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View entire thread: i have 2 oz of gold grain and 2oz of small nuggets. where sh
Posted by Anonymous on Mon Nov 06, 2006 2:43 AM    Post subject: i have 2 oz of gold grain and 2oz of small nuggets. where sh



i think it is all jewellery grade . it is yukon placer gold.

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View entire thread: i have 2 oz of gold grain and 2oz of small nuggets. where sh
Posted by Peter W.. Rowe, on Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:12 AM    Post subject: Re: i have 2 oz of gold grain and 2oz of small nuggets. wher

On Sun, 05 Nov 2006 17:43:05 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry nosugarintea@yahoo.com wrote: [quote:dcd3b5d6d1]i think it is
all jewellery grade . it is yukon placer gold. [/quote:dcd3b5d6d1] If it's good enough (size) to be used as is, as a
decorative element in jewelry, rather than just melted down, I'd probably try to sell it on ebay. Peter


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View entire thread: i have 2 oz of gold grain and 2oz of small nuggets. where sh
Posted by Abrasha on Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:22 AM    Post subject: Re: i have 2 oz of gold grain and 2oz of small nuggets. wher

nosugarintea@yahoo.com wrote: [quote:4fc56c0626]i think it is all jewellery grade . [/quote:4fc56c0626] What does that
mean? -- Abrasha http://www.abrasha.com


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View entire thread: i have 2 oz of gold grain and 2oz of small nuggets. where sh
Posted by Peter W.. Rowe, on Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:28 AM    Post subject: Re: i have 2 oz of gold grain and 2oz of small nuggets. wher

On Sun, 05 Nov 2006 18:22:24 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry Abrasha <abrasha@abrasha.com> wrote:
[quote:7dd62d1d33]nosugarintea@yahoo.com wrote: i think it is all jewellery grade . What does that mean?
[/quote:7dd62d1d33] I'd guess it refers to the type of small placer gold nuggets and bits that are commonly used by
soldering down to a background area, usually on rather atrociously badly designed tourist jewelry.. The original
"nugget" jewelry. Used to be more popular than it now is, can still be found not infrequently in tourist
frequented jewelry shops in Alaska for the most part, and occasionally in those areas of California best known as
historic gold rush locations. The small nuggets and stuff larger than "sand", can also have a decent market
sometimes with mineral specimin dealers. Even small bits can be mounted in one of those small magnifying lens plastic
display boxes, and then sold for a good deal more than the value of the gold plus the box... Peter


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View entire thread: i have 2 oz of gold grain and 2oz of small nuggets. where sh
Posted by Anonymous on Mon Nov 06, 2006 4:48 AM    Post subject: Re: i have 2 oz of gold grain and 2oz of small nuggets. wher

yep Peter W.. Rowe, wrote: [quote:acbf432e52]On Sun, 05 Nov 2006 18:22:24 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry Abrasha
abrasha@abrasha.com> wrote: nosugarintea@yahoo.com wrote: i think it is all jewellery grade . What does that mean?
I'd guess it refers to the type of small placer gold nuggets and bits that are commonly used by soldering down to a
background area, usually on rather atrociously badly designed tourist jewelry.. The original "nugget"
jewelry. Used to be more popular than it now is, can still be found not infrequently in tourist frequented jewelry shops
in Alaska for the most part, and occasionally in those areas of California best known as historic gold rush locations.
The small nuggets and stuff larger than "sand", can also have a decent market sometimes with mineral specimin
dealers. Even small bits can be mounted in one of those small magnifying lens plastic display boxes, and then sold for
a good deal more than the value of the gold plus the box... Peter[/quote:acbf432e52]


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View entire thread: i have 2 oz of gold grain and 2oz of small nuggets. where sh
Posted by Anonymous on Mon Nov 06, 2006 4:49 AM    Post subject: Re: i have 2 oz of gold grain and 2oz of small nuggets. wher

I have noticed people selling it on ebay. I approached a couple jewellery stores and they seemed overly interested. I
guess they thought they could buy it at a discount or something. It would be a lot of work to sell it on ebay. nugget by
nugget. Peter W.. Rowe, wrote: [quote:ffaf2a4886]On Sun, 05 Nov 2006 17:43:05 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry
nosugarintea@yahoo.com wrote: i think it is all jewellery grade . it is yukon placer gold. If it's good enough (size)
to be used as is, as a decorative element in jewelry, rather than just melted down, I'd probably try to sell it on ebay.
Peter[/quote:ffaf2a4886]


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View entire thread: Advice on carving a 'Lost Wax' ring
Posted by Anonymous on Wed Aug 09, 2006 3:49 AM    Post subject: Advice on carving a 'Lost Wax' ring

Hello. I am new to designing jewellery and carving wax. I was wondering if anyone one could give me some tips on how to
carve my ring for the lost wax process, or direct to a link that has the information already. I have purchased a tube of
blue Matt Wax (easiest to work with for beginners (or so I was told)) and a kit of 6 dentist-style tools. I will be
setting two stones (one 5mm trillion cut alexandrite and one 5mm trillion cut color-change garnet) into my final ring,
and I will be using pre-calibrated settings for the stones. The design is already planned out, and it is unfortunately
symmetircal. The final ring will be made of white gold. I will be doing some practicing before the final. So the main
things I am wondering are: What do I need to know when carving a ring from wax? (the not-to-do) How do i design the
ring to fit the calibrated settings? The things I "know" so far: -the gold ring will be slightly smaller than
the wax one -keep in mind the weight of gold compared to that of the wax -it is not easy to keep it clean (luckily my
jeweler in town can check it as I go) -I will have to make several rings before it can be close to good I have a lot of
free time during college and until January to make the final ring. Any advice you can give me is GREATLY appreciated.
Thank you.


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View entire thread: Advice on carving a 'Lost Wax' ring
Posted by Heinrich Butschal on Wed Aug 09, 2006 8:31 AM    Post subject: Re: Advice on carving a 'Lost Wax' ring

mr000259747@ltu.edu schrieb: [quote:1c4c78c5e9]Hello. I am new to designing jewellery and carving wax. I was wondering
if anyone one could give me some tips on how to carve my ring for the lost wax process, or direct to a link that has the
information already. I have purchased a tube of blue Matt Wax (easiest to work with for beginners (or so I was told))
and a kit of 6 dentist-style tools. I will be setting two stones (one 5mm trillion cut alexandrite and one 5mm trillion
cut color-change garnet) into my final ring, and I will be using pre-calibrated settings for the stones. The design is
already planned out, and it is unfortunately symmetircal. The final ring will be made of white gold. I will be doing
some practicing before the final. So the main things I am wondering are: What do I need to know when carving a ring
from wax? (the not-to-do) How do i design the ring to fit the calibrated settings? The things I "know" so
far: -the gold ring will be slightly smaller than the wax one -keep in mind the weight of gold compared to that of the
wax -it is not easy to keep it clean (luckily my jeweler in town can check it as I go) -I will have to make several
rings before it can be close to good I have a lot of free time during college and until January to make the final ring.
Any advice you can give me is GREATLY appreciated. Thank you. [/quote:1c4c78c5e9] The Gold ring will be smaller one mm
in circumference. There should be courses offered for wax carving. My sister had one in Chicaco however this is more
than twenty years ago. I would ask in GIA LA. Shurely they could help. Mit freundlichem Gruß, Heinrich Butschal --
Schmuck gut verkaufen und günstig kaufen http://www.schmuck-boerse.com Geschichten berühmter Juwelen http://www.royal-
magazin.de Schmuck nach Maß anfertigen http://www.meister-atelier.de Firmengeschenke und Ehrennadeln
http://www.schmuckfabrik.de


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View entire thread: Advice on carving a 'Lost Wax' ring
Posted by Andrew Werby on Fri Aug 11, 2006 3:52 AM    Post subject: Re: Advice on carving a 'Lost Wax' ring

<mr000259747@ltu.edu> wrote in message news:i8jid2po4iu3eqm6mgk2abunuojmscp4k0@4ax.com...
[quote:454663e0b1]Hello. I am new to designing jewellery and carving wax. I was wondering if anyone one could give me
some tips on how to carve my ring for the lost wax process, or direct to a link that has the information already. I have
purchased a tube of blue Matt Wax (easiest to work with for beginners (or so I was told)) and a kit of 6 dentist-style
tools. [/quote:454663e0b1] [Some files will also come in handy. "Riffler" type files are bent, allowing you
to get into tight spaces. You'll want fairly coarse ones for wax.] I [quote:454663e0b1]will be setting two stones (one
5mm trillion cut alexandrite and one 5mm trillion cut color-change garnet) into my final ring, and I will be using pre-
calibrated settings for the stones. [/quote:454663e0b1] [You plan to solder those on? It's usually preferable to cast
the whole thing with the settings integral, but maybe that's just my aesthetic sense speaking.] The design is already
[quote:454663e0b1]planned out, and it is unfortunately symmetircal. The final ring will be made of white gold. I will
be doing some practicing before the final. So the main things I am wondering are: What do I need to know when carving a
ring from wax? (the not-to-do) [/quote:454663e0b1] [Try to avoid very thick sections next to very thin ones - this can
cause difficulties in casting.] [quote:454663e0b1]How do i design the ring to fit the calibrated settings?
[/quote:454663e0b1] [Generally, you'd leave a flat spot high enough to be able to file it true, large enough for the
base of the finding.] [quote:454663e0b1] The things I "know" so far: -the gold ring will be slightly smaller
than the wax one -keep in mind the weight of gold compared to that of the wax -it is not easy to keep it clean (luckily
my jeweler in town can check it as I go) -I will have to make several rings before it can be close to good
[/quote:454663e0b1] [That sounds about right.] [quote:454663e0b1] I have a lot of free time during college and until
January to make the final ring. Any advice you can give me is GREATLY appreciated. Thank you. [Use palladium white gold
if you can afford it; it's nicer to work with than[/quote:454663e0b1] the nickel alloys, and is much less likely to
cause allergic reactions.] Andrew Werby www.unitedartworks.com >


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View entire thread: disc cutter die - other shapes?
Posted by ted frater on Tue Jul 11, 2006 4:25 AM    Post subject: Re: disc cutter die - other shapes?

