across a wheel I like better. When they came out with the
Whisper (it really is silent), I knew this was what I wanted. Basically what I'm trying to get at is that only you can
know yourself well enough to know what is going to fit your needs. If you don't have a feel for that yet, hold off on
buying what can be really expensive equipment. At the same time don't be timid (unless it suits you), pottery is a
craft that feeds the soul for life. Good luck! Let us hear from you please. Donna _. "GO"
<Garageoffice@gmail.com> wrote in message news:4508f221@quokka.wn.com.au... In Australia. Elaine Coggins wrote:
G'Day Go, It all depends where you live!!! Yours in clay Elaine. "GO" <Garageoffice@gmail.com> wrote in
message news:4507f841$1@quokka.wn.com.au... Hi all, Any idea on the cost of getting started with making my own pottery?
Interested in getting a kiln, potter wheel and various tools. Comments appreciated. GO [/quote:5ed909691d]

back to top


View entire thread: getting started, the what's and how's
Posted by DKat on Thu Sep 14, 2006 4:01 PM    Post subject: Re: getting started, the what's and how's

That pretty much makes my information useless (cheapest place I found for kiln, wheel, etc.). I do agree that think
looking for used equipment, starting small, building what you can on your own, etc. is a good idea. If there is a
potter near by whose work you like, you can apprentice yourself out to them. I have never known a potter that is not
creative in making something out of nothing. Remember that pottery has been done for 10s of thousands of years (long
before electricity and fancy big wood burning kilns). Starting with the most primative methods can teach you alot
about your material and the craft. Try doing pit firirng for example. All those old credit cards make great ribs and
cleanup tools. Old guitar string or any wire tied to coat buttons, large washers, sticks, etc. makes for a wonderful
cutting string (in fact with twisting 2 or more wires together you can make the pattern of the cut that you like).
Learn to look at kitchen or garage odds and ends with clay in mind. Go to garage sales and keep an eye out for things
that make patterns, can cut, or just have a shape you like. Start out doing slab and coil work. You really don't
need a 5K studio to do pottery. I spent about half that for a new kiln and wheel. I bought new because I knew exactly
what I wanted, and a variety of other reasons (mostly a treat to myself after spending many years moving from place to
place and wanting to no longer be dependent on local studio space). I don't know if you have L&L kilns there (I
suspect not). I bought a short and wide kiln. I know my work well enough to know that I'm not going to be throwing a
piece taller than a foot and a half (if I did it would be fired on it's side) but that I do like really wide pieces
(garden platters) so I wanted to be sure the kiln was wide enough. My kiln interior measures 28"WX18"H. It
has almost as much cubic space as the typical tall kiln and I can fire more than one plate at a time on a shelf.
http://www.hotkilns.com/easy-fire-e28S.html (I got this kiln for much less - look around before you buy). I learned to
throw on a Shimpo and have never come across a wheel I like better. When they came out with the Whisper (it really is
silent), I knew this was what I wanted. Basically what I'm trying to get at is that only you can know yourself well
enough to know what is going to fit your needs. If you don't have a feel for that yet, hold off on buying what can be
really expensive equipment. At the same time don't be timid (unless it suits you), pottery is a craft that feeds the
soul for life. Good luck! Let us hear from you please. Donna _. "GO" <Garageoffice@gmail.com> wrote
in message news:4508f221@quokka.wn.com.au... [quote:00cb7b8201]In Australia. Elaine Coggins wrote: G'Day Go, It all
depends where you live!!! Yours in clay Elaine. "GO" <Garageoffice@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:4507f841$1@quokka.wn.com.au... Hi all, Any idea on the cost of getting started with making my own pottery?
Interested in getting a kiln, potter wheel and various tools. Comments appreciated. GO [/quote:00cb7b8201]

back to top


View entire thread: carving wax formulas
Posted by Anonymous on Thu Jul 20, 2006 10:59 PM    Post subject: Re: carving wax formulas

mj72 wrote: [quote:f9438a70bf]Hello, can someone please send me carving wax formulas? tnx. [/quote:f9438a70bf] I
thought that plain beeswax was used for carving, unfortunately I don't have experience in this craft to offer any
further recommendation.

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View entire thread: Inspiring Craft Designs
Posted by Anonymous on Mon Oct 09, 2006 5:42 AM    Post subject: Inspiring Craft Designs

Hi all, Just wanted to share a new craft gallery i recently stumbled upon : http://www.designstolove.com Here's a
short description from the site : DesignsToLove is an online craft gallery dedicated to helping craft enthusiasts from
around the world connect, showcase their work, share their passion, learn from each other and have heaps of fun. I've
setup a gallery and found it to be really easy. It's definately a good place to showcase and promote your work. Hope
you'll find this useful. Angela

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View entire thread: nail art pattern
Posted by margs on Wed Nov 08, 2006 5:23 AM    Post subject: nail art pattern

I saw a wall plaque once that was a wooden cutout of a rooster. Then it was filled in with different types and sizes of
nails hammered into the wood. I would like to know if anyone has a pattern for this type of craft and what it might be
called. Thanks.

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View entire thread: paper marbling- does anyone know what is needed (or where to
Posted by butterfly7 on Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:04 PM    Post subject: paper marbling- does anyone know what is needed (or where to

Hi I did marbling in school and I am trying to get hold of a supplier of the products or someone who can tell me what I
need? I know that there is a floater liquid and the paints - but what is specifically needed? Please reply as I want
to start doing this craft again, there were old posts on this subject but any contacts on where to get the equipment and
what is needed would be helpful!! Thanks Butterfly

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View entire thread: Woodburning Gourds
Posted by Jewel Aye on Mon Jul 10, 2006 11:44 PM    Post subject: Re: Woodburning Gourds

In article <Kfusg.14$Sk5.10@fe06.lga>, cris@noinfo.com says... [quote:ff50b0bdb7] I need a woodburning and/or
gourd guru here. Just started doing this and have a couple of questions: [/quote:ff50b0bdb7] There are professional
woodburning tools that are totally different from those sold in craft stores in kit form. Don't overlook the value of
fine rotary carving tools. Most gourd artists I know rely on them for scroll work and other type carving rather than
using woodburners - or as another option to woodburners. Dental drills are highly valued for gourd carving.

