View entire thread: new to group
Posted by Russ Gordon on Mon Oct 09, 2006 1:13 AM Post subject: Re: new to group
Leah From a Knitting Newbe too, I certainly appreciated your "ultra" assistance with your response to
Pauline. However, I have two questions that I have searched everywhere for. I purchased an "almost new"
machine and am curious regarding needles, about every fifth needle is sorta stiff, or, not as loose as the rest;
although this does not seem to affect movement of the carriage. Nothing in the manual mentions this, which makes me
wonder if it is normal to others. Should all the needles move in the same smoothness? A circle of Wax was included, and
directions show where to apply it. But, I don't know how to get the wax where the needles go into and through the KP.
The hunk of wax is too large to rub it into the small canal. I've sort of shaved it into the particular areas of
concern. Thanks for any assistance. "Leah" <fenton@nowayamigivingitout.com> wrote in message
news:la5ii2hs2kacrvv4bn2dcvpj7dm17nabqo@4ax.com... [quote:2efb3beaca]On Sat, 7 Oct 2006 22:38:28 -0400, judyp2@webtv.net
(Judy P) wrote: Hi Pauline, I have a sweater machine too..Haven't made any thing on it yet.. What I have tried, has
ended up on the floor... I hand knit and crochet.. Judy It sounds to me like you might be in too much of a hurry when
using your machine. I've had an ISM for over 10 years, and the USM carriage for 3-4 years now. New knitters I've
helped with their ISM/USM have dropped work most often because they were in too much of a hurry to get the row done and
end up with dropped stitches because pushing the carriage too fast makes needles jump out of alignment ahead of it, so
they don't knit right, and the work can drop as a result. If your work drops really early after you cast on, it could
be that your hem didn't drop down properly after the first row, causing the knitting to bunch up and then drop. Try
tugging very gently on the hem after you knit the first row to make sure it's hanging freely under the machine,
especially if you did a closed edge cast on, because R1 tends to be quite tight when doing an E wrap. Another problem
Bond newbies have is that they either pull the yarn up too tight at the beginning of the row or not tight enough, so
side edge stitches don't knit right and can drop. You want it snug, but don't yank the yarn too hard. Another issue
that Bond claims with their new higher tech plastic is that the USM no longer needs to be waxed for use. I don't know
if they've even put that into their instructions, but as a seasoned ISM user, I can tell you that when trying out my USM
KP and carriage, I found that it definitely needed to be waxed. Get an unscented 100% paraffin white wax candle. It
should be unscented because essential oils used to scent them can stain your yarn, same with a dyes to make a colored
candle. You can find the little white unscented tea lights in almost any store. Pull it out of the metal tray and wax
the area where the needles go into and through the KP. If your carriage is jamming on the retaining bar rail at the
front, wax those joints before beginning each large project (say after each sweater). I also wax the back of the
machine where the carriage hooks in on the top of the joints and at the backs of the joints to help the carriage slide
more freely. With continued use, your bed and carriage will loosen up a little bit and be overall easier to use, but if
you find it getting stiff to work again (and noisier than you remembered it being), try waxing it again, especially if
you let the machine sit a couple of months between projects. Another issue new Bonders have is they are either holding
the carriage to the bed too tightly or not tightly enough. You want the carriage to glide freely, but not bounce. It's
also very important to make sure there is no tension on the yarn. Pull out enough yarn to complete your carriage pass,
and if you run out, stop the carriage and pull out enough. I usually pull out enough for 2 rows, then repeat. Some
Bonders use a fishing tool called a line stripper to quickly pull lengths of yarn for knitting out and have it shot into
a basket before working, so they don't have to stop and pull out more yarn while knitting. If you try and use it
straight out of a center pull skein, it results in tight rows, which can result in dropped work. If you are dropping
stitches on the same 1-2 needles, then it's quite possible that in man handling your machine, you bent one or more
needles, so it's not knitting properly, and the work will drop in approximately the same place consistently, so check
for bent needles if you're dropping in the same area. Also, check your hem. If you don't have a ravel cord and are
just using the thin elastic that comes with the machine, you might have nicked your hem, which can cause dropped
stitches, as can outright cutting through it. Also check to make sure your weights are distributed evenly in the hem.
If the hem leans down on one side, it can cause stitches to lift on the other side of the bed and eventually fall off.
Also, and I've done this myself, check the instructions to see you are putting the hem on right. Until I got used to
it, I dropped my work, because the hem wasn't hung on the machine right. For more hints and tips using the ISM/USM, you
can visit Steph Thornton's page here: http://www.stephthornton.co.uk/knitting/bond/list/listhint.htm It has a lot of
goofy patterns offered for free (and one quite annoying poster who is obsessed with using multiple dots instead of
proper punctuation), but there is also a ton of helpful hints and tips, like using a crochet hook to "latch
up" the rib instead of that really annoying hooked "latchet" tool. I use a G or H hook to do up worsted
weight rib, I or J for bulky, and E or F for baby/sport/DK. Another terrific site for Bond techniques and tools you can
make yourself is found at Heidi's Knitting Room, just don't let the glaring RED background get to you LOL:
http://www.heidisknittingroom.ourfamily.com/ I hope that helps, because once you get used to your machine, it really
cuts down on the boring stocking stitch sections of knitting. FWIW, I made 3 adult hats very slowly with my USM carriage
before it loosened up, meaning the sharp edges of the plastic started to wear down from use so the carriage moves more
smoothly across the bed, so working the back of an adult sweater should do it, or do several experimental swatches 50
stitches by 50 rows with stripes, lace, fair isle, intarsia, and cables, which can be made into pillows or sewn together
into an afghan, which might be easier for you to handle than the frustration of dropping half of the back of an adult
sweater off the machine. Leah[/quote:2efb3beaca]
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View entire thread: new to group
Posted by Leah on Sun Oct 08, 2006 4:49 PM Post subject: Re: new to group
On Sat, 7 Oct 2006 22:38:28 -0400, judyp2@webtv.net (Judy P) wrote: [quote:a13b0cf615]Hi Pauline, I have a sweater
machine too..Haven't made any thing on it yet.. What I have tried, has ended up on the floor... I hand knit and
crochet.. [/quote:a13b0cf615] Judy It sounds to me like you might be in too much of a hurry when using your machine.