La Stella Celeste wrote: [quote:dbc995de1c]Hi. I have a disc cutter that cuts various sizes of round discs. It's the
kind that you slide the sheet of metal in and then hit it with a hammer to punch the disc. I would like to find (or
have made) some that would produce different shapes. My problem is that I don't quite know what to call them. I have
done internet searches on disc cutters, dies, tool and die, punch dies, punch cutters, and chatted with someone at a
tool and die shop who said they could do it for around $10,000, so I obviously wasn't communicating what I wanted. Can
anyone point me in the right direction for my search? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. thanks!! As you
will have read, Peter has covered all the jewellers ways of[/quote:dbc995de1c] blanking out shapes other than rounds.
The price you were quoted was for what might have been called a die set. This has the punch and die mounted in guides
and is quickly and simply installed in a power press for production making of shapes. this is fine if you want 50,000
of an item. not suitable to you I guess!!. Still way over priced for what it is. here in the UK the jewellery quarter in
Birmingham has since 1850 used accurately adjusted hand operated fly presses. thes are with a bar across the top of
the screw with round weights on each end of the bar. they come in all sizes fron 1 ton capacity up to 10 tons. Above
this size they are powered. the tooling for this system is as follows. the die is held down to the fly press base.
this has a hole in it to let the blanks fall into a drawer under the bench, the punch is usually threaded 8 tpi on a
3/4in shank for most work up to 2in in dia. Above this the size goes up to 1 in dia with 8tpi. the punch is located
in the die by hand to ensure alignment and then the die is clamped dowm . with a well set up fly press this is whats
called "open tooling" will work all day blanking out silver gold etc. I have fly presses from 1 ton to 10
tons, Power presses from 6 tons to 25.then minting hydraulic presses from 50 tons to 250 tons.Also 3 drop hammers
with various hammer weights from 50 lbs to 500lbs. Now the blanking dies. the die is made of a hardenable carbon
steel, tempered. thickness from 1/2in up wards, the punch is made from a similar steel, but is tempered much softer.
Its made by filing up an aproximate fit in the die, then driven into the die by the fly press when made red hot , I use
an oxy propane cutting torch to do this as you have to be quick!!.. this gives the bottom of the punch an exact copy
of the die. you unscrew the punch , clamp it in your leg vice and chisel away around the outline. you keep on doing
this till you can drive the punch into the die about 1/4in. the die cleans up the shape for you. when it wears after
a lot of use, you take the punch . clam in the leg vice and carefully peen the head of the punch. then clip it back in
the die and it will fit perfectly again. most dies ar made by drilling out most of the waste metal then filed up by
hand to the desired shape. It takes time but it allways did, when they were made by hand. ther are modern techniques of
press tool cutting such as EDM or wire erosion. your best bet is to locate a press work factory that closing down and
buy up all the equipment. cheapest way.] i was lucky to be offered a complete dropstampers workshop from 1851. Had
the lot and still use it all today. Its all out there, you just have go digging for it. Let us all know how you get
on.


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View entire thread: Is there a demand for such a tool?
Posted by lemel_man on Fri Jun 23, 2006 4:18 PM    Post subject: Is there a demand for such a tool?

I've been hand-making jewellery for many years, and make my own collets by the traditional method of bending a fan
shaped piece of metal into a truncated hollow cone, soldering it and truing it with a punch and die. Its all pretty
basic stuff but I've always had a big problem with bending the fan ready for soldering. Its not too bad for large
collets (1 ct diamond size and bigger) but small ones are a real chore and I've never found a satisfactory way of
doing it. Until now. After a lot of thinking I've finally come up with a very simple hand tool that works surprisingly
well and can handle any sized collet that I'm likely to need. I'm considering making some for sale but, since the
hand-made jewellery makers are the only people who are likely to use it, got to wondering how popular it would be. Am I
the only person who would need it, or do others find that this particular operation is as difficult as I do? Is there
a general need for such a tool? If you want to respond off-line, please remember to de-munge my email address. --
Regards, Gary Wooding (To reply by email, change feet to foot in my address) -- Posted via a free Usenet account from
http://www.teranews.com


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View entire thread: Finding motivation.
Posted by Anonymous on Wed Jun 07, 2006 2:46 AM    Post subject: Re: Finding motivation.

Dale Porter wrote: [quote:064709130f]It's interesting how the mind works and thoughts appear randomly. I've had a major
upheaval in my life at the start of this year, and ever since I have lacked any desire to get back on the workbench. I
have a couple of clients that would like me to do some work for them, and there's a shop near me that would like to
throw some repair and fabrication work my way, but at this stage I've put them off as I just cannot force myself to
spend the time and put in the effort. Basically I feel very blah towards it with everything else that has gone on and
the flow-on events. Now my lack of motivation is something I need to work through myself or simply let time do it's
healing (and in a way this post is in itself a form of therapy for me, the whole venting to strangers thing), but it has
made me curious.......... Apart from the need for an income, what motivates everyone here? What pushes you along to sit
at the bench and put in the hours, even when life is really getting to you? Cheers, Hi dale![/quote:064709130f] I was
feeling a bit low myself when I happened to read your message. Venting out your feelings even through writing is
definitely a healer. I'm a jewellery designer and what motivates me apart from creating a good design is the
appreciation I get from my clients.A positive feedback and being able to work despite the odds gives you a high.The
process is painful only till you begin.listening to uplifting music while trying to work also helps.You cannot sit and
wait for time to heal your wounds.It would be a slow process.Gather yourself and make a beginning.You will feel much
better if you can try and finish some assignments. God bless. shilpa Ajani


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View entire thread: Finding motivation.
Posted by NMarshall on Thu Jun 08, 2006 4:23 PM    Post subject: Re: Finding motivation.

What I have done is to sit down and do something I like to do... work on a design type I find easy, relaxing, enjoyable.
Rather than the techically challanging, potentially frustrating things. For me it is mindless beading or wire wrap
projects. I won't destroy materials if my mind wanders and I have something to sell at the end of it. I know I am
still avoiding what really needs to be done, but it helps to get easy enjoyment out of my time and has made me more
inclined to tackle at least one bench job afterwards. <shilpson@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4ubc8299qev9pu1qjvuh70q1j5n492a2hq@4ax.com... Dale Porter wrote: [quote:65f6a480ed]It's interesting how the mind
works and thoughts appear randomly. I've had a major upheaval in my life at the start of this year, and ever since I
have lacked any desire to get back on the workbench. I have a couple of clients that would like me to do some work for
them, and there's a shop near me that would like to throw some repair and fabrication work my way, but at this stage
I've put them off as I just cannot force myself to spend the time and put in the effort. Basically I feel very blah
towards it with everything else that has gone on and the flow-on events. Now my lack of motivation is something I need
to work through myself or simply let time do it's healing (and in a way this post is in itself a form of therapy for me,
the whole venting to strangers thing), but it has made me curious.......... Apart from the need for an income, what
motivates everyone here? What pushes you along to sit at the bench and put in the hours, even when life is really
getting to you? Cheers, Hi dale![/quote:65f6a480ed] I was feeling a bit low myself when I happened to read your
message. Venting out your feelings even through writing is definitely a healer. I'm a jewellery designer and what
motivates me apart from creating a good design is the appreciation I get from my clients.A positive feedback and being
able to work despite the odds gives you a high.The process is painful only till you begin.listening to uplifting music
while trying to work also helps.You cannot sit and wait for time to heal your wounds.It would be a slow process.Gather
yourself and make a beginning.You will feel much better if you can try and finish some assignments. God bless. shilpa
Ajani


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View entire thread: Finding motivation.
Posted by Dale Porter on Thu Jun 15, 2006 3:32 PM    Post subject: Re: Finding motivation.

Thanks for everyone's replies, both on and off list. It has been very interesting reading all the various points of
views and suggestions. I greatly appreciate it. I'm lucky that I don't *need* to generate an income from jewellery as
a few years ago I quit working for other jewellers and started a full-time job in another industry. This way I was able
to save up and buy a complete workbench setup and have control of the jewellery work I do from home and the way I do
it. As for my upheaval, my wife was killed in a head-on car crash in January this year whilst we were interstate for
her grandfather's funeral. I wasn't in the car at the time but her father and I arrived at the scene within 10 minutes.
She died trapped in the car not long after we got there. As a flow-on affect, I am currently in a custody battle for
her son, my step-son (who has lived with me since he was 3 months old, he's now almost 8 years old), with his
biological father. Keeps life interesting eh? Never a dull moment. At least various insurances and a civil law suit
will mean I won't have to worry about the mortgage when they go through. The other night I was pondering what to do
regarding my jewellery work and have pretty much decided to hold off for a bit until all the legal carry-on has settled
down. Once done hopefully I'll be in a position to quit the other job or at the very least cut down the hours
significantly and then throw myself into jewellery again and make it more than a side-line. Again, thanks for all the
replies. You have helped me consider a load of possibilities, and helped me sort through what I feel I need to do at
the moment. And to those of you dealing with your own problems in life at the moment (as a few have mentioned both here
and off list), feel free to contact me anytime. I'm a fairly open person and happy to chat with you if you need to chat
with someone. Discussing things with friends, family and even strangers has helped me alot, and I would be more than
happy to help others in the same way. -- Cheers, Dale Porter "Dale Porter" <daleaporter@gmail.com>
wrote in message news:mf4b825f2qmu21oo97j386cd0600h88rvu@4ax.com... It's interesting how the mind works and thoughts
appear randomly. I've had a major upheaval in my life at the start of this year, and ever since I have lacked any
desire to get back on the workbench. I have a couple of clients that would like me to do some work for them, and there's
a shop near me that would like to throw some repair and fabrication work my way, but at this stage I've put them off as
I just cannot force myself to spend the time and put in the effort. Basically I feel very blah towards it with
everything else that has gone on and the flow-on events. Now my lack of motivation is something I need to work through
myself or simply let time do it's healing (and in a way this post is in itself a form of therapy for me, the whole
venting to strangers thing), but it has made me curious.......... Apart from the need for an income, what motivates
everyone here? What pushes you along to sit at the bench and put in the hours, even when life is really getting to you?
Cheers, Dale


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View entire thread: FA: Schauer and Blythe jewellery & glass fusing enamel...99c
Posted by Sean on Tue Apr 18, 2006 6:14 AM    Post subject: FA: Schauer and Blythe jewellery & glass fusing enamel...99c

Schauer and Blythe jewellery & glass fusing enamel...99c per ounce I'm offering 50 ounces of the above in mixed
form and colors starting at only $49.50 for the lot.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8277939895 If you know your enamels this is a great bargain.
regards Sean


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View entire thread: FA: Schauer and Blythe jewellery & glass fusing enamel...99c
Posted by mbstevens on Wed Apr 19, 2006 2:21 AM    Post subject: Re: FA: Schauer and Blythe jewellery & glass fusing enamel..

Sean wrote: [quote:a8b2de571c]Schauer and Blythe jewellery & glass fusing enamel...99c per ounce I'm offering 50
ounces of the above in mixed form and colors starting at only $49.50 for the lot.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8277939895 If you know your enamels this is a great bargain.
[/quote:a8b2de571c] I know enamels should not have big lumps in them like I see in those bags. I suppose you could re-
grind and wash... Did they get damp or something?


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View entire thread: FA: Schauer and Blythe jewellery & glass fusing enamel...99c
Posted by Sean on Thu Apr 20, 2006 5:23 AM    Post subject: Re: FA: Schauer and Blythe jewellery & glass fusing enamel..

mbstevens wrote: [quote:7392d88884]Sean wrote: Schauer and Blythe jewellery & glass fusing enamel...99c per ounce
I'm offering 50 ounces of the above in mixed form and colors starting at only $49.50 for the lot.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8277939895 If you know your enamels this is a great bargain. I
know enamels should not have big lumps in them like I see in those bags. I suppose you could re-grind and wash... Did
they get damp or something? [/quote:7392d88884] G'day MB, First can I ask a question? If a I wanted to bake a multi
color template showing the colors after fusing would a standard kitchen oven or a hand held gas torch be sufficient? I
was thinking a copper sheet about 6" square. The only colors with evident lumps are the green and forget me not
blue....the rest are perfectly dry. This originally came in 4 pound paper bags (far from ideal packaging) and was
carefully transferred into clean glass coffee containers...but obviously somewhere along the line the 2 questionable
powders have formed a few lumps. Without trying to sound like a salesman the lumpy ones aint really as bad as they
look and break down very easily.....I just hate touching or going near the stuff.