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View entire thread: Chemical or method to etch/frost lucite or other clear plast
Posted by sam on Mon Jul 03, 2006 6:43 AM    Post subject: Re: Chemical or method to etch/frost lucite or other clear p

"Jimmie D" <jimmiedee@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:HW2pg.80472$qd2.37963@bignews6.bellsouth.net... [quote:fde89932f8] "z" <gzuckier@snail-mail.net>
wrote in message news:1151358554.364841.262790@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... Mark Thorson wrote: Doc wrote: What
would you recommend to give one side of a clear sheet like lucite or plexi a "frosted" appearance? Could you
use paper instead? Yeah, something translucent like rice paper. Normally this is done with sandblasting.
[/quote:fde89932f8] There is an 'etching paste' used by folks working with stain glass and monogramming (drinking)
glasses. It is a less harsh alternative to sandblasting. Check your local craft supply store.

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View entire thread: Chemical or method to etch/frost lucite or other clear plast
Posted by Don Stauffer on Thu Jun 22, 2006 2:53 PM    Post subject: Re: Chemical or method to etch/frost lucite or other clear p

RAM³ wrote: [quote:61d3896e85]"Doc" <docsavage20@xhotmail.comx> wrote in message
news:hcfmg.9253$o4.8226@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net... What would you recommend to give one side of a clear sheet
like lucite or plexi a "frosted" appearance? I need it to be as even as possible - i.e. without visible
striations/unevenness when held up to light, and little or as tiny a grain as possible (*no* grain would be ideal) for
projecting an image onto one side. I thought about sandblasting, is there an off the shelf chemical that would do this?
Thanks for all input. How about simply buying frosted Lucite sheets? http://www.lucitecp.com/Myst.asp comes in
clear and colors... Or sand the surface with #400 or #600 paper. Or, craft stores sell a[/quote:61d3896e85] spray
can of stuff made to frost windows and lamp panes.

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View entire thread: Repousse Work vintage manual raised work 1880s FA
Posted by JaneyP on Sat Jun 10, 2006 12:08 AM    Post subject: Repousse Work vintage manual raised work 1880s FA

Repousse Work,Being the Art of Ornamenting Thin Metal with Raised Figures ,by L L Haslope Pub. Upcott Gill Strand London
VGC.109 pages.Undated ,but i believe to be late 1880s. Extremely rare book superb illustrations ,some lovely fold outs,
gilt decorated boards ..lovley vintage craft manual.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7037502567&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

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View entire thread: Jewelry & Enamelling vintage manual 1947 FA
Posted by JaneyP on Fri May 12, 2006 11:23 PM    Post subject: Jewelry & Enamelling vintage manual 1947 FA

Jewelry & Enamelling by Greta Pack 1947 Original owners inscriptions,scuff to edge of spine ,but otherwise a nice
clean & solid copy.377 pages. This appears to be a proper trade manual as opposed to a hobbyists book.It is hugely
comprehensive,and goes through every task of the jewellers craft in great detail.Packed with pictures,plans
illustrations and straightforward instruction.. Some headings:- Central figures/Wirework /Mounting plate /Annealing
/Pickling /Piercing /Soldering with soft/hard solder /Metal casting in cuttle bone /Chasing /Repouse /Stone setting
/Enamelling /Carving /Wireworking /Dopms,balls & stamped forms etc etc
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7028525783&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

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View entire thread: Crafts for Elderly in Cherokee NC
Posted by One Cool Coder on Sun May 07, 2006 8:35 PM    Post subject: Crafts for Elderly in Cherokee NC

Hey everyone, I am going on a missions trip to Cherokee, North Carolina, and we are going to be doing a craft with
the elderly at two local community centers. It would be nice for the craft to be somewhat small (2-3 hours) but
something that they would use or be proud of making. If anyone has any craft ideas, it would be much appreciated.
Thanks

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View entire thread: HSS Split Dies
Posted by F. George McDuffee on Wed Oct 18, 2006 5:31 PM    Post subject: Re: HSS Split Dies

On 17 Oct 2006 14:30:16 -0700, "Addy" <adityaduggal@gmail.com> wrote: [quote:53ee483431]Hi Everyone, I
am new to groups thing and so please don't flame me for asking this question if its in the wrong place. I am looking
for making HSS Split dies in my tool room, but I have no idea what so ever how would I go about it. I will state what I
have in my tool room... 1) Vertical Milling Machine 2) Centreless Grinder 3) Surface Grinder 4) Bench Grinder 5) Heat
treatment capability for HSS 6) Above all the raw material for HSS dies 7) Bandsaw machine I would like to have some
help from you ppl for as to how to make a split die from Round bars of HSS. Which machine is not available with me which
is required for making HSS split dies. I know that these dies are available in the market for cheap but I want to make
one on my own for my experience. Also I would like to know what international standards are required to know the best
tolerance for these dies? Is there a place where I could get these standards for free. What measuring instruments are
required to measure the pitch of these dies once they are built? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in
advance. =================[/quote:53ee483431] From the old machining books, at one time it was expected that as part of
their apprenticeship, machinists/mechanics would make a set of taps and dies for their "kit." HSS is of
benefit only if the tool is operated at a high enough speed so that it becomes hot enough to "pull the temper"
of a high-carbon tool, which is unlikely with a hand operated tap or die. While I have not verified this, the
literature indicates that high carbon steel is actually (or can be made) harder than HSS, and gives a better surface
finish than HSS, all other things being equal, albeit at a much lower SFM. You actually have far more equipment than
you need. The suggested materials, assuming you don't want to forge your own blanks from high carbon steel, and/or
case/pack harden is drill rod [silver steel]. In the US this is available in 3 grades, W1, O1, and A1, standing for
the quenching medium, i.e. W for water/brine, O for oil, and A for air. The price roughly doubles for each increase
from W to O to A. Drill rod [silver steel] is essentially high carbon steel in the annealed condition. Heat
treating may be your biggest challange, and a whole seperate topic. However, the oldtimers did manage to do this, even
with case/pack hardening of mild steel. What is not recorded is how many pieces they ruined before they got one right.
I suggest using A1 as the scaling will be much less if you can use a stainless steel wrap or heat under salt/flux, and
the distortion is minimal as only an "air" quench, possibly a fan blowing on the part while still in the
stainless steel wrap or covered with flux/salt is required for full hardness. I suggest you buy some of the old maching
books now available as reprints. Even if you don't make any dies, these are a good read, and will greatly increase your
respect for the people in the craft before us. (At least they did for me.) "Advance Machine Work" by Smith
has 2 pages (12-80, 12-81) on making dies, but this requires a "relieving attachment." Given that dies were
being made and successfuly used far earlier than "relieving attachments" this does not appear to be necessary,
although helpful. Some of the other reprints also show elaborate mechanisms to slightly alter the thread lead on a
lathe, e.g. from 20 TPI to 20.01 TPI or 19.09 TPI. Apparently you made a tap or die, hardened it, measured the lead,
and then went back and made another one, this time adjusting the "lead compensator" for the change in lead due
to hardening. see: http://lindsaybks.com/ <home> http://lindsaybks.com/bks/advmach/index.html <Smith>
http://lindsaybks.com/bks4/ln4/index.html <adjusting thread leads> http://lindsaybks.com/bks4/jrose/index.html
<Rose -- may be your best bet> Let us know how you make out. Unka' George (George McDuffee)
............................... Only in Britain could it be thought a defect to be "too clever by half." The
probability is that too many people are too stupid by three-quarters. John Major (b. 1943), British Conservative
politician, prime minister. Quoted in: Observer (London, 7 July 1991).