I've had an ISM for over 10 years, and the USM carriage for 3-4 years now. New knitters I've helped with their ISM/USM
have dropped work most often because they were in too much of a hurry to get the row done and end up with dropped
stitches because pushing the carriage too fast makes needles jump out of alignment ahead of it, so they don't knit
right, and the work can drop as a result. If your work drops really early after you cast on, it could be that your hem
didn't drop down properly after the first row, causing the knitting to bunch up and then drop. Try tugging very gently
on the hem after you knit the first row to make sure it's hanging freely under the machine, especially if you did a
closed edge cast on, because R1 tends to be quite tight when doing an E wrap. Another problem Bond newbies have is
that they either pull the yarn up too tight at the beginning of the row or not tight enough, so side edge stitches don't
knit right and can drop. You want it snug, but don't yank the yarn too hard. Another issue that Bond claims with
their new higher tech plastic is that the USM no longer needs to be waxed for use. I don't know if they've even put
that into their instructions, but as a seasoned ISM user, I can tell you that when trying out my USM KP and carriage, I
found that it definitely needed to be waxed. Get an unscented 100% paraffin white wax candle. It should be unscented
because essential oils used to scent them can stain your yarn, same with a dyes to make a colored candle. You can find
the little white unscented tea lights in almost any store. Pull it out of the metal tray and wax the area where the
needles go into and through the KP. If your carriage is jamming on the retaining bar rail at the front, wax those
joints before beginning each large project (say after each sweater). I also wax the back of the machine where the
carriage hooks in on the top of the joints and at the backs of the joints to help the carriage slide more freely. With
continued use, your bed and carriage will loosen up a little bit and be overall easier to use, but if you find it
getting stiff to work again (and noisier than you remembered it being), try waxing it again, especially if you let the
machine sit a couple of months between projects. Another issue new Bonders have is they are either holding the
carriage to the bed too tightly or not tightly enough. You want the carriage to glide freely, but not bounce. It's
also very important to make sure there is no tension on the yarn. Pull out enough yarn to complete your carriage pass,
and if you run out, stop the carriage and pull out enough. I usually pull out enough for 2 rows, then repeat. Some
Bonders use a fishing tool called a line stripper to quickly pull lengths of yarn for knitting out and have it shot into
a basket before working, so they don't have to stop and pull out more yarn while knitting. If you try and use it
straight out of a center pull skein, it results in tight rows, which can result in dropped work. If you are dropping
stitches on the same 1-2 needles, then it's quite possible that in man handling your machine, you bent one or more
needles, so it's not knitting properly, and the work will drop in approximately the same place consistently, so check
for bent needles if you're dropping in the same area. Also, check your hem. If you don't have a ravel cord and are
just using the thin elastic that comes with the machine, you might have nicked your hem, which can cause dropped
stitches, as can outright cutting through it. Also check to make sure your weights are distributed evenly in the hem.
If the hem leans down on one side, it can cause stitches to lift on the other side of the bed and eventually fall off.
Also, and I've done this myself, check the instructions to see you are putting the hem on right. Until I got used to
it, I dropped my work, because the hem wasn't hung on the machine right. For more hints and tips using the ISM/USM,
you can visit Steph Thornton's page here: http://www.stephthornton.co.uk/knitting/bond/list/listhint.htm It has a
lot of goofy patterns offered for free (and one quite annoying poster who is obsessed with using multiple dots instead
of proper punctuation), but there is also a ton of helpful hints and tips, like using a crochet hook to "latch
up" the rib instead of that really annoying hooked "latchet" tool. I use a G or H hook to do up worsted
weight rib, I or J for bulky, and E or F for baby/sport/DK. Another terrific site for Bond techniques and tools you
can make yourself is found at Heidi's Knitting Room, just don't let the glaring RED background get to you LOL:
http://www.heidisknittingroom.ourfamily.com/ I hope that helps, because once you get used to your machine, it really
cuts down on the boring stocking stitch sections of knitting. FWIW, I made 3 adult hats very slowly with my USM carriage
before it loosened up, meaning the sharp edges of the plastic started to wear down from use so the carriage moves more
smoothly across the bed, so working the back of an adult sweater should do it, or do several experimental swatches 50
stitches by 50 rows with stripes, lace, fair isle, intarsia, and cables, which can be made into pillows or sewn together
into an afghan, which might be easier for you to handle than the frustration of dropping half of the back of an adult
sweater off the machine. Leah
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View entire thread: New Ebay Listings
Posted by Anonymous on Tue Jun 13, 2006 4:57 AM Post subject: Re: New Ebay Listings
Hello, Im new to this group and this is the first message I read. I understand how members feel about spamming. It is
really no more than personal advertising and usually this is all they ever contribute to the group. If you look at the
persons profile (view profile, by the persons name) it will show you that this is all they contribute to the group. Oh
well, enough for my first input. I just feel if I want to buy something I go myself to ebay. (But I usually get it
cheaper at Wal Mart or other store and not have to pay any postage) Nannie to be
EAllewell wrote: [quote:4db1d0e647]Hi, I have just posted some knitting kits and latch hook rug kits at Ebay, they are
of Winnie the Pooh, Eeyore, Tigger, Piglet and Gingersnap bear from the Popcorn bear range. As the company that made
these kits has now gone into liquidation, these kits are no longer available in the shop and are very, very rare and
hard to find, but all completely gorgeous and easy to do. To see my listings, please go to http://search.ebay.co.uk/
_W0QQsassZeallewellQQhtZ-1QQfrppZ50QQfsopZ1QQfsooZ1QQrdZ0? If this doesn't work, type in sellers name of EAllewell in
the Advanced Search at http://www.ebay.co.uk I always keep my postage costs to a minimum, and will combine and reduce
postage for multiple wins. Many thanks Erica[/quote:4db1d0e647]
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View entire thread: Stitches East 2006
Posted by Shillelagh on Wed Nov 08, 2006 5:11 PM Post subject: Re: Stitches East 2006
"DA" <noone@nowhere.com> wrote in message news:keCdnQLsrqRiUszYnZ2dnUVZ_ridnZ2d@giganews.com...