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View entire thread: FA: Schauer and Blythe jewellery & glass fusing enamel...99c
Posted by Sean on Tue Apr 18, 2006 6:12 AM    Post subject: FA: Schauer and Blythe jewellery & glass fusing enamel...99c

Schauer and Blythe jewellery & glass fusing enamel...99c per ounce I'm offering 50 ounces of the above in mixed
form and colors starting at only $49.50 for the lot.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8277939895 This is a great bargain. regards Sean


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View entire thread: FA: Schauer and Blythe jewellery enamel and glass $2 per oun
Posted by Sean on Tue Apr 18, 2006 6:20 AM    Post subject: Re: FA: Schauer and Blythe jewellery enamel and glass fusing

Schauer and Blythe jewellery & glass fusing enamel...99c per ounce I'm offering 50 ounces of the above in mixed
form and colors starting at only $49.50 for the lot.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8277939895 If you know your enamels this is a great bargain.
regards Sean


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View entire thread: New Newsgroup
Posted by Heinrich Butschal on Fri Aug 04, 2006 4:47 PM    Post subject: Re: stop silver jewellery from tarnishing

ricky schrieb: [quote:92baf4a731]Is ther any way i can avoid my silver jewellery set with zircons and synthetic stones
from turning black or tarnishing by mixing any alloy in the silver before i manufacture the piece???????
[/quote:92baf4a731] A very good additive is 100% Copper to the Silver and 800% Gold ;-) Mit freundlichem Gruß,
Heinrich Butschal -- Schmuck gut verkaufen und günstig kaufen http://www.schmuck-boerse.com Geschichten berühmter
Juwelen http://www.royal-magazin.de Schmuck nach Maß anfertigen http://www.meister-atelier.de Firmengeschenke und
Ehrennadeln http://www.schmuckfabrik.de


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View entire thread: New Newsgroup
Posted by Peter W.. Rowe, on Fri Aug 04, 2006 4:50 PM    Post subject: Re: stop silver jewellery from tarnishing

On Fri, 04 Aug 2006 08:45:32 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry "ricky" <vivekrv@gmail.com> wrote:
[quote:ef6ce68554]Thanks Peter, but is this Argentum maleable enough for the goldsmith to shape and set the jewellery
piece with cubic zirconia or other synthetic color stones as i intend to market and manufacture in India
[/quote:ef6ce68554] I work mostly in gold and platinum, so I've not yet tried Argentum personally. But from reading the
extensive discussions about it in the Orchid list, I believe that it's a very good substitute. Many of the silversmiths
there, have pretty much entirely switched. Go to the Ganoksin.com site, find the orchid list archives (it's a very
active mail list discussion about jewelry. Like r.c.j. only much more active. Nothing to do with flowers :-)) and
search for Argentum, or in particular, posts from Cynthia Eid, a silversmith who's done extensive work with it, and
described it in detail on that list. Peter


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View entire thread: New Newsgroup
Posted by Frosty on Sun Aug 06, 2006 9:32 AM    Post subject: Re: stop silver jewellery from tarnishing

On or about Fri, 04 Aug 2006 07:15:05 GMT, an entity identified as "ricky" <vivekrv@gmail.com> proudly
proclaimed: [quote:3f120ba0fe]Is ther any way i can avoid my silver jewellery set with zircons and synthetic stones
from turning black or tarnishing by mixing any alloy in the silver before i manufacture the piece???????
[/quote:3f120ba0fe] It ain't cheap but you can make .975 silver with pure platinum and it works fairly easily. >


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View entire thread: New Newsgroup
Posted by Sarit Wolfus on Mon Aug 21, 2006 3:23 PM    Post subject: Re: stop silver jewellery from tarnishing

Hi Ricky, Have you tried 960 silver? I've seen years-old pieces made from 960 silver that still look "as new".
We have here (Israel) several manufactures that make it in form of plates and wires as a standard material. Using 999
fine silver would certainly solve the problem but the question is whether it is hard enough for your designs and how
significant is the extra cost. Sarit. http://sarit-jewelry.com ricky wrote: [quote:8f3a691409]Is ther any way i can
avoid my silver jewellery set with zircons and synthetic stones from turning black or tarnishing by mixing any alloy in
the silver before i manufacture the piece???????[/quote:8f3a691409]


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View entire thread: New Newsgroup
Posted by Castle Jewellers on Sun Sep 03, 2006 4:30 PM    Post subject: Re: stop silver jewellery from tarnishing

Yes you can get it Rhodium plated, most silver jewellery is Rhodium p[lated now. Dave "ricky"
<vivekrv@gmail.com> wrote in message news:3vs5d2130kihes4a4j5n057cruku2tsvrm@4ax.com... [quote:c677409128]Is ther
any way i can avoid my silver jewellery set with zircons and synthetic stones from turning black or tarnishing by mixing
any alloy in the silver before i manufacture the piece??????? [/quote:c677409128] -- Posted via a free Usenet
account from http://www.teranews.com


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View entire thread: casting papier mache
Posted by Gary Waller on Sat Nov 04, 2006 9:19 PM    Post subject: Re: casting papier mache

Here is a sculptor who works in paper mache (now in jewellery and bronze and resin. http://www.sergiobustamante.com.mx/
His pieces sell for thousands of $.


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View entire thread: rolling mill questions
Posted by ted frater on Tue Sep 19, 2006 7:38 AM    Post subject: Re: rolling mill questions

[[moderator edited, from email apparently intended at least in part (thus the editing) for the group...]] Interesting
how the use of the word "Pallion" has different uses. Yes I know the normal use in our trade is to describe
little pieces of solder BUT here the other meaning is the little pieces of gold or silver that are used under clear
enamel on watch faces and jewellery as decoraton. these are about 1/10th mm thick and are stamped in relief in red
,yellow and green gold as well as fine silver. Bayeler has supplied me in the past with all sorts of designs , last
time in 1978. but particularly the zodiac 12 and others like the French fleur de lys. Lovely to use too. Ive 2
catalogues of theirs witlh pictures of all the designs they make and the no run to over 1500. their address and Ph no
is Bayeler & Cie .S.A. Fabrique de Cadrans 2-4 rue des deux-ponts 1211 Geneva 8 Switzerland Tel. 0041 022 24 62 40
Just on the off chance you know of an agent in the usa. youd enjoy using them. So simple to use. once youve enamelled
the work piece you just stick the paillion ontop of the enamel with a tiny bit of spittle, Yes!! its fine, using a
tiny paint brush to pick it up and place it. then re fire it and it settles onto the enamel all by itself. no
oxidation . then you put a tiny dusting of cleat or clear coloured enamel on top , re fire asnd its done. looks
great. Ted


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View entire thread: Website review sought - comments invited
Posted by Kalera on Tue Aug 22, 2006 5:14 PM    Post subject: Re: Website review sought - comments invited

Su wrote: [quote:224e9aae81]Just a personal comment. I don't like jewellery that is one of a kind modeled on a person.
In fact unless it's really professional photography I don't like seeing jewellery on a person. Get a good necklace
stand, the cut-off bits of person are really offputting to a lot of people. [/quote:224e9aae81] I am in that camp as
well. Although the model has lovely skin (the first thing I thought when I looked at the site) I find that jewelry
modeled on a person distracts from the jewelry itself. Those designs are lovely but I didn't remember any of them
after leaving the site the first time... but I did remember that they were photographed on a lady with lovely skin,
LOL! -- -Kalera http://www.beadwife.com http://www.bridgetownglass.com On eBay: http://www.snurl.com/1sfe


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View entire thread: Website review sought - comments invited
Posted by Su on Wed Aug 16, 2006 9:07 AM    Post subject: Re: Website review sought - comments invited

Craig Cockburn wrote: [quote:1c69007b28]Following the feedback I got here a few weeks ago, I've revised the site I'm
putting together for my wife's jewelry. It's here http://www.siliconglen.com/joscelin/jewelry.html Comments welcome -
I'm especially interested in feedback on the prices and tips for handling both UK and US prices - is there an easy way
to do this or do people suggest just having two paypal buttons for each item (a UK price and a rest-of-the-world)
[/quote:1c69007b28] Get a free program like Zen Cart, it's not that bad to learn and you can set the various currencies
and exchange rate to what you want and the customer chooses the currency. Just a personal comment. I don't like
jewellery that is one of a kind modeled on a person. In fact unless it's really professional photography I don't like
seeing jewellery on a person. Get a good necklace stand, the cut-off bits of person are really offputting to a lot of
people. Good luck with the site. -Su www.tillermanbeads.co.uk www.britishlampwork.co.uk


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View entire thread: OT: Candy
Posted by Johanna Gibson on Thu Jul 13, 2006 1:37 AM    Post subject: Re: change topic... what candies do you remember....

On Wed, 12 Jul 2006 14:51:44 -0400, "Kate G." <grovesfam@NOcomcastSPAM.net> wrote:
[quote:7fc68dbdf4]from your childhood! Me... I remember candy buttons and candy necklaces... Necco wafers.. .and those
little wax pop bottles with juice inside. And Pixie Stix... and wax lips -- didn't you just love those! LOL Oh
yeah... and Fruit Stripe Gum for a nickel a pack! Kate in MI [/quote:7fc68dbdf4] I always bought Necco wafers
(even though they weren't my favourite at all) because they were the best value for money. We only went to the store
once a month, and I wanted my 50 cents to last. I haven't had a wax candy since I was about 9. :( But! I
found a candy necklace at the sweet shop over in Newport for 10 pence! (20 cents) I can't work out how long to enjoy
the jewellery aspect of it before I eat it. Shall wear it tomorrow on my day off as I ponder this question. -- Jo in
Scotland


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View entire thread: Cardmaking - adhesive dispensers
Posted by Camilla Peake on Wed Mar 22, 2006 5:26 PM    Post subject: Re: Cardmaking - adhesive dispensers

Seen in Papercraft Mag for April. "Sticks to anything transfer tape, dispensing a thin layer of strong adhesive
which is initially repositionable" www.Telfords Direct. Or 0141 616 4116. Appears to be a small dispenser.
"Suzie B" <weaselwise@blueNOSPAMyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:uQFTf.199835$Q22.28406@fe1.news.blueyonder.co.uk... [quote:845f6db7aa]Adrian Brentnall wrote: Hi All Does anybody
know of an online source for those handy dispensers that lay down a thin strip of adhesive from a tape...? We used to
use the Amos ones, which have refills available - but apparently they're not being made any more. It seems a waste to
buy the 'single use' ones..... Any ideas please ?? Thanks Adrian www.inspired-glass.co.uk stained glass, dischroic
glass jewellery and Mothers Day cards ! ======return email munged================= take out the papers and the trash to
reply Try your local craft/rubber-stamp/scrapbooking shop and ask for a Herma dispenser - or even Lakeland if you have
one near you - Herma are refillable and come in repositionable as well as permanent tape.
http://www.lakelandlimited.co.uk/product.aspx/!30599_30559 if you don't have a Lakeland near you they do mail order...
HTH... Suzie B -- "From the internet connection under the (undamaged end of the) pier!" Southend, UK --
Please remove NOSPAM when emailing me! http://community.webshots.com/user/suziekga[/quote:845f6db7aa]