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View entire thread: Coloring PVC pipe?
Posted by Koz on Mon Oct 02, 2006 9:09 PM    Post subject: Re: Coloring PVC pipe?

Bill Marrs wrote: [quote:954d597c74]I Googled this, but didn't come up with much of use. Got a project that uses a
BUNCH (10,000+) of short pieces of white PVC pipe. Just your regular run-of-the-mill potable water PVC. Problem is
there are 2 different sizes, and getting them mixed up is an issue. Should have made one size out of gray PVC
electrical conduit---my hindsight is still 20-20. SO----I want to dye one size a different color. ANY color. Around
4,000 pcs, 2.5" long. Just a dunk and stir, cold process if possible. What's out there in a permanent, cheap,
safe, easy to find and easy to use dye that will color rigid PVC? Thanks, Bill Maybe touch with the purple PVC
primer to make a mark? Touch inside so[/quote:954d597c74] it doesn't show unless you are looking? FOr that matter,
magic marker on a cut edge might work...or you could get a large stamp pad and just touch cut edge on pad to color.
Permanent color over the whole thing would probably require something that has a solvent effect on the pipe surface.
You might be able to color a "light" solvent with an oil-based dye for dipping....check out oil-based cake
coloring dyes at Michael's or other craft store. They are REALLY concentrated so if you can find a solvent that will
flash off and leave the dye sticking, it won't take much dye to get a color difference. I'd be a little wary though
because of the usual flash point issues as well as gettin wasted on fumes. Koz

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View entire thread: Recycling Bicycle Spokes
Posted by Nate Knutson on Mon Sep 11, 2006 8:17 PM    Post subject: Re: Recycling Bicycle Spokes

The Dougster wrote: [quote:e507761f34]Would universal use of straight gage S-bend spokes instead of headed spokes be a
change that would encourage recycling of spokes, rims, wheels, and bicycles? Recycling is big with bicyclists. Would it
also provide a safety problem? Do such spokes eventually unbend or loosen? Would S-bend spokes work with automatic wheel
builders? It seems that they would be easier to use with such equipment. [/quote:e507761f34] I have no idea what the in-
use mechanical properties of an s-bent spoke would be. I don't think existing wheelbuilding machines could handle it,
but that's pretty much besides the point since wheelbuilding machines and machine-built wheels as they exist are all
about making a product built to sell, rather than appropriate use of resources. Putting these bends in spokes and
maintaining an accurate length, necessary for wheelbuilding, would pretty much require a fixture of some sort, and at
that point it would probably make more sense just to have a little machine that squashed new heads onto the spokes, as
it's done in the factory (as I understand it). 2 more issues with recycling spokes: they also should have gotten their
angle adjusted near the nipple in many cases, allowing them the oppurtunity to have accumulated too much stress there to
be useful in the future if they weren't. However, even if the angle was adjusted, what it gets set to is quite specific
to the wheel, more so than at the hub. Think in terms of the different ERD's and cross patterns a given length of spoke
might be used for. Also, stress relief probably also affects built-in stresses in the threads themselves. Between these
2 other issues and the fact that it's only a minority of trashed wheels out there with spokes you'd even want to
consider any of this with, and I don't think what you propose is very practical. Focus on the fact that wheels with
reasonable quality components, including hubs that are well-designed and built for indefinite use such as Campy, Shimano
(arguable but I think so), Phil, King, etc, quality spokes, and quality rims are amazingly efficient and durable when
built and maintained right. Hubs and spokes can last basically forever, if the wheel is built right and the hub is
maintained, and rims need only be replaced due to violence, brake track wear in rim brake wheels, and extreme fatigue in
hub brake wheels. The hard part of this equation to get right today is rims, because current rims kinda suck in terms of
being utiliitarian, economical, and as long-lived as possible, but fairly suitable rims are out there. This approach,
wheels that are suitable for serious transportation indefinitely for a fairly low overall cost in terms of resources,
makes much more sense to me than going to great lengths to try and turn wheels that were never even meant to be ridden
all that much into something they're not. Most of the hubs will be damaged from not being set up and maintained right,
and many of the rims will have some damage as well. [quote:e507761f34]Some artists recycle spokes into craft
productions like bracelets, key rings, etc. Do double-threaded spokes recycle well? Was that the intent for that
variety, or was there another reason? The Dougster (I) wrote: Any thoughts, pro, con, or tech? Doug Goncz Replikon
Research Seven Corners, VA 22044-0394[/quote:e507761f34]

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View entire thread: Recycling Bicycle Spokes
Posted by The Dougster on Sun Sep 10, 2006 9:53 PM    Post subject: Re: Recycling Bicycle Spokes

Okay...the consensus is in 6 replies visible is that stainless is the thing to recycle for sure, and we have some debate
on whether inboard and outboard spokes should be separated for reuse. I am thinking S-bend spokes would be highly
recyclable. Nip to length, form new bends, and reuse. There'd be no need to own or operate a threader. Just a pair of
special pliers, quick and easy. Preserve the threaded end. The Eldi Emergency Spoke Tool, no longer available, comes to
mind. I'm looking around for a 14-15 gage S-bend plier tool. I have found a 15 gage tool used by model airfcraft
hobbyists, and ordered it. There is a Z-bend tool used by hobbyists for wire to 0.062. Spoke wire sizes are 0.072 and
0.081, I think. Would universal use of straight gage S-bend spokes instead of headed spokes be a change that would
encourage recycling of spokes, rims, wheels, and bicycles? Recycling is big with bicyclists. Would it also provide a
safety problem? Do such spokes eventually unbend or loosen? Would S-bend spokes work with automatic wheel builders? It
seems that they would be easier to use with such equipment. Some artists recycle spokes into craft productions like
bracelets, key rings, etc. Do double-threaded spokes recycle well? Was that the intent for that variety, or was there
another reason? The Dougster (I) wrote: [quote:1678a83748]Any thoughts, pro, con, or tech? Doug Goncz Replikon
Research Seven Corners, VA 22044-0394[/quote:1678a83748]