[quote:00ee82d40c]Did anyone else attend Stitches this year? Of the 15 that I have attended, this one was the best. So
much great yarn, it was hard to resist temptation. 10 hanks of hand dyed cashmere, two hanks of hand dyed angora, enough
Prism Wild Stuff for two sweaters and a couple of bags of Berroco yarns managed to follow me home, along with a stack of
books and patterns. It is nice to see what fellow knitters are doing. DA [/quote:00ee82d40c] Oh drool........... I'd
really like to go to a Stitches West, just because it's somewhere warm. Your purchases sound wonderful and I wish you
many days of feeling them up, and then knitting them (laugh). As an aside - the weather here today stinks. It's grey,
dreary and rainy, everything is brown and ugly, and it's getting to me. I think I'm going to go back to bed and pull
the covers over my head. But on the bright side - one of my knitting groups is meeting tonight in a book store, so I'm
really looking forward to it pulling me out of my purple funk (smile). Shelagh
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View entire thread: Knitting machine news
Posted by Mirjam Bruck-Cohen on Wed Nov 01, 2006 5:08 AM Post subject: Re: Knitting machine news
Don`t forget to do it by AN OPEN window ,, mirjam ospam@allcrafts.area51.demon.co.uk> wrote: [quote:10ced2b25d]In
message <tsvbk219c9eca0d3tpv6r8l6lp0cmpd1dk@4ax.com>, WoolyGooly boogers@lots.of.snot> writes On 30 Oct 2006
04:43:34 -0800, steelbreeze@iname.com wrote: Good for you! The passap is the one beast I have yet to tame, I'm still
learning about my silver reed Jane I did get a bit of tuition so I know now how to cast on for single-bed knitting.
The main thing I learned is that my trouble getting the thing going stems from it being dirty++. So I am armed with
instructions for taking out the pushers and needles and for cleaning all the moving bits. Today I'll hie me off to the
hardware store for some quality paint brushes and a half gallon of paint thinner. If the thing was all metal I'd take
it to my friend's car shop and have him dip it in the parts cleaning tank - that's what I did with the two Japanese
machines and they came out sparkly clean and ready to knit. I have a Toyota knitting machine and was advised to clean
it with surgical spirit before re-oiling. Surgical spirit evaporates easily. Shirley -- Shirley Shone
shirley@allcrafts.demon.co.uk http://www.allcrafts.demon.co.uk[/quote:10ced2b25d]
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View entire thread: Knitting machine news
Posted by Shirley Shone on Mon Oct 30, 2006 4:49 PM Post subject: Re: Knitting machine news
In message <tsvbk219c9eca0d3tpv6r8l6lp0cmpd1dk@4ax.com>, WoolyGooly <boogers@lots.of.snot> writes
[quote:4afd86a4c1]On 30 Oct 2006 04:43:34 -0800, steelbreeze@iname.com wrote: Good for you! The passap is the one beast
I have yet to tame, I'm still learning about my silver reed Jane I did get a bit of tuition so I know now how to cast
on for single-bed knitting. The main thing I learned is that my trouble getting the thing going stems from it being
dirty++. So I am armed with instructions for taking out the pushers and needles and for cleaning all the moving bits.
Today I'll hie me off to the hardware store for some quality paint brushes and a half gallon of paint thinner. If the
thing was all metal I'd take it to my friend's car shop and have him dip it in the parts cleaning tank - that's what I
did with the two Japanese machines and they came out sparkly clean and ready to knit. I have a Toyota knitting machine
and was advised to clean it with[/quote:4afd86a4c1] surgical spirit before re-oiling. Surgical spirit evaporates easily.
Shirley -- Shirley Shone shirley@allcrafts.demon.co.uk http://www.allcrafts.demon.co.uk
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View entire thread: Teaching Knitting or Crochet to Children
Posted by Leah on Wed Oct 11, 2006 2:18 PM Post subject: Re: Teaching Knitting or Crochet to Children
Hi Padishar, [quote:8f0b7c1dee]I am working in a school for behavior disordered children and I would love to teach
them either knitting or crocheting or ? These children have attention disorders along with some serious psychological
issues. However, they are very interested in watching me crochet/knit and I have been asked many times to teach them.
[/quote:8f0b7c1dee] I learned to crochet first, and I still feel working 1 hook compared to 2 or more needles easier.
But, if you use knitting looms, you can show 1-2 kids how to use them at a time, while the others watch and learn, and
then they can have their turn. I agree with smaller projects to keep their interest and give the satisfaction of
finishing an item in a short amount of time. Scarves may be simple to make, but they can be quite time consuming! I
don't know what advice to give about DVD versus books or diagrams off the net, but if you go with diagrams off the net,
the Craft Yarn Council has a learn how section with diagrams you can print off, which is helpful if you need schematics
to teach left-handed crafters. http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/ The only other thing I can offer is to make sure that
you give them all a light colored yarn to start with. Dark colors are more "hip", but I think all beginners
need light colored yarn so they can see what they're doing, and when people I teach protest the color choice, I explain
it's to make it easier for them to learn, and they can switch to darker yarns once they know where the hooks or needles
go. Also, it would be wise to avoid all fancy yarns, i.e. no eyelash, slubbed, or nubbed yarns. I'd even avoid Lion
Brand Homespun because of its texture, again for the same reason, it's harder to see where a hook or needle will go.
If you were really ambitious about the project, you could teach them how to make their own knitting needles out of
hardwood dowel rods, inexpensive to get from the hardware store. Other items needed are: Hacksaw, sandpaper in varying
grits, say 60, 100, and 150 grits, small bottle of linseed oil, shop towels, and a piece of 100% paraffin wax candle
that is white and unscented, as oils and dyes used to scent and color candles can stain your yarn. Also helpful is a
hand crank pencil sharpener, found in most classrooms. Measure out the length of the needles on the dowel and mark a
pencil line all the way around. Saw with the hacksaw by going partway through on one side, then turning and repeating
for a more even cut. Once the needle blanks are cut, stick them in the pencil sharpener and grind them down to almost
pencil points, but leave them still a little square on the tip. Get the roughest sandpaper and finish shaping the tip
and sand the rest of the needle with rougher to finer sandpaper until it's as smooth as you want it. When both needles
are done this way, blow off any sawdust, then take a SMALL amount of linseed oil on a shop towel and rub the length of
the needle. Let the needles sit overnight, so they absorb the linseed oil. Wipe them again the next day if they are
still a little damp from overuse of oil. The oil polishes them, bringing out the color of the hardwood and also helps
smooth the wood. My red oak hooks and needles took on a much more reddish sheen after applying oil. My last step
before knitting was to take the candle and rub it on the tip of the needle and partly down the shaft so the yarn won't
catch on any leftover rough spots, and I had a pair of knitting needles in about an hour total time, not counting
letting them soak in the oil overnight. It could make learning to knit more fun for them if they made their own
needles, and it won't cost you an arm and a leg to outfit each of them with a set of needles. I used a 1/4 inch dowel
and got about a size 10.5 needle according to my needle sizer. Crochet hooks are much harder to hand carve, so I
wouldn't recommend trying to teach the kids to make their own hooks if you decide to teach them to crochet. Susan Bates
Luxite hooks are really cheap, but catch on the yarn. You'll probably need an emery board (nail file) for them. There
are mold marks near the tips that catch the yarn, so use the orange side of the emery board to smooth those down first,
then the fine white side of the emery to finish smoothing. Leah
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View entire thread: You won't believe this
Posted by Alison on Fri Sep 29, 2006 1:14 PM Post subject: Re: You won't believe this
On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 18:31:57 -0400, spampot <spampot@orph.org> wrote: [quote:56cba57b7b]Anyone here get The
Stitchery catalogue? I haven't embroidered for decades, and I was just about to toss the catalogue in the recycling
when I turned it over and on the back was "Knit Lite." Lighted knitting needles. Yes!! For a mere $15.95,
you can own a pair of plastic needles (sizes 6, 8, 9, 10, 10.5, 11, 13, or 15), 18 inches long, with LED tips that use
G3-A batteries to make them glow! Imagine how annoyed the people sitting next to you in the theater or the cinema will
be as your tips flash back and forth! I HAVE to get a pair for my knitting SIL. www.thestitchery.com, item T66-546.