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View entire thread: Cardmaking - adhesive dispensers
Posted by Suzie B on Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:15 PM    Post subject: Re: Cardmaking - adhesive dispensers

Adrian Brentnall wrote: [quote:94e12b7157]Hi All Does anybody know of an online source for those handy dispensers that
lay down a thin strip of adhesive from a tape...? We used to use the Amos ones, which have refills available - but
apparently they're not being made any more. It seems a waste to buy the 'single use' ones..... Any ideas please ??
Thanks Adrian www.inspired-glass.co.uk stained glass, dischroic glass jewellery and Mothers Day cards ! ======return
email munged================= take out the papers and the trash to reply [/quote:94e12b7157] Try your local craft/
rubber-stamp/scrapbooking shop and ask for a Herma dispenser - or even Lakeland if you have one near you - Herma are
refillable and come in repositionable as well as permanent tape.
http://www.lakelandlimited.co.uk/product.aspx/!30599_30559 if you don't have a Lakeland near you they do mail order...
HTH... Suzie B -- "From the internet connection under the (undamaged end of the) pier!" Southend, UK --
Please remove NOSPAM when emailing me! http://community.webshots.com/user/suziekga


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View entire thread: Cardmaking - adhesive dispensers
Posted by Adrian Brentnall on Sun Mar 19, 2006 2:44 PM    Post subject: Cardmaking - adhesive dispensers

Hi All Does anybody know of an online source for those handy dispensers that lay down a thin strip of adhesive from a
tape...? We used to use the Amos ones, which have refills available - but apparently they're not being made any more.
It seems a waste to buy the 'single use' ones..... Any ideas please ?? Thanks Adrian www.inspired-glass.co.uk stained
glass, dischroic glass jewellery and Mothers Day cards ! ======return email munged================= take out the papers
and the trash to reply


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View entire thread: Vintage Jewellery Manual Jewelry craft manual 1948 FA
Posted by JaneyP on Sun Aug 27, 2006 12:12 AM    Post subject: Vintage Jewellery Manual Jewelry craft manual 1948 FA

Jewellery Repairingby William A Jackson 1948 Covers very grubby,ex lib. otherwise a good solid copy.143 pages. Really
useful little vintage jewellers craft manual ,very comprehensive,covers a host of jewellery related subjects (see
scans).
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320018406582&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1


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View entire thread: Vintage Jewellery Manual Jewelry craft manual 1948 FA
Posted by JaneyP on Sun Aug 27, 2006 12:09 AM    Post subject: Vintage Jewellery Manual Jewelry craft manual 1948 FA

Jewellery Repairing by William A Jackson 1948 Covers very grubby,ex lib. otherwise a good solid copy.143 pages. Really
useful little vintage jewellers craft manual ,very comprehensive,covers a host of jewellery related subjects (see
scans).
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320018406582&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1


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View entire thread: Closing jump-rings effectively
Posted by Daisy on Thu Jul 27, 2006 4:33 PM    Post subject: Closing jump-rings effectively

I have been asked to make some earrings using acrylic irridescent comets and I have been provided with a model. I have
all the ingredients for these earrings but am experiencing tremendous difficulty in closing the jump rings effectively
enough to stop the very thin plastic (or acrylic) comets from sliding through. I haven't had any problems before as I
use two pairs of jewellery pliers to open and close the rings. Should I perhaps be using some sort of soldering
technique? I am not using sterling silver rings, but perhaps I should? The model I am working from is just plain old
silver chain and they are closed properly. I think, however, that the model is from a machine-generated pair of
earrings, which is an entirely different can of fish!!! Can someone please help/advise me? Cheers Daisy Carthage
demands an explanation for this insolence!


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View entire thread: Closing jump-rings effectively
Posted by Carl on Fri Jul 28, 2006 2:11 AM    Post subject: Re: Closing jump-rings effectively

Daisy wrote: [quote:db2aee7d82]I have been asked to make some earrings using acrylic irridescent comets and I have been
provided with a model. I have all the ingredients for these earrings but am experiencing tremendous difficulty in
closing the jump rings effectively enough to stop the very thin plastic (or acrylic) comets from sliding through. I
haven't had any problems before as I use two pairs of jewellery pliers to open and close the rings. Should I perhaps be
using some sort of soldering technique? I am not using sterling silver rings, but perhaps I should? The model I am
working from is just plain old silver chain and they are closed properly. I think, however, that the model is from a
machine-generated pair of earrings, which is an entirely different can of fish!!! Can someone please help/advise me?
[/quote:db2aee7d82] You're dealing with plastic, heat is not your friend. no soldering. If your links are half-hard or
hard that'll help a lot. While the ring ends are offset, bend them so they pass each other ----------- |
----------- --------------- | --------------- then close by 'over' bending them the other way
--------------- -----------| |--------------- ----------- until they line up when you let go
----------------------- || ----------------------- This leaves a bit of spring tension holding the ends
together. You must practice this well. - Carl


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View entire thread: Closing jump-rings effectively
Posted by Judy Shaw on Fri Jul 28, 2006 2:11 AM    Post subject: Re: Closing jump-rings effectively

If you can, use oval jump rings. Its a lot harder for them to then slide thru since the "opening" is midway
up the side. Judy Shaw Jasco Minerals "Daisy" <DaisyL@emailaccount.com> wrote in message
news:o4nhc2hbgb45bgam024c5ffeah70le7ujq@4ax.com... [quote:e8a7db9ee6]I have been asked to make some earrings using
acrylic irridescent comets and I have been provided with a model. I have all the ingredients for these earrings but am
experiencing tremendous difficulty in closing the jump rings effectively enough to stop the very thin plastic (or
acrylic) comets from sliding through. I haven't had any problems before as I use two pairs of jewellery pliers to open
and close the rings. Should I perhaps be using some sort of soldering technique? I am not using sterling silver
rings, but perhaps I should? The model I am working from is just plain old silver chain and they are closed properly.
I think, however, that the model is from a machine-generated pair of earrings, which is an entirely different can of
fish!!! Can someone please help/advise me? Cheers Daisy Carthage demands an explanation for this insolence!
[/quote:e8a7db9ee6]


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View entire thread: Closing jump-rings effectively
Posted by Carl 1 Lucky Texan on Fri Jul 28, 2006 2:11 AM    Post subject: Re: Closing jump-rings effectively

Daisy wrote: [quote:6d190692c1]I have been asked to make some earrings using acrylic irridescent comets and I have been
provided with a model. I have all the ingredients for these earrings but am experiencing tremendous difficulty in
closing the jump rings effectively enough to stop the very thin plastic (or acrylic) comets from sliding through. I
haven't had any problems before as I use two pairs of jewellery pliers to open and close the rings. Should I perhaps be
using some sort of soldering technique? I am not using sterling silver rings, but perhaps I should? The model I am
working from is just plain old silver chain and they are closed properly. I think, however, that the model is from a
machine-generated pair of earrings, which is an entirely different can of fish!!! Can someone please help/advise me?
Cheers Daisy Carthage demands an explanation for this insolence! [/quote:6d190692c1] Well, the normal technique of
bending the 2 'sides' of the ring 'sideways' as opposed to pulling them apart, does lend itself to closing them back
again with a very small gap indeed. But suppose if the 'comets' are thin pieces of mylar film or something, they could
still be problematic. Maybe you could investigate 'split rings' (think a tiny version of the typical key ring) though,
purchasing the special pliers made for opening them will greatly ease their installation. Carl -- to reply, change
( .not) to ( .net)


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View entire thread: Closing jump-rings effectively
Posted by Marilee J. Layman on Fri Jul 28, 2006 2:11 AM    Post subject: Re: Closing jump-rings effectively

On Thu, 27 Jul 2006 15:33:14 GMT, Daisy <DaisyL@emailaccount.com> wrote: [quote:f54531ad1d]I have been asked to
make some earrings using acrylic irridescent comets and I have been provided with a model. I have all the ingredients
for these earrings but am experiencing tremendous difficulty in closing the jump rings effectively enough to stop the
very thin plastic (or acrylic) comets from sliding through. I haven't had any problems before as I use two pairs of
jewellery pliers to open and close the rings. Should I perhaps be using some sort of soldering technique? I am not
using sterling silver rings, but perhaps I should? The model I am working from is just plain old silver chain and they
are closed properly. I think, however, that the model is from a machine-generated pair of earrings, which is an
entirely different can of fish!!! Can someone please help/advise me? [/quote:f54531ad1d] Are you doing these for a
work-at-home company? Run! -- Marilee J. Layman http://mjlayman.livejournal.com/ "a lengthy 'signature'
consisting of the contributor's name, net address, workplace, some tacky pseudo-graphics made up from keyboard
characters, extended quotations from prose or verse the writer happens to like, etc." --
Dave Langford, 1994


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View entire thread: Closing jump-rings effectively
Posted by FlameNwind on Fri Jul 28, 2006 3:46 PM    Post subject: Re: Closing jump-rings effectively

I absolutely loved Judy's suggestion of oval rings and second it. However, if your prototype demands a round jump ring
and if you are opening and closing the rings properly (out to the side...one side coming in toward you and one side
going away from you...as oppose to pulling open like a 3 ring binder...eek!) and the wee tiny gap is still a problem,
you might want to use a tiny drop of either a clear hard glue like epoxy...or cheaper yet, some clear nail polish.
Lori "Marilee J. Layman" <marilee@mjlayman.com> wrote in message
news:n1pic2huds0ab8t7ro2t3cbhr0vs5ah8u7@4ax.com... [quote:fe6e406fa2]On Thu, 27 Jul 2006 15:33:14 GMT, Daisy
<DaisyL@emailaccount.com wrote: I have been asked to make some earrings using acrylic irridescent comets and I have
been provided with a model. I have all the ingredients for these earrings but am experiencing tremendous difficulty in
closing the jump rings effectively enough to stop the very thin plastic (or acrylic) comets from sliding through. I
haven't had any problems before as I use two pairs of jewellery pliers to open and close the rings. Should I perhaps be
using some sort of soldering technique? I am not using sterling silver rings, but perhaps I should? The model I am
working from is just plain old silver chain and they are closed properly. I think, however, that the model is from a
machine-generated pair of earrings, which is an entirely different can of fish!!! Can someone please help/advise me?
Are you doing these for a work-at-home company? Run! -- Marilee J. Layman http://mjlayman.livejournal.com/ "a
lengthy 'signature' consisting of the contributor's name, net address, workplace, some tacky pseudo-graphics made up
from keyboard characters, extended quotations from prose or verse the writer happens to like, etc." -- Dave
Langford, 1994 [/quote:fe6e406fa2]