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View entire thread: ISO compliance
Posted by Mark Fields on Thu Aug 31, 2006 4:14 AM    Post subject: Re: ISO compliance

This is a long post just delete if not interested. "Jerry Foster" <jmfoster711NOSPAM@sbcglobal.net>
wrote in message news:1KKHg.18140$o27.2753@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com... [quote:244c455c08] The only way you can be ISO
compliant is to be certified by an appropriate agency. And the big catch is that it is not about meeting some published
standards. What you are required to do is to develop your own standards/procedures and then follow them. Most
businesses get a copy of the ISO procedures from a couple similar businesses that are certified, and then write their
own using these as an example. Usually, a company will bring in an ISO consultant to help. Once your procedures are
approved, then you must be periodically audited to ensure you are, in fact, following them. Not true. You can be ISO
compliant, without a third party registrar. The[/quote:244c455c08] problem is, will your customer believe it? The
purpose of the third party registrar is to have an "independent" company look at your procedures. If a
company has a third party registrar examine their system, they issue a certificate stating you are ISO compliant. Your
customer should be interested in who is your registrar. There are good registrars and there are not so good. If you
want to hire a registrar, ask the registrat "Who audits you?". [quote:244c455c08] In a nutshell, ISO
requires that you write down how you are going to do things and then do things in the way you have written. Yes
absolutely true.[/quote:244c455c08] [quote:244c455c08] None of this is trivial. A typical set of ISO procedures for a
small operation runs to a few hundred pages. [/quote:244c455c08] This was more true of the ISO 9000: 1994 standard.
There is a fair amount of documentation but the emphasis of the standard changed with the 2000 revision. A good
audting company should now come in and observe and look for "IS this company DOING what they say they are
doing?". With the earlier standard, the auditors were checking "IS this company doing what they wrote in
their procedures?". This meant for an easy audit by the auditor, he could look for stupid minor variations in the
text, even typos, and call it a non-conformance. There was much abuse. It is no wonder a lot of people have great
misgivings and dislike for ISO. Anyway, on a group like this which is geared towards home and craft metalworking I
would be surprised to see many people enthused about ISO 9000. [quote:244c455c08] ISO is not a government program.
The certifying authority is set up and paid for by the certified businesses. You have to hire the auditors to come in
and audit you. Etc. [/quote:244c455c08] True, but a better statement would be "somebody" has to hire the
auditors. I have seen cases where a company wanted / needed a supplier to have an audit done and paid for a third
party registrar to come in and audit. The problem is, then the auditor is being paid for by your customer and likely
the audit could be biased (See below). [quote:244c455c08] ISO is largely about material and quality control. And, of
course, the payoff is that you can then sell to companies that require their vendors to be ISO certified. It is a
selling point. I worked for a company that had between 200 and 500[/quote:244c455c08] employees. We went through slow
times, built up to a larger company and then hit the rocks. We maintained ISO the entire time (since 1993). Since
then I went to a smaller company (< 40 employees) and we were registered in 6 months. With the first company, we
were not registered to ISO (but did have a quality manual and procedures) and this meant every time a new customer
wanted to do business with us, they would send in a team of auditors. Sometimes two people for 3-4 days, sometimes 4-6
people for one day. This was expensive for both companies. After ISO registration there was never another audit (by
customers) for 3 years. How many times do you try to get a customer's business, and are even told "your price is
good, but I want to think about it". This is a clue he doubts your ability to do the work, deliver on time, etc.
With the ISO registration it is one more thing that helps the customer decide. Sure I know nobody looks at a lamp at
Walmart and buys it because there is a UL symbol. But, how many people are buying a particular brand of beer or
driving a certain type of car because of an endorsement? The ISO registration is an endorsement of your company's
systems. [quote:244c455c08] And, no, I'm not an ISO expert. But I've worked for a couple companies that became ISO
certified while I was working there, so I got to watch (from a safe distance - I'm an engineer and most engineering
"stuff" isn't covered by ISO.). But it seemed to have occupied most of Production and QC Management's
attention for the better part of a year. [/quote:244c455c08] Mostly true, except your company probably went for ISO
9002 registration. If you are designing a product, then to have your company's systems to be ISO registered then the
design function includes three steps that must be assessed. Today, the ISO 9002 registration does not exist. If those
companies still have and ISO certificate, then they must in their scope state "...except excluding design"
if the the "engineering stuff" isn't included. To be honest, and don't take it personally, but a lot of
companies exclude their engineering departments because the discipline is not there to have an ISO system in place.
The basics are the engineering section must 1) initiate a design based on customer needs (i.e. design input), 2) have
an independent verification check the design against the design parameters, then - after it is turned over to
production and quality - 3) have a product assessed to see if the design was met (design output). What usually happens
is the engineering department spends a lot of effort working on #1, step #2 is not performed (so the shop floor catches
all the design flaws and makes a lot of scrap and rework) and then step #3 is not done so the customer finds out he is
not getting what he ordered. The reason #1 is emphazised is because overseeing all this is top management - they push
the engineering department to crank out more designs and don't expect the engineers to do #2 and #3.
[quote:244c455c08] Jerry [/quote:244c455c08] Sorry to be so long on this post, but the ultimate blame for unhappiness
and failure of ISO systems belongs with in your own companies and the problem lies at the top level of management.
Usually the owner or CEO "wants ISO" but will not walk the talk. That is why the small companies compete so
well, the business owner is involved and makes good decisions. If there is a profit and the company is doing well,
this means either 1) there is a system in place and there is no need to have a third party auditor, or 2) you are
doing something very unique and there's no competition so you can charge as much as you need to cover a poor system.
Mark

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View entire thread: wrought iron
Posted by Steve B on Thu Aug 24, 2006 12:12 AM    Post subject: Re: wrought iron