[/quote:56cba57b7b] I've seen these at the Rag Shop (a local craft store chain) - you could use your 40% coupon for a
more reasonable price. I have only 2 questions - one is - why no size 7? That's right, there are no size 7s! And the
second question, is why are they so long? I would never use 18 inch needles! Alison
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View entire thread: travel time! slightly OT
Posted by Laurie G. on Tue Sep 12, 2006 3:15 PM Post subject: Re: travel time! slightly OT
Thanks for the info, Pauline......it sounds like you had a wonderful trip! Our main destination is actually Altamont,
Ut and we need to be there on Thursday. Winnemucca is about as far as we can travel in one day without being totally
exhausted! We won't spend much time there.....just dinner, sleep and up early the next morning. We like Basque food
though, so will look into that....... I'll look up R.R's Sundance.....I'm not sure we'll have more time than it takes
to shop at Cabela's! From there we head straight to Altamont. From there we head up to Cody, Wy and that's the last
we'll be in Utah this trip. Someday, I 15 will be a trip we take, so I can shop more quilt stores then! But, if you
can easily email the list, I'd be happy to get it! Thanks! Today is packing day so it's a busy one! Laurie G. in
"going to be hot" CA "Pauline" <poconel@nospanpacbell.net> wrote in message
news:xprNg.746$IA.639@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com... [quote:6f29a121f7]Hi Laurie, DH & I travelled to Provo, UT in
2004. He is a woodturner & took classes in Orem. Not to be missed, in our NSHO is Robert Redford's Sundance, which
is just outside of Provo. (Which is very close to Lehi.) It's absolutely beautiful & the food is spectacular.
There are 2 restaurants there - one is more formal, while the other is more casual. You can't go wrong with either one.
Even if you don't eat there, the drive in is so pretty. Are you committed to staying in Winnemucca? We did on the way
up, but on the way back home to California, we stayed in another town, which I don't remember the name of, but if you're
interested, I can check with DH in the morning. There are a lot of Basque restaurants in that part of Nevada. We ate in
one in Winnemucca & in another one in the other town. There are a lot of quilt shops in the area you are going to
be in. If you are interested, I can email you a list I have from a Shop Hop that had just taken place before I got
there. One store I highly recommend is Mormon Handicraft. The day I was in SLC, they were just getting ready to reopen
in their new location, which is in "This is the Place" State Park. I had a chance to look around, but they
weren't ready for customers yet. The park is very interesting as well. I also went to a shop in Sandy, UT called
Quilt, Quilt, Quilt etc. It's on the way to SLC from Provo. It's the biggest quilt shop I've ever been in - they claim
to have over 10,000 bolts of fabric. My feeling is that if they don't have it, it doesn't exist. (It was actually too
big for me to enjoy, but if you're looking for something special, it's probably there.) I also took a class in a shop in
Springville (near Provo) that was just charming. Fairly large & a nice selection of fabrics. I'd go back there.
Overall, we had really good food in Provo in every restaurant that we went to. -- Pauline Northern California
"Laurie G." <lgrnt4ft@pacbell.net> wrote in message news:u_4Ng.96$6S3.29@newssvr25.news.prodigy.net...
My dh and I are leaving the sunny state of California on Wednesday to travel to Altamont, Utah via Winnemucca, NV with a
long stop at the new Cabela's in Lehi, Utah. After Altamont, we will travel up to Cody, Wyoming. The Yellowstone Quilt
Fest will be one of the highlights of the days we are there.......Big Horn Quilt Shop http://www.bighornquilts.com/ will
be one of the vendors. From Cody, we will travel to Jackson, Wy, Idaho Falls, Id to Boise, Id, into Oregon and possibly
back down to Winnemucca before heading home. Big question: what should we NOT miss on our travels? I'm talking fabric
and/or fabulous sights. We have about 10 days. I have done a lot of internet searching and Googling but nothing beats
the "local" aspect. It's going to be a fun road trip! I'll get lots of piecing time on my Quilt Patis quilt
and knitting time on my baby afghan......when it's not my turn to drive! Looking forward to any info you lovely folks
can provide. Laurie G. in CA [/quote:6f29a121f7]
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View entire thread: travel time! slightly OT
Posted by Pauline on Tue Sep 12, 2006 6:17 AM Post subject: Re: travel time! slightly OT
Hi Laurie, DH & I travelled to Provo, UT in 2004. He is a woodturner & took classes in Orem. Not to be
missed, in our NSHO is Robert Redford's Sundance, which is just outside of Provo. (Which is very close to Lehi.) It's
absolutely beautiful & the food is spectacular. There are 2 restaurants there - one is more formal, while the other
is more casual. You can't go wrong with either one. Even if you don't eat there, the drive in is so pretty. Are you
committed to staying in Winnemucca? We did on the way up, but on the way back home to California, we stayed in another
town, which I don't remember the name of, but if you're interested, I can check with DH in the morning. There are a lot
of Basque restaurants in that part of Nevada. We ate in one in Winnemucca & in another one in the other town.
There are a lot of quilt shops in the area you are going to be in. If you are interested, I can email you a list I have
from a Shop Hop that had just taken place before I got there. One store I highly recommend is Mormon Handicraft. The
day I was in SLC, they were just getting ready to reopen in their new location, which is in "This is the
Place" State Park. I had a chance to look around, but they weren't ready for customers yet. The park is very
interesting as well. I also went to a shop in Sandy, UT called Quilt, Quilt, Quilt etc. It's on the way to SLC from
Provo. It's the biggest quilt shop I've ever been in - they claim to have over 10,000 bolts of fabric. My feeling is
that if they don't have it, it doesn't exist. (It was actually too big for me to enjoy, but if you're looking for
something special, it's probably there.) I also took a class in a shop in Springville (near Provo) that was just
charming. Fairly large & a nice selection of fabrics. I'd go back there. Overall, we had really good food in
Provo in every restaurant that we went to. -- Pauline Northern California "Laurie G."