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View entire thread: Closing jump-rings effectively
Posted by ted frater on Fri Jul 28, 2006 11:27 PM    Post subject: Re: Closing jump-rings effectively

Daisy wrote: [quote:e0fdc194c3]I have been asked to make some earrings using acrylic irridescent comets and I have been
provided with a model. I have all the ingredients for these earrings but am experiencing tremendous difficulty in
closing the jump rings effectively enough to stop the very thin plastic (or acrylic) comets from sliding through. I
haven't had any problems before as I use two pairs of jewellery pliers to open and close the rings. Should I perhaps be
using some sort of soldering technique? I am not using sterling silver rings, but perhaps I should? The model I am
working from is just plain old silver chain and they are closed properly. I think, however, that the model is from a
machine-generated pair of earrings, which is an entirely different can of fish!!! Can someone please help/advise me?
Cheers Daisy Carthage demands an explanation for this insolence! No one as really given you the tips you need to do
this.[/quote:e0fdc194c3] Lets start right at the beginning. jump rings are usually wound on a mandrel smaller than the
finished size you want, from wire thats half hard or hard drawn. . then they are sawn!! off the coil either by
machine or by hand so that the cut is SQUARE across the wire. this is vital. If they have been cut off with snips or
wire cutters they wont work properly as the ends are distorted. Next you then close the jump ring so that the ends are
past each other usually a wire diameter's length. you then put on what ever you plan to use, in this case thin
plastic. then you hold the 2 ends in your pliers, preferably with parallel jaws polished on the inside to prevent
tool marks, then pull slightly apart so the ends are just clear of each other, and twist PAST the lining up point to
line up the ends. the springy nature of the ring will then bring the ends tight together. run trials first to get the
technique right BEFORE you start the assembly proper. theres another additional way to tighten up rings when you done
the above. you need to to squeeze the ring across the diameter from the open end to the other side. each side
alternately one side at a time not together!.. Try out the above and get back to us here.


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View entire thread: Closing jump-rings effectively
Posted by Carl 1 Lucky Texan on Wed Aug 02, 2006 6:14 AM    Post subject: Re: Closing jump-rings effectively

Daisy wrote: [quote:f64b5d4d8f]I have been asked to make some earrings using acrylic irridescent comets and I have been
provided with a model. I have all the ingredients for these earrings but am experiencing tremendous difficulty in
closing the jump rings effectively enough to stop the very thin plastic (or acrylic) comets from sliding through. I
haven't had any problems before as I use two pairs of jewellery pliers to open and close the rings. Should I perhaps be
using some sort of soldering technique? I am not using sterling silver rings, but perhaps I should? The model I am
working from is just plain old silver chain and they are closed properly. I think, however, that the model is from a
machine-generated pair of earrings, which is an entirely different can of fish!!! Can someone please help/advise me?
Cheers Daisy Carthage demands an explanation for this insolence! [/quote:f64b5d4d8f] While I'm surprised at the
number of approaches to the problem and the lenght the discussion has continued, on review I see no reason not to
choose the oval jump rings as the best solution to the problem. It has 'elegance'. Carl -- to reply, change ( .not)
to ( .net)


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View entire thread: AD Jewelry & Enamelling vintage manual 1947
Posted by Shirley Shone on Sat May 13, 2006 6:37 AM    Post subject: Re: AD Jewelry & Enamelling vintage manual 1947

In my English dictionary we do spell enamelling with double l here in UK Like we spell jewellery with a double l The
seller probably spelled it how she thought it should be. From looking at the cover it probably is an American book.
Shirley In message <44651965$1_3@newspeer2.tds.net>, Fragile Warrior <volfie@td.net> writes
[quote:a74a8142b0] "JaneyP" <janeypugh@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1147472460.380071.307340@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... Jewelry & Enamelling by Greta Pack 1947 Original
owners inscriptions,scuff to edge of spine ,but otherwise a nice clean & solid copy.377 pages. This appears to be a
proper trade manual as opposed to a hobbyists book.It is hugely comprehensive,and goes through every task of the
jewellers craft in great detail.Packed with pictures,plans illustrations and straightforward instruction. Some
headings:- Central figures/Wirework /Mounting plate /Annealing /Pickling /Piercing /Soldering with soft/hard solder
/Metal casting in cuttle bone /Chasing /Repouse /Stone setting /Enamelling /Carving /Wireworking /Dopms,balls &
stamped forms etc etc http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7028525783&rd=1&ss
pagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1 The following is just my humble opinion and all but... that's a pretty hefty asking
price for a book that's 60 years outdated. Now I realize some folks collect all books in their particular field no
matter their age or usefulness but if you go to http://www.fetchbook.info/search_greta_pack/searchBy_Author.html you
will see that Greta Pack reprints are selling for a few dollars each although this particular one isn't listed. If
there is a special reason why this book is more precious than any other (either current or old) you might want to put
that in the ad as a selling point. Oh, yes, and you spelled enameling wrong in your title. That screws up people who
might search on that word. [/quote:a74a8142b0] -- Shirley Shone shirley@allcrafts.demon.co.uk
http://www.allcrafts.demon.co.uk


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View entire thread: AD Jewelry & Enamelling vintage manual 1947
Posted by Fragile Warrior on Sat May 13, 2006 12:30 PM    Post subject: Re: AD Jewelry & Enamelling vintage manual 1947

"Shirley Shone" <nospam@allcrafts.area51.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:sEhbhYBqCXZEFwWX@allcrafts.demon.co.uk... [quote:4e752eb230]In my English dictionary we do spell enamelling with
double l here in UK Like we spell jewellery with a double l The seller probably spelled it how she thought it should be.
From looking at the cover it probably is an American book. Shirley [/quote:4e752eb230] Whatever the spelling may be in
various countries, if you don't spell the title of the book the same way it is spelled on the book, then people
searching for that title won't find it and it won't show up in book-listing search engines either. I was speaking
purely as a book seller/buyer, not as a spelling teacher.


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View entire thread: Insurance for Craft Fairs ?
Posted by Adrian Brentnall on Mon Mar 13, 2006 6:09 PM    Post subject: Insurance for Craft Fairs ?

HI All I've been showing / selling my stained glass, fused glass jewellery and greetings cards at quite a few craft
fairs and Mind, Body, Spirit fairs over the last 6 months. Now, for the first time, a fair organiser has asked for my
Public Liability Cover details - to the tune of £2 million... They say that they can't 'insist' that I have this
insurance - but would (if I don't have it) they'd require me to sign a disclaimer accepting personal responsibility for
any possible claims.... ....so..... I've so far had two quotes - one for £173.50 (!!) and the other for £65. At the
moment I'm doing a fair every month or so - and stand space, transport & etc is expensive enough - without factoring
in this additional expense. What's the general feeling on this ? Is it a common requirement, or do many organisers
simply want a disclaimer - and is this a safe or advisable thing to do..... I'm also insured separately as a Healer -
and I can understand the rationale behind this - but I can't quite see what possible consequences of exhibiting my
crafts could justify the £2M damages..... or is it just a case of 'everybody covering their own backsides .... Looking
forward to your opinions - thanks in advance Adrian www.inspired-glass.co.uk ======return email munged=================
take out the papers and the trash to reply


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View entire thread: ENABLER ALERT!!!! Maya Road Ribbon (also SS hint!)
Posted by Klara on Mon Oct 30, 2006 1:03 AM    Post subject: Re: ENABLER ALERT!!!! Maya Road Ribbon (also SS hint!)

Hello, I love the Maya Road products too. They make the cutest little metal ribbon slides - they are almost like
jewellery for scrapbooks - and beautiful ribbons and lots and lots of chipboard too. And everything comes in pretty
little boxes. I have been seeing Maya Road products on layouts in magazines...but they are so difficult to get hold off
in the UK. Stunning stuff - I want all of it!!! http://mayaroad.com/new/index.php Klara


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View entire thread: fabric question
Posted by Shirley Shone on Thu Oct 05, 2006 12:07 PM    Post subject: Re: fabric question

Thanks Patti, I am printing your tips off so I can have them to hand when I start. I have noticed though that the
selvage is a good 1/2 inch wide so if I left it part of the tightly woven part would show when I did a 1/4 inch seam.
In that case would it be better to cut it off. Shirley In message <cFPHD+Ds+KJFJAtG@quik.clara.co.uk>, Patti
<Patti@quik.clara.co.uk> writes [quote:41e9b2ec23]Oh Shirley, this is wonderful! You're going to take the plunge.
This is going to be so exciting. I cut the selvage off if it is wavy or otherwise irregular. I do find that does
happen. If it is reliable - in the way Cheryl explained - I leave it; but always cut pieces within it. The strips
Cheryl mentioned are being cut across the width, so that the selvage is only on the two ends of the strip and can be cut
off when you start to piece; they are not along the length of a strip. Couple of hints for your very first project:
when you have your plan ready, join the squares in rows and press the seams one way; press the seams of the next row in
the other direction (you may remember having seen comments here about 'nesting' seams - this is what makes that happen).
and, the great tip from Jeanne, a week or so ago, to sew the rows together with the seam allowances that face towards
the needle on the top - to make the corner matching better. Good luck, and have fun! . In message
<HD6ChsDqYKJFFwH7@allcrafts.demon.co.uk>, Shirley Shone nospam@allcrafts.area51.demon.co.uk> writes Thanks for
your reply. Many years ago before I finished work I used to go round the market in my lunch hour. There was a bedding
stall that started selling odds and ends of material. So I bought bags of squares that are between 8 and 10 inch
square. I also bought some long lengths of about 3 to 4 yards of strips which are roughly 4 inches wide. These have the
selvage. These are all poly cotton but I thought would be okay to have a practice on. Most are pastel shade with a few
floral ones plus some deep pink. After doing the centre beaded panel for the Enschede Quilt I thought one day I would
have a try to make a quilt. I gather other bits and bobs together. I put them away and forgot about them. Too busy with
my beadwork, greeting card making and then computer studies. At the age of 70 I built my own website and got my Diploma
for computer studies. I have just made 76 Christmas cards and have n more jewellery than anyone else in the village. So
I thought I would find all that fabric out. For a simple project I thought of cutting 6.1/2 inch squares and joining
them together. If I got on okay with that I would then maybe make one with banding between the squares. Not too
difficult for a start. I have made a graph and when I have decided on the colours I will plan it. Shirley
[/quote:41e9b2ec23] -- Shirley Shone shirley@allcrafts.demon.co.uk http://www.allcrafts.demon.co.uk


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View entire thread: fabric question
Posted by Patti on Thu Oct 05, 2006 8:09 AM    Post subject: Re: fabric question