"MikeMandaville" <MikeMandaville@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1156352441.195711.286410@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com... [quote:d4e47fb31b]This poster's answer is EXACTLY what I
am talking about. "Beating a dead horse." Mental masturbation. The majority of people here understand
what's being said and talked about. And then there are always the intellectuals that try to correct everyone. Why
aren't you an English professor if you're so good? Who here does not understand that when someone mentions wrought
iron, they are talking about the modern ornamental metal, and not the handforged, hand wrought metal of past centuries?
Everyone except Mr. Mandaville, I guess. Steve Steve, this newsgroup was chartered for the specific purpose of passing
along information regarding the recreational craft of metalworking, and when the originator of this discussion requested
specific information regarding how to make wrought iron, that is precisely what I did. Therefore, for you to label my
behaviour in this action as being one of "mental masturbation" is not only wrong, it is a violation of the
intention of this discussion, this newsgroup, and your internet service provider's terms of service. Before I report
you, do you have anything more to say about this? [/quote:d4e47fb31b] Yes. Definitely. That what you thought I said
was not what I said, but merely what you think I said, which was not what I had intended to say, or even really said.
And that what you heard was not what I said, but merely what you wanted to hear. I hope this clears things up. Report
me to who? Whom? Steve

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View entire thread: wrought iron
Posted by Dave Hinz on Wed Aug 23, 2006 6:05 PM    Post subject: Re: wrought iron

On 23 Aug 2006 10:00:41 -0700, MikeMandaville <MikeMandaville@aol.com> wrote: [quote:e0a20adc09]Steve, this
newsgroup was chartered for the specific purpose of passing along information regarding the recreational craft of
metalworking, and when the originator of this discussion requested specific information regarding how to make wrought
iron, that is precisely what I did. [/quote:e0a20adc09] Right. Wrought Iron is a specific thing, modern work using
something else, is not that thing. So Steve is out of line in that regard. [quote:e0a20adc09]Therefore, for you to
label my behaviour in this action as being one of "mental masturbation" is not only wrong, it is a violation
of the intention of this discussion, this newsgroup, and your internet service provider's terms of service. Before I
report you, do you have anything more to say about this? [/quote:e0a20adc09] However, I think you're overreacting on
this aspect of your response.

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View entire thread: wrought iron
Posted by MikeMandaville on Wed Aug 23, 2006 6:00 PM    Post subject: Re: wrought iron

[quote:37de16ca93]This poster's answer is EXACTLY what I am talking about. "Beating a dead horse." Mental
masturbation. The majority of people here understand what's being said and talked about. And then there are always the
intellectuals that try to correct everyone. Why aren't you an English professor if you're so good? Who here does not
understand that when someone mentions wrought iron, they are talking about the modern ornamental metal, and not the
handforged, hand wrought metal of past centuries? Everyone except Mr. Mandaville, I guess. Steve [/quote:37de16ca93]
Steve, this newsgroup was chartered for the specific purpose of passing along information regarding the recreational
craft of metalworking, and when the originator of this discussion requested specific information regarding how to make
wrought iron, that is precisely what I did. Therefore, for you to label my behaviour in this action as being one of
"mental masturbation" is not only wrong, it is a violation of the intention of this discussion, this
newsgroup, and your internet service provider's terms of service. Before I report you, do you have anything more to say
about this?

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View entire thread: Reading Material for Newbie
Posted by Trevor Jones on Fri Aug 18, 2006 12:24 AM    Post subject: Re: Reading Material for Newbie

F. George McDuffee wrote: [quote:1558fdec70]On 17 Aug 2006 14:32:41 -0700, "Moot" <hformoot@yahoo.com>
wrote: I just purchased a used Smithy 3 in 1 mill/lathe/drill press to make some parts for my hobbies. I'm very
mechanically inclined, and have already created some working parts, but I want to expand on my machining knowledge.
There are so many books out there, and I've spent the last two days worth of free time trying to figure out what books
would be best. I'm looking for books that explain techniques and tooling used in the milling and lathe machines....any
recommendations? Thanks, Moot ==================== Welcome to the craft. See: http://www.mcduffee-
associates.us/machining/machining_books.htm most of the entries have hot links. As indicated I think Milne is one of
the best to start with. Remember that many of the old time machinists had shop names like "Three Finger
Fred," "Stubby," and "One Eye" Safety was not a priority item in the older books. As a home
shop machinist you will most likely find that the older books are the most useful as you will seldom use PCD [poly
crystaline diamond] tooling or do hard turning at 20K RPM. Unka George (George McDuffee) ...and at the end of the
fight is a tombstone white with the name of the late deceased, and the epitaph drear: “A Fool lies here, who tried to
hustle the East.” Rudyard Kipling The Naulahka, ch. 5, heading (1892). [/quote:1558fdec70] That reminds me. The
author Tubal Cain is a good one too! The book in the list above is good, as is Workholding in the Lathe, published by
the same group. Cheers Trevor Jones

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View entire thread: Reading Material for Newbie
Posted by F. George McDuffee on Fri Aug 18, 2006 12:16 AM    Post subject: Re: Reading Material for Newbie

On 17 Aug 2006 14:32:41 -0700, "Moot" <hformoot@yahoo.com> wrote: [quote:0103236dd1]I just purchased a
used Smithy 3 in 1 mill/lathe/drill press to make some parts for my hobbies. I'm very mechanically inclined, and have
already created some working parts, but I want to expand on my machining knowledge. There are so many books out there,
and I've spent the last two days worth of free time trying to figure out what books would be best. I'm looking for
books that explain techniques and tooling used in the milling and lathe machines....any recommendations? Thanks, Moot
====================[/quote:0103236dd1] Welcome to the craft. See: http://www.mcduffee-
associates.us/machining/machining_books.htm most of the entries have hot links. As indicated I think Milne is one of
the best to start with. Remember that many of the old time machinists had shop names like "Three Finger
Fred," "Stubby," and "One Eye" Safety was not a priority item in the older books. As a home
shop machinist you will most likely find that the older books are the most useful as you will seldom use PCD [poly
crystaline diamond] tooling or do hard turning at 20K RPM. Unka George (George McDuffee) ....and at the end of the
fight is a tombstone white with the name of the late deceased, and the epitaph drear: “A Fool lies here, who tried to
hustle the East.” Rudyard Kipling The Naulahka, ch. 5, heading (1892).