<lgrnt4ft@pacbell.net> wrote in message news:u_4Ng.96$6S3.29@newssvr25.news.prodigy.net... [quote:6eea47b48f]My dh
and I are leaving the sunny state of California on Wednesday to travel to Altamont, Utah via Winnemucca, NV with a long
stop at the new Cabela's in Lehi, Utah. After Altamont, we will travel up to Cody, Wyoming. The Yellowstone Quilt Fest
will be one of the highlights of the days we are there.......Big Horn Quilt Shop http://www.bighornquilts.com/ will be
one of the vendors. From Cody, we will travel to Jackson, Wy, Idaho Falls, Id to Boise, Id, into Oregon and possibly
back down to Winnemucca before heading home. Big question: what should we NOT miss on our travels? I'm talking fabric
and/or fabulous sights. We have about 10 days. I have done a lot of internet searching and Googling but nothing beats
the "local" aspect. It's going to be a fun road trip! I'll get lots of piecing time on my Quilt Patis quilt
and knitting time on my baby afghan......when it's not my turn to drive! Looking forward to any info you lovely folks
can provide. Laurie G. in CA [/quote:6eea47b48f]
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View entire thread: I Voted
Posted by crzy4xst@aol.com on Tue Nov 07, 2006 5:59 PM Post subject: Re: I Voted
ElastiGirl wrote: [quote:b6a1b0bae3]In article <1162911241.207145.55560@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>,
"Donna" <needlearts@gmail.com> wrote: And it's not off-topic 'cause if I go to the Scarlet Thread while
wearing my I Voted sticker I get a discount on stashing. So I'm off for a quick run to my now favorite stitching store.
DH just called and along the way I'm instructed to see if I can find where a new co-worker is moving in today. I will be
offering to cook and deliver dinner. I guess that means my time "playing" on the 'puter is done for the day.
But only if I can find a large moving van... Donna in Virginia I went and voted too, we had stickers also. My treat
wasn't stash, mine was 2 bars of chocolate to share w/ DH -- Lindt extra dark, one plain & the other called
"intense orange". I am however giving in to a stitching/knitting craving -- I've started the DNA scarf for
about the 4th time... hopefully, my knitting skills have improved enough that I can actually make it this time! EG
[/quote:b6a1b0bae3] Got my sticker, which made my boss (political bigwig) happy. No stash for me either. How long did
it take you guys? I had a wait of just over 30 mins, but I had a report from a coworker that it took him over an hour
and a half! Caryn
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View entire thread: I Voted
Posted by ElastiGirl on Tue Nov 07, 2006 5:03 PM Post subject: Re: I Voted
In article <1162911241.207145.55560@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>, "Donna" <needlearts@gmail.com>
wrote: [quote:431ca695b2]And it's not off-topic 'cause if I go to the Scarlet Thread while wearing my I Voted sticker I
get a discount on stashing. So I'm off for a quick run to my now favorite stitching store. DH just called and along the
way I'm instructed to see if I can find where a new co-worker is moving in today. I will be offering to cook and deliver
dinner. I guess that means my time "playing" on the 'puter is done for the day. But only if I can find a large
moving van... Donna in Virginia [/quote:431ca695b2] I went and voted too, we had stickers also. My treat wasn't stash,
mine was 2 bars of chocolate to share w/ DH -- Lindt extra dark, one plain & the other called "intense
orange". I am however giving in to a stitching/knitting craving -- I've started the DNA scarf for about the 4th
time... hopefully, my knitting skills have improved enough that I can actually make it this time! EG
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View entire thread: Some days it just doesn't pay to get out of bed....
Posted by Lucille on Sat Oct 21, 2006 3:54 PM Post subject: Re: Some days it just doesn't pay to get out of bed....
"ellice" <egirl22@verizon.net> wrote in message news:C15FA23F.142E%egirl22@verizon.net...
[quote:05eeac501f]On 10/20/06 7:01 PM, "Lucille" <lzolty@adelphia.net> wrote: I had an interesting
experience with something related to this last week. I was always told RICE, rest, ice, compression, elevation for a
sprain or basically for any kind of bruise. Now I was told something just the opposite. I have very fragile, extremely
thin skin, and a serious bleeding and bruising problem on my arms. It's not something I can do anything about and it's
caused by a combination of meds and my non existent fat layer on my arms. I guess I'll answer the unasked question and
say it's not coumadin. There are other drugs that act as blood thinners - besides coumadin. Aspirin is one of those,
hence the reason that people planning surgery are told to stop taking any prophylactic ASA about 2 weeks in advance.