Oh Shirley, this is wonderful! You're going to take the plunge. This is going to be so exciting. I cut the selvage
off if it is wavy or otherwise irregular. I do find that does happen. If it is reliable - in the way Cheryl explained
- I leave it; but always cut pieces within it. The strips Cheryl mentioned are being cut across the width, so that
the selvage is only on the two ends of the strip and can be cut off when you start to piece; they are not along the
length of a strip. Couple of hints for your very first project: when you have your plan ready, join the squares in
rows and press the seams one way; press the seams of the next row in the other direction (you may remember having seen
comments here about 'nesting' seams - this is what makes that happen). and, the great tip from Jeanne, a week or so
ago, to sew the rows together with the seam allowances that face towards the needle on the top - to make the corner
matching better. Good luck, and have fun! .. In message <HD6ChsDqYKJFFwH7@allcrafts.demon.co.uk>, Shirley Shone
<nospam@allcrafts.area51.demon.co.uk> writes [quote:ce0110ce9b]Thanks for your reply. Many years ago before I
finished work I used to go round the market in my lunch hour. There was a bedding stall that started selling odds and
ends of material. So I bought bags of squares that are between 8 and 10 inch square. I also bought some long lengths of
about 3 to 4 yards of strips which are roughly 4 inches wide. These have the selvage. These are all poly cotton but I
thought would be okay to have a practice on. Most are pastel shade with a few floral ones plus some deep pink. After
doing the centre beaded panel for the Enschede Quilt I thought one day I would have a try to make a quilt. I gather
other bits and bobs together. I put them away and forgot about them. Too busy with my beadwork, greeting card making and
then computer studies. At the age of 70 I built my own website and got my Diploma for computer studies. I have just
made 76 Christmas cards and have n more jewellery than anyone else in the village. So I thought I would find all that
fabric out. For a simple project I thought of cutting 6.1/2 inch squares and joining them together. If I got on okay
with that I would then maybe make one with banding between the squares. Not too difficult for a start. I have made a
graph and when I have decided on the colours I will plan it. Shirley [/quote:ce0110ce9b] -- Best Regards pat on the
hill


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View entire thread: fabric question
Posted by Shirley Shone on Thu Oct 05, 2006 7:28 AM    Post subject: Re: fabric question

Thanks for your reply. Many years ago before I finished work I used to go round the market in my lunch hour. There was
a bedding stall that started selling odds and ends of material. So I bought bags of squares that are between 8 and 10
inch square. I also bought some long lengths of about 3 to 4 yards of strips which are roughly 4 inches wide. These
have the selvage. These are all poly cotton but I thought would be okay to have a practice on. Most are pastel shade
with a few floral ones plus some deep pink. After doing the centre beaded panel for the Enschede Quilt I thought one
day I would have a try to make a quilt. I gather other bits and bobs together. I put them away and forgot about them.
Too busy with my beadwork, greeting card making and then computer studies. At the age of 70 I built my own website and
got my Diploma for computer studies. I have just made 76 Christmas cards and have n more jewellery than anyone else in
the village. So I thought I would find all that fabric out. For a simple project I thought of cutting 6.1/2 inch
squares and joining them together. If I got on okay with that I would then maybe make one with banding between the
squares. Not too difficult for a start. I have made a graph and when I have decided on the colours I will plan it.
Shirley In message <4524a061_2@news.chariot.net.au>, Cats <CATS@NO.SPAM.com> writes
[quote:1f7440dff0]Before you cut what pieces? lol If you are strip piecing, you cut the strips WITH the selvages
still on and sew the strips together (usually lining up the selvages straight across at one end of the set), and only
trim when you cross-cut your strip sets. That way you only trim once to a straight edge and avoid waste. So you do not
trim before you cut your strips, but you do trim before you cut your piecing shapes/blocks. As long as you do NOT
incorporate the coarser threads of the selvages into your piecing it is probably a matter of preference most times, but
try to minimise the number of times you "trim" fabric as each cut reduces the size you have to work from. BTW
- most manufacturers have those coarse threads running along both selvages even if the print runs all the way to the
edge of the fabric. Those thicker threads will shrink at a different rate to the finer threads in the body of the
fabric, and that will distort your blocks and the finished quilt. So you are not just cutting off the white strip
because of appearances. [/quote:1f7440dff0] -- Shirley Shone shirley@allcrafts.demon.co.uk
http://www.allcrafts.demon.co.uk


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View entire thread: why are grad rings so expensive?
Posted by Peter W.. Rowe, on Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:08 AM    Post subject: Re: why are grad rings so expensive?

On Sun, 05 Nov 2006 17:43:19 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry nosugarintea@yahoo.com wrote: [quote:067d635064]Should i just
go to a jewellery store and ask them to make up a ring with my school name and major? my school charges 200 bucks for
silver ring. the silver content is worth about a dollar as silver is about 12 buck an ounze. [/quote:067d635064] While
you do pay for any precious metal in a graduation ring, a good deal of the cost, is the labor involved. These are not,
after all, just pulled off the shelf. Each and every ring is made expecially to order, with the desired designs, years,
and other personalized info, and made to the right size. Each is custom made. That costs money. And you buy rather
more with the usual class ring than is traditional with most other jewelry, in terms of service and warranty. While it
may not always be the case any more with all companies (check. It's worth it if it's there), the class ring
manufacturers have traditionally stood by their product almost indefinately, for the original owner of a ring, even to
the point of remaking the thing years or decades later, if it becomes too worn or damaged, and doing that for a mostly
nominal fee. And even minor service may represent more work than you realize. With most class rings, the companies
don't even have a repair department. If you send your ring in for changing the size, or because there's some blemish
you wish repaired, they just scrap the ring, pull the mold they made for your ring back off the shelf, and make you a
whole new one. In part this is because it's more efficient and less costly for them to not have a bunch of employees
just doing repairs, but it's also because with some of the metals they make the rings out of, repairs are simply not
possible. And don't underestimate just what goes into making these rings. The type of detailing and carving involved
is generally way beyond what any typical custom jewelerly shop can do in house, unless they are equipped with the latest
revolutions in jewelry making, CAD/CAM technology. That at least makes it possible for a jeweler to make a model equal
in quality to what the class rings need for casting. But it too, isn't cheap. And after casting, typical class rings
then need stones set. Now, it's cheap enough raw material in most of the stones, but try finding a source for synthetic
sapphire with just the school crest you wish encrusted into the top of the stone. Again, this is all custom, stuff the
average jeweler cannot do, and doesn't have easy access to. And with many of the class rings now made, even the stone
setting is no longer simple and traditional. Stones are set with closed backs behind them, using a sealant or gasket
between the stone and metal, so water, dirt, oils, etc, don't get behind the stones. Some literally have the space
behind the stone filled with a specialized resin to do the same. The result is a stone that doesn't end up looking
grungy and dirty as you wear the ring. Sounds simple enough, but you'll find few, if any, custom goldsmiths or jewelry
shops with the facilities to duplicate that sort of method. And often, the metal in class rings has been heat treated
to harden it. While we're used to this with steel, in gold and silver this is rather trickier and less traditional.
Few goldsmiths know how to do this, or bother, but it increases the durability of the rings by quite a bit. In short,
class rings are not cheaply made mass produced baubles. They're rather on the cutting edge of technologically advanced
jewelry making, and you end up paying a premium for that level of quality. While you COULD go into your average jewelry
store and order a class ring, it may not be a match for what your school is selling, since that is usually via an
exclusive marketing agreement. So if your local jeweler can order one for you, it will be through a different company,
and the design may be different from the "official" one. Which may be just fine. However, the key thing is
to understand that the only thing that changes here is who you order your ring from. The school is acting as a retailer
for their official supplier company, and the local retail jeweler would be doing the same with whatever class ring
manufacturer it is dealing with. I'd rather expect that the jewelry store will be taking a higher percentage markup
than the school in many cases, or at least, not much different. You're unlikely to be saving much money, if at all.
You may wish also, to look at some of the alternative metals offered. In addition to gold or silver, class rings are
also offered in a number of often fancy named alloys. Often, these are merely nifty marketing names for surgical
stainless steel, or something similar. Give these serious consideration. The stuff makes a very durable and long
lasting ring, and with the manufacturer's being willing to stand behind the product if it ever needs repair or sizing
(impossible by conventional means), it's a pretty interesting choice. Peter Rowe


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View entire thread: why are grad rings so expensive?
Posted by Anonymous on Mon Nov 06, 2006 4:50 AM    Post subject: Re: why are grad rings so expensive?

The thing is that the rings supplied by the school only have the name of the school. no year or anything else. Peter W..
Rowe, wrote: [quote:d513e3c550]On Sun, 05 Nov 2006 17:43:19 -0800, in rec.crafts.jewelry nosugarintea@yahoo.com wrote:
Should i just go to a jewellery store and ask them to make up a ring with my school name and major? my school charges
200 bucks for silver ring. the silver content is worth about a dollar as silver is about 12 buck an ounze. While you
do pay for any precious metal in a graduation ring, a good deal of the cost, is the labor involved. These are not,
after all, just pulled off the shelf. Each and every ring is made expecially to order, with the desired designs, years,
and other personalized info, and made to the right size. Each is custom made. That costs money. And you buy rather
more with the usual class ring than is traditional with most other jewelry, in terms of service and warranty. While it
may not always be the case any more with all companies (check. It's worth it if it's there), the class ring
manufacturers have traditionally stood by their product almost indefinately, for the original owner of a ring, even to
the point of remaking the thing years or decades later, if it becomes too worn or damaged, and doing that for a mostly
nominal fee. And even minor service may represent more work than you realize. With most class rings, the companies
don't even have a repair department. If you send your ring in for changing the size, or because there's some blemish
you wish repaired, they just scrap the ring, pull the mold they made for your ring back off the shelf, and make you a
whole new one. In part this is because it's more efficient and less costly for them to not have a bunch of employees
just doing repairs, but it's also because with some of the metals they make the rings out of, repairs are simply not
possible. And don't underestimate just what goes into making these rings. The type of detailing and carving involved
is generally way beyond what any typical custom jewelerly shop can do in house, unless they are equipped with the latest
revolutions in jewelry making, CAD/CAM technology. That at least makes it possible for a jeweler to make a model equal
in quality to what the class rings need for casting. But it too, isn't cheap. And after casting, typical class rings
then need stones set. Now, it's cheap enough raw material in most of the stones, but try finding a source for synthetic
sapphire with just the school crest you wish encrusted into the top of the stone. Again, this is all custom, stuff the
average jeweler cannot do, and doesn't have easy access to. And with many of the class rings now made, even the stone
setting is no longer simple and traditional. Stones are set with closed backs behind them, using a sealant or gasket
between the stone and metal, so water, dirt, oils, etc, don't get behind the stones. Some literally have the space
behind the stone filled with a specialized resin to do the same. The result is a stone that doesn't end up looking
grungy and dirty as you wear the ring. Sounds simple enough, but you'll find few, if any, custom goldsmiths or jewelry
shops with the facilities to duplicate that sort of method. And often, the metal in class rings has been heat treated
to harden it. While we're used to this with steel, in gold and silver this is rather trickier and less traditional.
Few goldsmiths know how to do this, or bother, but it increases the durability of the rings by quite a bit. In short,
class rings are not cheaply made mass produced baubles. They're rather on the cutting edge of technologically advanced
jewelry making, and you end up paying a premium for that level of quality. While you COULD go into your average jewelry
store and order a class ring, it may not be a match for what your school is selling, since that is usually via an
exclusive marketing agreement. So if your local jeweler can order one for you, it will be through a different company,
and the design may be different from the "official" one. Which may be just fine. However, the key thing is
to understand that the only thing that changes here is who you order your ring from. The school is acting as a retailer
for their official supplier company, and the local retail jeweler would be doing the same with whatever class ring
manufacturer it is dealing with. I'd rather expect that the jewelry store will be taking a higher percentage markup
than the school in many cases, or at least, not much different. You're unlikely to be saving much money, if at all.
You may wish also, to look at some of the alternative metals offered. In addition to gold or silver, class rings are
also offered in a number of often fancy named alloys. Often, these are merely nifty marketing names for surgical
stainless steel, or something similar. Give these serious consideration. The stuff makes a very durable and long
lasting ring, and with the manufacturer's being willing to stand behind the product if it ever needs repair or sizing
(impossible by conventional means), it's a pretty interesting choice. Peter Rowe[/quote:d513e3c550]


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View entire thread: why are grad rings so expensive?
Posted by Anonymous on Mon Nov 06, 2006 2:43 AM    Post subject: why are grad rings so expensive?