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View entire thread: [OT] Democracy and Its Discontents -- Birth pangs of freedom
Posted by Gunner on Mon Aug 14, 2006 11:36 PM    Post subject: Re: [OT] Family "values in the white house

On Mon, 14 Aug 2006 16:06:22 -0400, "tonyp" <tonyp@world.std.com> wrote: [quote:cd1ceb2ca7]
"Gunner" <gunner@lightspeed.net> wrote Barney Franks, who ran a gay prostitute ring from his DC
apartment Barney _Frank_, on the other hand, has been free of scandal longer than Dubya has been sober. Byrd..a
famous high ranking member of the Klu Klux Klan, Nancy Pelosi..who payed her way through law school as a prostitute and
of course Bubba himself, a rapist and murderer Dubya ... a famous cheerleader at Andover who flew high over the skies
of Alabama without an airplane [/quote:cd1ceb2ca7] But not long after flew over it for 6 yrs in a jet fighter craft.
[quote:cd1ceb2ca7] Deadeye Dick ... who sold Iran oil-field equipment and went on to greater glory as a soothsayer --
"we will be greeted as liberators" [/quote:cd1ceb2ca7] Oil field equipment was illegal to sell to an oil
producer? [quote:cd1ceb2ca7] DeLay ... a former exterminator who could not identify the cockroach in his shaving mirror
[/quote:cd1ceb2ca7] Cites? [quote:cd1ceb2ca7] Newt Gingrich ... divorcer of hospitalized first wives [/quote:cd1ceb2ca7]
True enough [quote:cd1ceb2ca7] Bill Bennet ... virtuous mega-gambler [/quote:cd1ceb2ca7] yes? This is illegal?
[quote:cd1ceb2ca7] Dukester ... bribes a la carte [/quote:cd1ceb2ca7] cites? [quote:cd1ceb2ca7] But you're right,
Gunner: no rapists or murderers in the GOP :-) -- TP Glad that we can agree that Your party is filled with viscious
murderour[/quote:cd1ceb2ca7] rapists and other similar people, while some of ours have committed some misdomeanors.
Good to see you are finally taking a deep look at the trash that makes up the DNC and its leadership. Gunner "I
think this is because of your belief in biological Marxism. As a genetic communist you feel that noticing behavioural
patterns relating to race would cause a conflict with your belief in biological Marxism." Big Pete, famous
Usenet Racist

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View entire thread: sheet metal forming
Posted by Ries on Sun Aug 06, 2006 3:02 AM    Post subject: Re: sheet metal forming

Here are a few more places- they sell tools, books, videos, and even teach workshops. These are three of the top guys in
the world- each one amazing in his own right, and very honorable. I have studied with Ron Fournier, and the man is a
wizard. This is a lifelong pursuit- with training, you can pick up quite a bit in a few day workshop, but the pros have
been doing this for 20 or 30 or 50 years- its a real craft, so dont expect to get perfect results first try.
http://www.tinmantech.com/ http://www.fournierenterprises.com/ http://www.covell.biz/

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View entire thread: The Future of Metalworking?
Posted by daclark on Fri Jul 21, 2006 1:57 AM    Post subject: Re: The Future of Metalworking?

Hello, this essay was originally posted on a number of sites, and attracted quite a bit of comment. It became too much
to track the comments and remember what had been said where, so I've relocate to a central location I have established
a new group for the discussion of the craft trades; woodworking, metalworking, sculpture, glassworks, pottery, etcetera;
and the topic of apprenticeship in the inherent occupations of man. If you would like to join this group of
professionals, as well as novices, in the discussion of the craft trades...use the link below. The site will be
moderated to keep the junk out. No off topic postings, no sales gimmicks, and no trashing the other guy's opinion...
daclark http://groups.google.com/group/senior-apprentice

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View entire thread: Stained Glass Craft Work etched silvered 1940
Posted by JaneyP on Tue Oct 31, 2006 1:06 AM    Post subject: Stained Glass Craft Work etched silvered 1940

Stained Glass Craft by JAF Divine & G Blatchford ,1940 ,ex lib. otherwise a good copy .115 pages. Really useful book
on the traditional craft of stained glass work,covers all apsects ,with many illustrations.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320042452836&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

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View entire thread: AD: Unique Craft Sites
Posted by george on Sat Oct 21, 2006 7:30 AM    Post subject: AD: Unique Craft Sites

You can add your craft related website free at http://www.giftsspace.com. Attract more unique visitors. Read tips to
enhance your site visibility.

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View entire thread: Vintage China Decoration 1950s painting FA
Posted by JaneyP on Tue Oct 17, 2006 12:18 AM    Post subject: Vintage China Decoration 1950s painting FA

China decoration by Kathleen Mann, ex lib ,but othwerwise a good sound copy. Really nice old craft manual on the
decorating of china in that fabulous 1950s style.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320037642371&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

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View entire thread: FA: The Painter's Pocket Book of Methods & Materials, 1977
Posted by Number1Fred on Thu Oct 12, 2006 10:21 PM    Post subject: FA: The Painter's Pocket Book of Methods & Materials, 1977

The Painter's Pocket Book of Methods & Materials by Hilaire Hiler First published more than 60 years ago, The
Painter's Pocket Book has held its place as an indispensable small reference book for practicing artists, providing in a
convenient form all the practical information they need in pursuing their complex craft. This edition was revised and
brought into line with new materials and techniques. Faber & Faber Ltd., London England, 1977, 3rd edition, 2nd
printing, 266 pages, 4 3/4" x 7 1/4", trade paperback.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=001&item=110043397392 Auction closes 10/19/06.