The RICE formula has been kind of adjusted to depending on the injury. For sprains, or potential hard tissue damage -
the idea is to stabilize, and do the RICE thing. But, many people overdo the Ice part, and the compression part. So,
you're supposed to do the Ice on 10, off 20 minutes thing for the first 24 hours, then switch to heat, or whatever is
indicated. And, now, even with fractures - if it's possible - the theory is to start as much related movement - without
disturbing the knitting of the bones. In your case, with such thin skin - too much ice could easily damage your fragile
skin. [/quote:05eeac501f] Don't I know that !!! [quote:05eeac501f] [/quote:05eeac501f] [quote:05eeac501f]I had an
extra large egg sized hematoma form after an IV was removed last week and the nurses in the radiology department went
berserk when they saw it and insisted that I go to my doctor and ask him to look at it. Just to get out of there and
stop them from fluttering around me, I gave in and went to his office. He glanced at it and remarked, as I already
knew, that's a really big hematoma. His instructions, go home and put warm compresses on and off for the rest of the
day to reduce the swelling and absorption of the blood under my skin. The heat will definitely have the blood flowing,
and is comforting. Ice tends to numb things out. Just be careful with that arm! I feel for you. I'm always afraid to
do that to someone when putting in an IV - especially in a moving ambulance. Usually we have enough time to get it in
before the driver takes off, but... Stuff happens. Personally, I'm a mess also - not because of a missing fat layer
(don't I wish) - but I have very fragile, up at the surface veins & arteries - so - they collapse quickly. I look
like a bruised pincushion after one of my 2 day bloodwork infusions. [/quote:05eeac501f] Generally I don't have this
happen when I do a blood test or an IV. My veins aren't usually too bad. It happened when a student removed the
needle and was a bit of a clutz. This problem is more of fragile capilleries so the problem is more of a peripheral
one. I know exactly what meds are causing it but they can't be changed and they even suggest I stay on the baby
aspirin and just live with the skin problem. It will be better if it ever gets cooler here in Florida and I can wear
long sleeves and protect my arms a little. It's really not much more than a very large PITA. [quote:05eeac501f]
[/quote:05eeac501f] The nurses had immediately put ice on it and I most probably would have done
[quote:05eeac501f]that as well if the doctor hadn't told me different. Heat was a big surprise to me. I thought heat
was only right for muscle aches. Well, I hope it helped. [/quote:05eeac501f] It's allmost gone so something sure
helped. I think it was kind of funny because of the panic by everyone but me. I think they probably were afraid I
would sue them, which is something I wouldn't ever even think of for something like this. [quote:05eeac501f] Also, I
highly recommend "arnica" in gel form - the highest concentration you can get - for the bruises. It's a
homeopathic remedy, you put it on about 3 times a day, doesn't smell bad, and really helps with the healing. Lots of
athletes use it. I know little or nothing about arnica and I'm going to see what I can find out. I wonder if it
would be helpful for my problem. It's really a nuisance because my skin is so bad that they can't even stitch it, so
every little bump is a problem. The Arnica is fantastic for bruises. Don't take it in the sub-lingual form - unless
your doc says it's okay with your meds - or if you send me a list directly - I'll look in my pharm references and see
what I can find out. I use it a lot with the hockey teams. The other thing I use for the back-aches, muscle injuries is
called "Rhus Toxicondron" - which is some derivative from poison ivy. Works amazingly well for more skeletal
type aches. The arnica is great for bruising - speeds up healing quite a lot - usually a bruise I'd expect to last a
few weeks, will be gone in less than half the time. And it's comforting. Generally it can be found at any health food
store, or a Whole Foods, most recently I bought some at Wegmans, or some GNC stores. Just you have to look at the
boxes and find the one with the highest percentage of Arnica, IMO. Hope you're doing well. [/quote:05eeac501f] Thanks
for the good thoughts. I'm fine. Like most older folk I have problems, but so what. The arnica sounds like it might
be interesting, but I doubt I would consider taking it internally. Because of the bleeding I can't even take a multi-
vitamin. All of them have vitamin E and I'm stuck with taking all the vitamins as individual pills. Too many already
and I wouldn't want to add another one. [quote:05eeac501f] Lucille [/quote:05eeac501f]
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View entire thread: Some days it just doesn't pay to get out of bed....
Posted by ellice on Sat Oct 21, 2006 3:09 PM Post subject: Re: Some days it just doesn't pay to get out of bed....
On 10/20/06 7:01 PM, "Lucille" <lzolty@adelphia.net> wrote: [quote:b7b5cd895e] "ellice"
<egirl22@verizon.net> wrote in message news:C15EC4B5.1413%egirl22@verizon.net... On 10/20/06 5:15 PM, "Karen
C - California" <KMC528@aol.com> wrote: Update: After typing a couple short e-mails about the accident, my
right wrist hurts. My consulting nurse says there's no surefire diagnostic for the wrist other than x-rays (i.e., she
couldn't tell me "if you can do this, it's not broken"). Umm - that would be true. Point tenderness is a
distinct indicator, but not necessarily only with a fracture. Of course, if you can obviously see displacement that
would be more than a clue ;^) Did the nurse tell you to do ice not heat - 10 min on, 20 off, and elevate it - as in
rest on a pillow if you can, and take some Ibuprofen if you take that. I had an interesting experience with something
related to this last week. I was always told RICE, rest, ice, compression, elevation for a sprain or basically for any
kind of bruise. Now I was told something just the opposite. I have very fragile, extremely thin skin, and a serious
bleeding and bruising problem on my arms. It's not something I can do anything about and it's caused by a combination
of meds and my non existent fat layer on my arms. I guess I'll answer the unasked question and say it's not coumadin.
[/quote:b7b5cd895e] There are other drugs that act as blood thinners - besides coumadin. Aspirin is one of those, hence
the reason that people planning surgery are told to stop taking any prophylactic ASA about 2 weeks in advance. The RICE
formula has been kind of adjusted to depending on the injury. For sprains, or potential hard tissue damage - the idea
is to stabilize, and do the RICE thing. But, many people overdo the Ice part, and the compression part. So, you're
supposed to do the Ice on 10, off 20 minutes thing for the first 24 hours, then switch to heat, or whatever is
indicated. And, now, even with fractures - if it's possible - the theory is to start as much related movement - without
disturbing the knitting of the bones. In your case, with such thin skin - too much ice could easily damage your fragile
skin. [quote:b7b5cd895e] I had an extra large egg sized hematoma form after an IV was removed last week and the nurses
in the radiology department went berserk when they saw it and insisted that I go to my doctor and ask him to look at it.
Just to get out of there and stop them from fluttering around me, I gave in and went to his office. He glanced at it
and remarked, as I already knew, that's a really big hematoma. His instructions, go home and put warm compresses on and
off for the rest of the day to reduce the swelling and absorption of the blood under my skin. [/quote:b7b5cd895e] The
heat will definitely have the blood flowing, and is comforting. Ice tends to numb things out. Just be careful with
that arm! I feel for you. I'm always afraid to do that to someone when putting in an IV - especially in a moving
ambulance. Usually we have enough time to get it in before the driver takes off, but... Stuff happens. Personally, I'm
a mess also - not because of a missing fat layer (don't I wish) - but I have very fragile, up at the surface veins &
arteries - so - they collapse quickly. I look like a bruised pincushion after one of my 2 day bloodwork infusions.
[quote:b7b5cd895e] The nurses had immediately put ice on it and I most probably would have done that as well if the
doctor hadn't told me different. Heat was a big surprise to me. I thought heat was only right for muscle aches.