Should i just go to a jewellery store and ask them to make up a ring with my school name and major? my school charges
200 bucks for silver ring. the silver content is worth about a dollar as silver is about 12 buck an ounze.


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View entire thread: why are grad rings so expensive?
Posted by Abrasha on Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:23 AM    Post subject: Re: why are grad rings so expensive?

nosugarintea@yahoo.com wrote: [quote:8a473a11c3]Should i just go to a jewellery store and ask them to make up a ring
with my school name and major? my school charges 200 bucks for silver ring. the silver content is worth about a dollar
as silver is about 12 buck an ounze. [/quote:8a473a11c3] It'll cost you more in a jewelry store. -- Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com


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View entire thread: why are grad rings so expensive?
Posted by Frosty on Mon Nov 06, 2006 4:50 AM    Post subject: Re: why are grad rings so expensive?

I downloaded new messages from rec.crafts.jewelry on Mon, 06 Nov 2006 01:43:19 GMT, and nosugarintea@yahoo.com vomited
forth this bit of wisdom : [quote:3e0f53fd3b]Should i just go to a jewellery store and ask them to make up a ring with
my school name and major? my school charges 200 bucks for silver ring. the silver content is worth about a dollar as
silver is about 12 buck an ounze. [/quote:3e0f53fd3b] Why don't you just buy and ounce of silver and make your own
thereby cutting out the middleman. <smirk>


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View entire thread: why are grad rings so expensive?
Posted by Anonymous on Mon Nov 06, 2006 10:14 AM    Post subject: Re: why are grad rings so expensive?

I have a 100 oz bar of silver. It is huge. I use it as a door stop. about 5000 people graduate each year from this
school. I realize that retailers mark things up but this seems like a shameless rip-off. this is 20 yrs after
graduation. for someone like me to graduate from university accounting, i darn well should proclaim it to the world. i
should get a huge custom made ring that says accounting on it. Frosty wrote: [quote:75466c9855]I downloaded new
messages from rec.crafts.jewelry on Mon, 06 Nov 2006 01:43:19 GMT, and nosugarintea@yahoo.com vomited forth this bit of
wisdom : Should i just go to a jewellery store and ask them to make up a ring with my school name and major? my school
charges 200 bucks for silver ring. the silver content is worth about a dollar as silver is about 12 buck an ounze. Why
don't you just buy and ounce of silver and make your own thereby cutting out the middleman. smirk[/quote:75466c9855]


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View entire thread: AD - Hand-made personalised pictures and cards for Christmas
Posted by Indigo-Silver on Sat Oct 28, 2006 12:35 AM    Post subject: AD - Hand-made personalised pictures and cards for Christmas

Hi and welcome to www.Indigo-Silver.co.uk - for silver jewellery and handmade gifts including collectable mohair
animals, personalised pictures & cards, silk handbags & purses and aromatherapy products. You should certainly
take a look at the wide range of beautiful colourful jewellery including murano glass, pearl, beads, and silver. But
for those looking for something personalised, we can create individually hand made to order cards and celebration
pictures for all occasions. Plus hand-made to order mohair animal keepsakes - great stocking fillers! Thanks for
looking :) Hayley. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Grab something for
Christmas at www.Indigo-Silver.co.uk !


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View entire thread: Hand-made personalised pictures & cards
Posted by Indigo-Silver on Sat Oct 28, 2006 12:32 AM    Post subject: Re: Hand-made personalised pictures & cards

apologies for missing the 'AD' ! "Indigo-Silver" <Indigo-Silver.co.uk@home.com> wrote in message
news:hFw0h.14587$j4.6020@newsfe1-win.ntli.net... [quote:b7b58df613]Hi and welcome to www.Indigo-Silver.co.uk - for
silver jewellery and handmade gifts including collectable mohair animals, personalised pictures & cards, silk
handbags & purses and aromatherapy products. You should certainly take a look at the wide range of beautiful
colourful jewellery including murano glass, pearl, beads, and silver. But for those looking for something personalised,
we can create individually hand made to order cards and celebration pictures for all occasions. Plus mohair animal
keepsakes - great stocking fillers! Thanks for looking :) Hayley.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Grab something for Christmas at www.
Indigo-Silver.co.uk ! [/quote:b7b58df613]


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View entire thread: Hand-made personalised pictures & cards
Posted by Indigo-Silver on Sat Oct 28, 2006 12:31 AM    Post subject: Hand-made personalised pictures & cards

Hi and welcome to www.Indigo-Silver.co.uk - for silver jewellery and handmade gifts including collectable mohair
animals, personalised pictures & cards, silk handbags & purses and aromatherapy products. You should certainly
take a look at the wide range of beautiful colourful jewellery including murano glass, pearl, beads, and silver. But
for those looking for something personalised, we can create individually hand made to order cards and celebration
pictures for all occasions. Plus mohair animal keepsakes - great stocking fillers! Thanks for looking :) Hayley.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Grab something for Christmas at www.
Indigo-Silver.co.uk !


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View entire thread: Jewellery - working in silver and gold Courses
Posted by Anonymous on Sat Aug 05, 2006 5:07 PM    Post subject: Re: Jewellery - working in silver and gold Courses

While I don't live in Australia, I found that the museum in my town offers classes. Maybe if you have a museum, they
would too. In fact, I am going to take a jewelry/metalsmithing class in September at the Toledo Museum of Art. It's only
$230(US). Milang wrote: [quote:67ca3403b6]Hello, I have been making jewellery for some time using wires and crystals,
beads, etc. But i am looking to branch out into the manufacturing side of jewellery making as well. Does any one know
of a good course I could take - I live in country South Australia Thanks, Eliidan[/quote:67ca3403b6]


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View entire thread: Jewellery - working in silver and gold Courses
Posted by Jan Pompe on Tue Aug 01, 2006 3:33 AM    Post subject: Re: Jewellery - working in silver and gold Courses

Milang wrote: [quote:c4336dc944]Hello, I have been making jewellery for some time using wires and crystals, beads, etc.
But i am looking to branch out into the manufacturing side of jewellery making as well. Does any one know of a good
course I could take - I live in country South Australia Thanks, Eliidan [/quote:c4336dc944] Good luck! Here in
Sydney some lapidary clubs hold classes otherwise have a look what your SA TAFE colleges have to offer. Also some
purveyors of Precious metal clay run courses - if that sort of thing interests you.


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View entire thread: Jewellery - working in silver and gold Courses
Posted by Milang on Mon Jul 31, 2006 3:45 PM    Post subject: Jewellery - working in silver and gold Courses

Hello, I have been making jewellery for some time using wires and crystals, beads, etc. But i am looking to branch out
into the manufacturing side of jewellery making as well. Does any one know of a good course I could take - I live in
country South Australia Thanks, Eliidan


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View entire thread: Pricing advice sought
Posted by Marilee J. Layman on Mon Jul 31, 2006 12:33 AM    Post subject: Re: Pricing advice sought

On Sat, 29 Jul 2006 22:34:52 GMT, Craig Cockburn <craig@siliconglen.com> wrote: [quote:a2601659fb]Hi My wife is
looking to sell some of her handmade jewelry (or jewellery since we're in Scotland) I was wondering if there's anyone
here who can suggest a guide price for the UK/US markets and whether it's more useful to attempt to sell solely via my
own site or whether it's also useful to list on ebay. Is there any suggestions on what resolution of image online is
recommended? Example photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/siliconglen/sets/72157594216461107/ [/quote:a2601659fb]
You'll get more answers in rec.crafts. beads. -- Marilee J. Layman http://mjlayman.livejournal.com/


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View entire thread: Pricing advice sought
Posted by Craig Cockburn on Sat Jul 29, 2006 11:34 PM    Post subject: Pricing advice sought

Hi My wife is looking to sell some of her handmade jewelry (or jewellery since we're in Scotland) I was wondering if
there's anyone here who can suggest a guide price for the UK/US markets and whether it's more useful to attempt to sell
solely via my own site or whether it's also useful to list on ebay. Is there any suggestions on what resolution of
image online is recommended? Example photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/siliconglen/sets/72157594216461107/
thanks -- Craig Cockburn ("coburn"). M.Sc., CITP, CEng Owner, http://www.siliconglen.com/ Home to the first
online guide to Scotland, founded 1994. Scottish blog, FAQ, weddings, website design, stop spam and more!


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View entire thread: KooKoo Sally.com
Posted by Peter W.. Rowe, on Sat Jul 22, 2006 9:10 PM    Post subject: Re: KooKoo Sally.com

On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 13:01:00 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry Sheri <sassie3815@yahoo.com> wrote:
[quote:f9b4e4fcb0]In article <tko4c2ppljgcjabhof0dnbictqrf6np0o1@4ax.com>, breda@kookoosally.com says...
mbstevens wrote: On Fri, 21 Jul 2006 20:30:13 +0000, bredahogan wrote: Hi Guys, Recently set-up my online store
selling my very own hand crafted and designed beaded jewellery. I am just wondering if anyone else has experienced
selling their own jewlery on the Internet? Feel free to check out my site: www.kookoosally.com At last, a fairly clean
jewelry site -- without a time wasting splash page! Might have your son check the spelling on the main page... actually
spelling is fine... it's the incorrect one... you have "one off".. and I'm thinking you meant "one
of" (that was what I thought was one of the most frustrating part of finishing my web site.. finding all those
pesky little spelling errors.. or missing words... or just the wrong word!!! ) You have some very beautiful stuff on
there... I like working with the seed beads also.. and mixing them with crystals.... am now working on using seed
beads.. crystals and magnetic hematite! Sheri http://www.sassiebrat.com Thank you. Even the cart seems to work. 3
minor HTML errors: Line 54 column 10: document type does not allow element "center" here. Line 56 column 7:
end tag for "table" which is not finished. Line 84 column 20: reference to non-existent ID "q".
(Abridged from http://validator.w3.org) As to the actual work, I like that you are trying to create unique pieces with
ready made parts, but have you considered creating some of the larger elements like the pendants yourself? -- mbstevens
http://www.mbstevens.com/ Thank you for your kind comments and advice which I have passed on to my 19 yr son who is my
(very obliging) website man. I have taken on board your comments re: creating all my own pendants ....you may have a
point there!!! . [/quote:f9b4e4fcb0] Sheri, "One Off" is entirely correct for the way it's used on her
site. It's not a misspelling. It indicates a piece made as a single unique design, rather than in multiples. The
usage is a bit more common in the UK, than in the U.S. A "one off" can be thought of as a noun, though it's
two words. It's synonymous with the phrase "one of a kind", which can also be thought of as a multi-word
noun.. Peter