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View entire thread: Vintage Lino cut Craft 1949 FA
Posted by JaneyP on Sun Sep 24, 2006 12:54 AM    Post subject: Vintage Lino cut Craft 1949 FA

Your Lino Craft by Betty Dougherty ,Pub.Sylvan Press 1949 ,one library sticker on blank endpaper ,otherwise VGC 108
pages. Great little craft book ,really useful and with the most georgeous period illustrations.Nice condition.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320028329583&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

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View entire thread: Professional Leather craft Manual Vintage 1939 FA
Posted by JaneyP on Tue Sep 19, 2006 11:39 PM    Post subject: Professional Leather craft Manual Vintage 1939 FA

Leather Goods Manafacture ,A Practical Guide to Modern Methods & Processes by G C Moseley Good deal of
foxing,discoloured boards but otherwise a good solid copy.326 pages. 1939 Superb and hugely comprehensive vintage
manual. The difference (and there is a difference!) between this and many other leather work books you will see is that
this is a craft manual for the jobbing leather worker,whereas most of the others are hobbyists books,aimed at the person
who wants to knock out a few belts in his or her spare time. Mostly covers classic quality leatherwork goods,bags,cigar
cases,music cases, wallets, leather box work ,moulded leather goods etc etc.No hippy trinkets here!
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320028329433&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

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View entire thread: Professional Leather craft Manual Vintage 1939 FA
Posted by JaneyP on Tue Sep 19, 2006 11:38 PM    Post subject: Professional Leather craft Manual Vintage 1939 FA

Leather Goods Manafacture ,A Practical Guide to Modern Methods & Processes by G C Moseley Good deal of
foxing,discoloured boards but otherwise a good solid copy.326 pages. 1939 Superb and hugely comprehensive vintage
manual. The difference (and there is a difference!) between this and many other leather work books you will see is that
this is a craft manual for the jobbing leather worker,whereas most of the others are hobbyists books,aimed at the person
who wants to knock out a few belts in his or her spare time. Mostly covers classic quality leatherwork goods,bags,cigar
cases,music cases, wallets, leather box work ,moulded leather goods etc etc.No hippy trinkets here!
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320028329433&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

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View entire thread: Practical Taxidermy Taxidermist Montagu Browne 1880s FA
Posted by JaneyP on Fri Sep 15, 2006 11:16 PM    Post subject: Practical Taxidermy Taxidermist Montagu Browne 1880s FA

Practical Taxidermy - Manual of Instruction To The Amateur In Collecting ,Preserving And Setting Up Of Natural History
Specimens of All Sorts, In excellent condition, undated but I believe to date from mid 1880s approx. Georgeous and
lavish manual ,packed with wonderful period illustrations, covering all conceivable apsects of the craft.Very scarce.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320025435235&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

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View entire thread: Practical Taxidermy Taxidermist Montagu Browne 1880s FA
Posted by JaneyP on Fri Sep 15, 2006 11:15 PM    Post subject: Practical Taxidermy Taxidermist Montagu Browne 1880s FA

Practical Taxidermy - Manual of Instruction To The Amateur In Collecting ,Preserving And Setting Up Of Natural History
Specimens of All Sorts, In excellent condition, undated but I believe to date from mid 1880s approx. Georgeous and
lavish manual ,packed with wonderful period illustrations, covering all conceivable apsects of the craft.Very scarce.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320025435235&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

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View entire thread: Practical Taxidermy Montagu Browne 1880 s FA
Posted by JaneyP on Fri Sep 08, 2006 11:04 PM    Post subject: Practical Taxidermy Montagu Browne 1880 s FA

Practical Taxidermy - Manual of Instruction To The Amateur In Collecting ,Preserving And Setting Up Of Natural History
Specimens of All Sorts, In excellent condition, undated but I believe to date from mid 1880s approx. Georgeous and
lavish manual ,packed with wonderful period illustrations, covering all conceivable apsects of the craft.Very scarce.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320025435235&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

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View entire thread: Vintage manual on Veneering FA
Posted by JaneyP on Mon Aug 28, 2006 12:38 AM    Post subject: Vintage manual on Veneering FA

Veneering Simplified by Harry Jason Hobbs VGC 126 pages An American book and in the way that many American craft books
do ,it does it's job very well,being packed with detailed illustrations and good straightforward text.Very
comprehensive.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320021092259&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

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View entire thread: Vintage Jewellery Manual Jewelry craft manual 1948 FA
Posted by JaneyP on Sun Aug 27, 2006 12:12 AM    Post subject: Vintage Jewellery Manual Jewelry craft manual 1948 FA

Jewellery Repairingby William A Jackson 1948 Covers very grubby,ex lib. otherwise a good solid copy.143 pages. Really
useful little vintage jewellers craft manual ,very comprehensive,covers a host of jewellery related subjects (see
scans).
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320018406582&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

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View entire thread: Vintage Jewellery Manual Jewelry craft manual 1948 FA
Posted by JaneyP on Sun Aug 27, 2006 12:09 AM    Post subject: Vintage Jewellery Manual Jewelry craft manual 1948 FA

Jewellery Repairing by William A Jackson 1948 Covers very grubby,ex lib. otherwise a good solid copy.143 pages. Really
useful little vintage jewellers craft manual ,very comprehensive,covers a host of jewellery related subjects (see
scans).
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320018406582&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

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View entire thread: Links requried from craft sites
Posted by george on Sat Aug 19, 2006 12:55 PM    Post subject: Links requried from craft sites

Giftsspace.com accepts links from good craft related websites. visit www.giftsspace.com

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View entire thread: spam in rec.crafts.jewelry
Posted by Anonymous on Wed Oct 18, 2006 8:29 AM    Post subject: spam in rec.crafts.jewelry

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View entire thread: The Power of Being Established
Posted by Moonraker on Thu Oct 26, 2006 10:46 PM    Post subject: Re: The Power of Being Established

"Brock" <brockg@telus.net> wrote in message news:1161885440.767111.83810@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
[quote:ff02199207]Brock wrote: nJb wrote: dennis@debrady.com wrote: And while you are working on all those new websites?
Maybe you will run Maybe. Why don't you post some pics of your fusing so we can judge for ourselves who has the better
technique. Jack Oh, hey, allow me. Go here: http://www.debrady.com/ Then CATALOGUE Then KILN GLASS Wow, you're all
speechless! Must be in awe of the work, huh? [/quote:ff02199207] Well, it did make me short of breath...no, change that
to gagging. What a pitiful waste of perfectly good glass, eh? Looks like the output of some backwater vacation bible
school craft efforts.