[/quote:b7b5cd895e] Well, I hope it helped. [quote:b7b5cd895e] Also, I highly recommend "arnica" in gel form
- the highest concentration you can get - for the bruises. It's a homeopathic remedy, you put it on about 3 times a
day, doesn't smell bad, and really helps with the healing. Lots of athletes use it. I know little or nothing about
arnica and I'm going to see what I can find out. I wonder if it would be helpful for my problem. It's really a
nuisance because my skin is so bad that they can't even stitch it, so every little bump is a problem. The Arnica is
fantastic for bruises. Don't take it in the sub-lingual form[/quote:b7b5cd895e] - unless your doc says it's okay with
your meds - or if you send me a list directly - I'll look in my pharm references and see what I can find out. I use it
a lot with the hockey teams. The other thing I use for the back-aches, muscle injuries is called "Rhus
Toxicondron" - which is some derivative from poison ivy. Works amazingly well for more skeletal type aches. The
arnica is great for bruising - speeds up healing quite a lot - usually a bruise I'd expect to last a few weeks, will be
gone in less than half the time. And it's comforting. Generally it can be found at any health food store, or a Whole
Foods, most recently I bought some at Wegmans, or some GNC stores. Just you have to look at the boxes and find the one
with the highest percentage of Arnica, IMO. Hope you're doing well. ellice [quote:b7b5cd895e]Lucille
[/quote:b7b5cd895e]
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View entire thread: My Third Needlework Class
Posted by Magic Mood Jeep© on Wed Aug 30, 2006 3:00 PM Post subject: Re: My Third Needlework Class
I love the shop. It just a scoonch over 7 miles from the house, but it's nice & quiet, and they already have their
base of clientele, and they just opened in March. But I was talking to one of the owners and the other one (her
sister-in-law) used to have a shop by the same name in downtown Bloomington, but then her life got too busy (kids &
whatnot) and then Michael's moved in, took a chunk of her clientele, and Joann Fabrics expanded..... But now a lot of
needleworkers are not satisfied with Michael's offerings (4 aisle in the whole store dedicated to needlework, and that
includes regular sewing, knitting/crochet, needlepoint, cross stitch, latch-hook rugs, not much there for us types...
the rest of the store is framing, silk flowers, scrapbooking and a bazillion<that word was in my spellchecker!>
other crafts)... And Joanne's doesn't have much either so they decided to open back up. I am so glad they did! I
have 3 more classes, all next month, and one is over two different days. n
news:C11AF59A.5E85F%cherylisaak@adelphia.net, Cheryl Isaak purred: [quote:dab368ecc7]What a great series of classes!
Cheryl On 8/30/06 6:25 AM, in article 4ll7g4F2f086U1@individual.net, "Magic Mood Jeep©"
<nobody@nowhere.net> wrote: Monday morning I dragged myself to (yet another) needlework class, this one an intro
to working with linen. The first hour was spend talking about where linen comes from (the flax plant) and all the
different types, and there were tons of samples of them to pass around. Then we got to work on a small project, on
Zweigart's 28ct cashel, natural in color. Project, for the most part, is worked 2 over 2, but a couple parts are one
over one. I've never worked on linen fabric before (but I did buy some of the DMC linen floss, but I have yet to use
it). I do have a current project that is on 28ct cotton evenweave, but not on linen. It's much stiffer than the
evenweave, and it does look better than aida when the project is completed. Anyway, my current Xstitch project is on
28ct evenweave, 2 over 2, so that's not a problem - I whizzed through that part of the class project fairly quickly.
Then came the one over one. That was the part where I really needed my magnifier. But I did it! Pictures start here:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/2008443990047371020ggraFB --? The ONE and ONLY lefthanded-pathetic-paranoid-
psychotic-sarcastic-wiseass-ditzy former-blonde in Bloomington! (And proud of it, too)© email me at nalee1964 (at)
insightbb (dot) com http://community.webshots.com/user/mgcmdjeep[/quote:dab368ecc7]
back to top
View entire thread: Boo hoo
Posted by Denise in NH on Thu Jun 15, 2006 3:44 PM Post subject: Re: Bargain Fabric was Ironing Re: Boo hoo
[quote:172d271a1a]If you happen to have any State Flowers or State Birds (Virginia, Dogwood and Cardinal) in your haul,
I'd love to buy, swap or steal some!! ;) PAT in VA/USA [/quote:172d271a1a] Sorry Pat, no state birds or state flowers in
this haul. New Hampshire seems to have an awful lot of retiring quilters lately as I've seen so much material at yard
sales this year. First I got about 50 yards of batik from a woman who was bored with quilting and practically giving
away her stash, then I got a couple of dozen yards of asst. and flannels for pennies, then this sale of a woman's mom's
craft items. I don't know if her mom just gave it up or if she had passed on, but her daughter wanted everything to go
to a good home. She had scrapbooking and knitting and small woodwork and paints too, the garage looked like a craft
store. I don't really need more material as I had a rough time finding room for this last haul, but I just can't seem
to pass up these deals. I especially love the latest batch of novelties, fish, parrots, bugs and frogs. Denise
http://community.webtv.net/DeniseJG/ My QI
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View entire thread: OT a thank you to Tricia
Posted by Kathy Applebaum on Fri Sep 01, 2006 11:58 PM Post subject: Knitting stuff for quilters (was Re: LQS interview Re: OT --
"Sandy Ellison" <eltex@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message news:C11E2136.9E21%eltex@sbcglobal.net...
[quote:f93d29524c]Knitting at the quilt shops: no thanks. Be one or the other, please. [/quote:f93d29524c] I'm with you
there! That said, the last time I was in a knitting store, I got SO many wonderful ideas. The yarns they have are
*wonderful* for embellishments, or even just to pet. I'm starting to slobber just thinking about it. (Or maybe I've
just worked too many hours today, and my brain is totally fried! LOL) -- Kathy A. (Woodland, CA) Queen of Fabric
Tramps mailto:KathyA@KayneyNOSPAMQuilting.com http://fabrictramp.typepad.com/fabric_tramping/ remove the obvious to
reply
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View entire thread: OT a thank you to Tricia
Posted by Susan Laity Price on Sat Sep 02, 2006 1:46 PM Post subject: Re: Knitting stuff for quilters (was Re: LQS interview Re: O
As long as they keep the knitting in a corner away from the fabrics it is OK with me to mix the two techniques. Who
knows maybe a knitter will come in and be inspired to start quilting. We can't stop a shop owner from expanding the
customer base. We want them to stay in business. There are many needlework shops who became quilt stores when cross
stitch interest slowed. Now if the quilt shop starts selling something smelly like candles, french fries or beer I might
complain. Chocolate is OK as long as it is not eaten too near the fabric. Susan On Fri, 01 Sep 2006 22:58:04 GMT,
"Kathy Applebaum" <KathyA@KayneyNOSPAMQuilting.com> wrote: [quote:61d14f4fad] "Sandy Ellison"
<eltex@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message news:C11E2136.9E21%eltex@sbcglobal.net... Knitting at the quilt shops: no
thanks. Be one or the other, please. I'm with you there! That said, the last time I was in a knitting store, I got SO
many wonderful ideas. The yarns they have are *wonderful* for embellishments, or even just to pet. I'm starting to
slobber just thinking about it. (Or maybe I've just worked too many hours today, and my brain is totally fried!