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View entire thread: KooKoo Sally.com
Posted by Sheri on Sat Jul 22, 2006 9:01 PM    Post subject: Re: KooKoo Sally.com

In article <tko4c2ppljgcjabhof0dnbictqrf6np0o1@4ax.com>, breda@kookoosally.com says... [quote:7403c3c704]
mbstevens wrote: On Fri, 21 Jul 2006 20:30:13 +0000, bredahogan wrote: Hi Guys, Recently set-up my online store
selling my very own hand crafted and designed beaded jewellery. I am just wondering if anyone else has experienced
selling their own jewlery on the Internet? Feel free to check out my site: www.kookoosally.com At last, a fairly clean
jewelry site -- without a time wasting splash page! Might have your son check the spelling on the main page...
actually[/quote:7403c3c704] spelling is fine... it's the incorrect one... you have "one off".. and I'm
thinking you meant "one of" (that was what I thought was one of the most frustrating part of finishing my
web site.. finding all those pesky little spelling errors.. or missing words... or just the wrong word!!! ) You have
some very beautiful stuff on there... I like working with the seed beads also.. and mixing them with crystals.... am
now working on using seed beads.. crystals and magnetic hematite! Sheri http://www.sassiebrat.com
[quote:7403c3c704]Thank you. Even the cart seems to work. 3 minor HTML errors: Line 54 column 10: document type does
not allow element "center" here. Line 56 column 7: end tag for "table" which is not finished. Line
84 column 20: reference to non-existent ID "q". (Abridged from http://validator.w3.org) As to the actual
work, I like that you are trying to create unique pieces with ready made parts, but have you considered creating some of
the larger elements like the pendants yourself? -- mbstevens http://www.mbstevens.com/ Thank you for your kind comments
and advice which I have passed on to my 19 yr son who is my (very obliging) website man. I have taken on board your
comments re: creating all my own pendants ....you may have a point there!!! ..[/quote:7403c3c704]


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Posted by Anonymous on Sat Jul 22, 2006 6:38 PM    Post subject: Re: KooKoo Sally.com

HI, I haven't sold online, but I wanted to say that I love your color choices and the bead work. I'm a seed-beader too.
I've made other kinds of jewelry in the past but once I became involved with bead weaving I became obsessed with it..
Love it! Happy beading Jeanie bredahogan@gmail.com wrote: [quote:ef1e86660e]Hi Guys, Recently set-up my online store
selling my very own hand crafted and designed beaded jewellery. I am just wondering if anyone else has experienced
selling their own jewelry on the Internet? Feel free to check out my site: www.kookoosally.com
Thanks[/quote:ef1e86660e]


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View entire thread: KooKoo Sally.com
Posted by Anonymous on Fri Jul 21, 2006 9:30 PM    Post subject: KooKoo Sally.com

Hi Guys, Recently set-up my online store selling my very own hand crafted and designed beaded jewellery. I am just
wondering if anyone else has experienced selling their own jewlery on the Internet? Feel free to check out my site:
www.kookoosally.com Thanks


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View entire thread: KooKoo Sally.com
Posted by mbstevens on Fri Jul 21, 2006 11:01 PM    Post subject: Re: KooKoo Sally.com

On Fri, 21 Jul 2006 20:30:13 +0000, bredahogan wrote: [quote:fa7d45ddc1]Hi Guys, Recently set-up my online store
selling my very own hand crafted and designed beaded jewellery. I am just wondering if anyone else has experienced
selling their own jewlery on the Internet? Feel free to check out my site: www.kookoosally.com [/quote:fa7d45ddc1] At
last, a fairly clean jewelry site -- without a time wasting splash page! Thank you. Even the cart seems to work. 3
minor HTML errors: Line 54 column 10: document type does not allow element "center" here. Line 56 column 7:
end tag for "table" which is not finished. Line 84 column 20: reference to non-existent ID "q".
(Abridged from http://validator.w3.org) As to the actual work, I like that you are trying to create unique pieces with
ready made parts, but have you considered creating some of the larger elements like the pendants yourself? -- mbstevens
http://www.mbstevens.com/


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View entire thread: KooKoo Sally.com
Posted by breda on Sat Jul 22, 2006 6:39 PM    Post subject: Re: KooKoo Sally.com

mbstevens wrote: [quote:361fa3a035]On Fri, 21 Jul 2006 20:30:13 +0000, bredahogan wrote: Hi Guys, Recently set-up my
online store selling my very own hand crafted and designed beaded jewellery. I am just wondering if anyone else has
experienced selling their own jewlery on the Internet? Feel free to check out my site: www.kookoosally.com At last, a
fairly clean jewelry site -- without a time wasting splash page! Thank you. Even the cart seems to work. 3 minor HTML
errors: Line 54 column 10: document type does not allow element "center" here. Line 56 column 7: end tag for
"table" which is not finished. Line 84 column 20: reference to non-existent ID "q". (Abridged from
http://validator.w3.org) As to the actual work, I like that you are trying to create unique pieces with ready made
parts, but have you considered creating some of the larger elements like the pendants yourself? -- mbstevens
http://www.mbstevens.com/ [/quote:361fa3a035] Thank you for your kind comments and advice which I have passed on to my
19 yr son who is my (very obliging) website man. I have taken on board your comments re: creating all my own pendants
....you may have a point there!!!


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View entire thread: KooKoo Sally.com
Posted by minkiemink on Sat Jul 22, 2006 6:40 PM    Post subject: Re: KooKoo Sally.com

mbstevens wrote: [quote:c668f7bbf2]On Fri, 21 Jul 2006 20:30:13 +0000, bredahogan wrote: Hi Guys, Recently set-up my
online store selling my very own hand crafted and designed beaded jewellery. I am just wondering if anyone else has
experienced selling their own jewlery on the Internet? Feel free to check out my site: www.kookoosally.com
[/quote:c668f7bbf2] Yes, it is a clean site, still, I did wish to see the pieces even more in close-up then in the
enlargement that came up when you clicked on the thumbnail. I had trouble telling what the true colors were in most of
the pieces because of that. On the other hand, it could have just been the lighting in the photos. You might also try
looking at and posting your question to: http://groups.google.com/group/rec.crafts.beads Its a great forum for bead
stringers and would be very suited to your work. Minkie


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View entire thread: AD - murano glass, pearl, and beads
Posted by Indigo-Silver on Sat Oct 28, 2006 12:25 AM    Post subject: AD - murano glass, pearl, and beads

Hi and welcome to www.Indigo-Silver.co.uk - for silver jewellery and handmade gifts including collectable mohair
animals, personalised pictures & cards, silk handbags & purses and aromatherapy products. You should certainly
take a look at the wide range of beautiful colourful jewellery including murano glass, pearl, and beads. Thanks for
looking :) Hayley. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Grab something for
Christmas at www.Indigo-Silver.co.uk !


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View entire thread: AD - Chips Ahoy
Posted by Anonymous on Tue Oct 10, 2006 9:32 PM    Post subject: Re: AD - Chips Ahoy

Hey Becki, Was the look too 70s? I seem to be reminded of some jewellery my mom had whenever I see gem chips. I bought
some amethyst chips recently and I love them! I made one necklaec already and have plans for another (of course :-))
Best, Christine Beckibead wrote: [quote:3b978ffe1a]Do you know that at one point I actually gave away all my chips
because I had decided they were inferior beads and would not use them in my jewelry? Even though I like the texture.
Now, they are SMOKIN' HOT again. LOLOLOL. Go figure. Becki[/quote:3b978ffe1a]


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View entire thread: sell zinc alloy alphabet beads and charm pendent
Posted by Allen on Wed Sep 13, 2006 3:04 PM    Post subject: Re: sell zinc alloy alphabet beads and charm pendent

Allen 写�: [quote:d163550081]Good day!!everybody.I am a new comer and I would like to introduce myself and company
to you.We are a manufacture and exporter specialize in produce zinc alloy jewellery and beads which localed in Ningbo of
China.We have a lot of series beads and pendents can coming as
necklace,bracelet,blet,carllor,brooch,keyring,keychain....Anyone if interested in it,please send your inquiry to me.
[/quote:d163550081] To get more beads and information,please kindly visit our website: http://www.willingbest.com


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View entire thread: sell zinc alloy alphabet beads and charm pendent
Posted by Allen on Wed Sep 13, 2006 11:17 AM    Post subject: sell zinc alloy alphabet beads and charm pendent

Good day!!everybody.I am a new comer and I would like to introduce myself and company to you.We are a manufacture and
exporter specialize in produce zinc alloy jewellery and beads which localed in Ningbo of China.We have a lot of series
beads and pendents can coming as necklace,bracelet,blet,carllor,brooch,keyring,keychain....Anyone if interested in
it,please send your inquiry to me.


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View entire thread: Is there any way to....
Posted by Valerie on Tue Aug 22, 2006 2:43 AM    Post subject: Re: Is there any way to....

To clean regular silver I fill a frying pan 3/4 of the way with water, add a tablespoon of baking soda and a tablespoon
of salt and throw in a pan sized piece of tin foil. Bring the water to a boil and then a simmer. Simmer the silver on
top of the foil until it looks like they are coming clean and then drain. I don't know how well it would work for
silverlined beads, but you can try with a small amount. -- Valerie ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
http://www.valeriebeads.com http://valeriebeads.etsy.com Come join OrphanBeads, sales and trading for the financially
challenged beader! http://groups.yahoo.com/group/orphanbeads "mªdcªt" <abuse@127.0.0.1> wrote in
message news:k3lke2t0vu2rie30b4mg9ojs5n5r11urud@4ax.com... [quote:16d772806f]x-no-archive: yes On Mon, 21 Aug 2006
10:03:59 -0500, monique monique@mail.bio.tamu.edu> wrote: ...restore the beauty of silver-lined glass beads when the
lining has tarnished? On the darker colors it doesn't matter so much, and sometimes the tarnish adds just the bit of
antique color a project needs, but otherwise it's so unattractive... I keep asking this question everywhere, but no
one's had an answer yet. Monique in TX owner of a *lot* of old silver lined crystal beads that are just too ugly now
for words. Have you heard of those metal (zinc?) plates that you put in boiling water with washing soda crytals? The
tarnish is removed via a chemical reacion. (I've managed to forget everything I learned in chemistry, but it's
something to do with redistributing electrons.) It's non-abrasive, gets into tight spaces in the jewellery, and makes
CZ come up spectacularly! I'll give no guarantee it won't damage your beads, but it's the gentlest method I can think
of. --------------- Hey spambots! Harvest these: job@swiss-invest-ltd.net admin@vettimaniy.info
postmaster@vettimaniy.info melinda.aubidding@gmail.com postmaster@conunpardewebs.info admin@conunpardewebs.info
postmaster@spurmforyou.com admin@spurmforyou.com[/quote:16d772806f]


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