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View entire thread: Good magazines - periodicals
Posted by glassman on Wed Sep 13, 2006 2:08 AM    Post subject: Re: Good magazines - periodicals

"Joe Beiter" <joe.beiter@gmail.com> wrote in message news:pan.2006.09.12.00.44.01.549215@gmail.com...
[quote:8c43014991]On Mon, 11 Sep 2006 07:14:05 -0400, glassman wrote: There aren't any worth a damn to a beginner.
snip How about for inspiration? Are there any industry rags specific to stained/leaded glass that you keep track of to
see what the contemporary masters of the craft are doing? [/quote:8c43014991] There's SG everywhere you look for
inspiration. Save your money and give GOOGLE a try. -- JK Sinrod www.SinrodStudios.com www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com

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View entire thread: Good magazines - periodicals
Posted by Anonymous on Tue Sep 12, 2006 3:19 AM    Post subject: Re: Good magazines - periodicals

Joe Beiter wrote: [quote:9bf891c8af]On Mon, 11 Sep 2006 07:14:05 -0400, glassman wrote: There aren't any worth a damn
to a beginner. snip How about for inspiration? Are there any industry rags specific to stained/leaded glass that you
keep track of to see what the contemporary masters of the craft are doing? [/quote:9bf891c8af] Stained Glass News Glass
Craftsman Glass Patterns Quarterly SGAA magazine Search for old issues of Professional Stained Glass (now defunct)
Glass Studio (also gone by the wayside) Search on google for glass artists...millions of hits. Andy
http://www.neoglassic.com

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View entire thread: Good magazines - periodicals
Posted by Moonraker on Tue Sep 12, 2006 2:22 AM    Post subject: Re: Good magazines - periodicals

"Joe Beiter" <joe.beiter@gmail.com> wrote in message news:pan.2006.09.12.00.44.01.549215@gmail.com...
[quote:75e3e9d4cf]On Mon, 11 Sep 2006 07:14:05 -0400, glassman wrote: There aren't any worth a damn to a beginner.
snip How about for inspiration? Are there any industry rags specific to stained/leaded glass that you keep track of to
see what the contemporary masters of the craft are doing? [/quote:75e3e9d4cf] Uhhh..Joe? We ARE the contemporary
masters of the craft. We just have to look on the workbench to see what we are doing.

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View entire thread: Good magazines - periodicals
Posted by Joe Beiter on Tue Sep 12, 2006 1:44 AM    Post subject: Re: Good magazines - periodicals

On Mon, 11 Sep 2006 07:14:05 -0400, glassman wrote: [quote:beec9a2179]There aren't any worth a damn to a beginner.
snip[/quote:beec9a2179] How about for inspiration? Are there any industry rags specific to stained/leaded glass that
you keep track of to see what the contemporary masters of the craft are doing?

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View entire thread: Best Way to sell Lead Supplies?
Posted by Kalera on Tue Aug 08, 2006 3:55 AM    Post subject: Re: Best Way to sell Lead Supplies?

Brock wrote: [quote:36c91d2bba]dennis@debrady.com wrote: You have nothing to tell me about glass, ancient or
contemporary, you hack. Go make another crappy little boat that falls apart. Brock Maybe later. Too busy now making
glass sushi dishes. Really. After stating repeatedly that the market for them is over! What you do is not even craft
Dennis, I call it crapft. Slumping a single layer of crappy Spectrum baroque into a simple mold. Wow! What skill. What
artisanship, Can't wait for the book . . . Brock [/quote:36c91d2bba] I was thinking about buying all of Bullseye's
closeout ashtray molds and marketing them to Dennis as sushi-plate molds with chopstick grooves. -- -Kalera
http://www.beadwife.com http://www.bridgetownglass.com On eBay: http://www.snurl.com/1sfe

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View entire thread: Best Way to sell Lead Supplies?
Posted by Brock on Fri Aug 04, 2006 1:21 AM    Post subject: Re: Best Way to sell Lead Supplies?

dennis@debrady.com wrote: [quote:da7aa732ad] You have nothing to tell me about glass, ancient or contemporary, you hack.
Go make another crappy little boat that falls apart. Brock Maybe later. Too busy now making glass sushi dishes.
[/quote:da7aa732ad] Really. After stating repeatedly that the market for them is over! What you do is not even craft
Dennis, I call it crapft. Slumping a single layer of crappy Spectrum baroque into a simple mold. Wow! What skill. What
artisanship, Can't wait for the book . . . Brock

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View entire thread: anti-stain liquid
Posted by Javahut on Wed May 24, 2006 8:17 PM    Post subject: Re: anti-stain liquid

[quote:0b2558892c]Always wondered? Who are "they" , as in "they're all afraid...." "they"
can't see the expression on a face on the internet, how do "they" know how the phrase was intended? The words
themselves aren't too awful fearful. It isn't insulting anyone. No name calling involved, (that will probably start
with the next reply). Just thought I should take it around a bit of curve toward the "off topic" direction. I
have big shoulders, I can stand being chastised for doing so. Actually, I don't care..... But I just wondered who
"they" were. I'm assuming "they" are folks like me -- new to the craft and this newsgroup --
whose first impression is of an unwelcoming community with a maturity level of a teenager. Hurray for kill files. -Ray
Exactly.... sad to say Java but he's right. Newbies get jumped on here regularly. OH, shit, forgot to be
sensitive!![/quote:0b2558892c] For gosh sakes, toughen up a little, the whole world doesn't give a damn about
sensitivities. I haven't seen anything, except maybe the Brady crap,(kill filed him myself long ago, your right!
hurray) that would bother anyone with an adult maturity, some of it is not meant seriously, so when people take it that
way, I run with it. For those that are expecting detailed answers to minor to questions they are to lazy to do any
personal research on, oh friggin' well. This is the internet, not that anyone has to be rude, but to expect the
sensitivity of a personal conversation is not very realistic. and who cares anyway!!? Should I care if Ray kill files
me? Not hardly, he can pound sand for all I care, don't know him, don't miss him in my life. If you can't stand the
heat, stay the hell out of the kitchen. Having said that, when I have seen a question that someone has that I have the
answer for or can at least be helpful with , in my experience, I post it. Seriously and with dignity toward the topic
and poster. When I see something stupid, I "used to" jump on them too. Now I simply don't care, in fact this
topic is worth no more of my time or thought. BUT, to stay on the OP topic, what is wrong with Moon's answer? If you
care enough about the material you buy, to scour the internet and ask every one that posts "where can I get the
best deal where I am at?" why in the world would you store it somewhere that it can be attacked by anything???
Youghiogheny stores all their glass OUTSIDE YEAR AROUND!! in PA Kokomo stores their glass in unheated huge high
ceilinged barns! in IN both snow/cold states, Lins, made in FL,now closed, used to store it in a small rooms, out of
the sunlight and rain, but open to big bugs! that got squished between sheets, (it wipes off) . Never heard any of
them mention anything about abnormalities on their glass. I store all my glass under a roof, inside 4 walls, and have no
problems, with any color, transparency, or texture. Now why is Moon's answer so scary again? If your new and that
scares you, better stay away...it only gets better..

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