LOL)[/quote:61d14f4fad]
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View entire thread: Question about Plymouth Yukon Print Yarn
Posted by DAB on Sat Oct 28, 2006 3:18 PM Post subject: Re: Question about Plymouth Yukon Print Yarn
Leah wrote: [quote:a9b374ec99]Thanks Mary.....I tried 10 1/2 and that didn't work so will try to find 11's I need 12's
is my guess but have never seen that size. Donna You could get a 3/8" hardwood dowel from your hardware store.
It's roughly equal to a size 13 needle. Cut it to the length you want, stick the ends into a pencil sharpener to make
the basic taper (I use our battery operated one at home), then sand it down ALMOST to a size 12 needle on the body with
very rough sandpaper (a wood file takes off too much and creates a flat surface on your dowel faster than you'd think),
and then switching to finer sandpaper BEFORE you've reached the thickness you want (8.5 mm), and get a smoother finished
surface on the body of the needle and tips with finer sandpaper to finish sanding it down to 8.5 mm. Apply a LIGHT
coating of linseed (now only available in the art supply section of Wal-Mart for me) or other wood working oil to a shop
towel or paper towel and rub it lightly over the needles, then let them sit overnight to soak that in. Use a white
unscented candle to wax any rough spots you may find when using the needles. It takes me an hour to make two 12-inch
needles (10 is too short, 14 too long for my liking) or one 6-inch crochet hook using dowels. For the crochet hook, you
also need either a Dremel or equal cutting instrument for faster cutting of the hook head, a wood file to make the flat
hand holds near the head of the hook, or more time and a sharp pocket knife to hand carve the whole thing, then you also
have to sandpaper it smooth, oil it, and let it soak in overnight. If using a pocket knife, always point the blade AWAY
from you and make sure there's no one across from you watching, because if you slip, or catch on a knot in the wood,
accidents can happen. Also, when cutting with the Dremel or sanding, wear safely glasses or goggles. Sounds
complicated, but it's really not rocket science, it's knitting, and you need only an approximate in between size set of
needles to change your gauge, so having a slight variation in the size around, as long as it's not 1/4 mm or larger,
won't matter when making your own. I used a 1/4" dowel and got a 6.0 mm set of needles, which is between size 10
(5.75 mm) and 10.5 (6.5 mm) on my Boye needle gauge, which can make a difference if I just can't get the gauge I need
with 10 or 10.5. If you're really creative, you can add decorative clay knobs or simply glue beads to one end of your
needles if you want single points and are afraid your work will slide off the end. Leah [/quote:a9b374ec99] Thanks for
all that information.....I will save this for later as I would love to make my own needles......the prices for good
ones are high....I prefer the wood ones. Donna
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View entire thread: Question about Plymouth Yukon Print Yarn
Posted by Leah on Sat Oct 28, 2006 2:46 PM Post subject: Re: Question about Plymouth Yukon Print Yarn
[quote:89a76990ea]Thanks Mary.....I tried 10 1/2 and that didn't work so will try to find 11's I need 12's is my guess
but have never seen that size. [/quote:89a76990ea] Donna You could get a 3/8" hardwood dowel from your hardware
store. It's roughly equal to a size 13 needle. Cut it to the length you want, stick the ends into a pencil sharpener
to make the basic taper (I use our battery operated one at home), then sand it down ALMOST to a size 12 needle on the
body with very rough sandpaper (a wood file takes off too much and creates a flat surface on your dowel faster than
you'd think), and then switching to finer sandpaper BEFORE you've reached the thickness you want (8.5 mm), and get a
smoother finished surface on the body of the needle and tips with finer sandpaper to finish sanding it down to 8.5 mm.
Apply a LIGHT coating of linseed (now only available in the art supply section of Wal-Mart for me) or other wood working
oil to a shop towel or paper towel and rub it lightly over the needles, then let them sit overnight to soak that in.
Use a white unscented candle to wax any rough spots you may find when using the needles. It takes me an hour to make
two 12-inch needles (10 is too short, 14 too long for my liking) or one 6-inch crochet hook using dowels. For the
crochet hook, you also need either a Dremel or equal cutting instrument for faster cutting of the hook head, a wood file
to make the flat hand holds near the head of the hook, or more time and a sharp pocket knife to hand carve the whole
thing, then you also have to sandpaper it smooth, oil it, and let it soak in overnight. If using a pocket knife, always
point the blade AWAY from you and make sure there's no one across from you watching, because if you slip, or catch on a
knot in the wood, accidents can happen. Also, when cutting with the Dremel or sanding, wear safely glasses or goggles.
Sounds complicated, but it's really not rocket science, it's knitting, and you need only an approximate in between size
set of needles to change your gauge, so having a slight variation in the size around, as long as it's not 1/4 mm or
larger, won't matter when making your own. I used a 1/4" dowel and got a 6.0 mm set of needles, which is between
size 10 (5.75 mm) and 10.5 (6.5 mm) on my Boye needle gauge, which can make a difference if I just can't get the gauge I
need with 10 or 10.5. If you're really creative, you can add decorative clay knobs or simply glue beads to one end of
your needles if you want single points and are afraid your work will slide off the end. Leah
back to top
View entire thread: OT: Post-op appointment
Posted by Deb in AR on Mon Oct 23, 2006 7:34 PM Post subject: Re: OT: Post-op appointment
A mommy break with you sounds great! Don't know when, but it sounds great. LOL -- Deb in AR - Desert Rat at heart!
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bsrdjr@sbcglobal.net/my_photos Independent Stampin' Up! Demonstrator Pages complete 2006
= 3 Goal for 2006: 1 LO a week "M-C" <mccplg@NOSPAMyahoo.DOTcom> wrote in message
news:4pv6jfFke99pU1@individual.net... [quote:7f5341941f]Same here kiddo and based on Rick's interviews, we won't be
living any closer to each other next year! Guess you need to come down here for a mommy break, LOL! M-C "Deb in
AR" <bsrdjr@NOSPAMsbcglobal.net> wrote in message news:0%r_g.12984$TV3.11457@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com...
Good for you MC! I'm glad you made some MC time for you and went LSS shopping. You got some really cool things! I may
just have to see about the magnetic buckles. They might work for these two sister albums I'm still working on. I miss
scrapping adn shopping with you!!!! -- Deb in AR - Desert Rat at heart!
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bsrdjr@sbcglobal.net/my_photos Independent Stampin' Up! Demonstrator Pages complete 2006
= 3 Goal for 2006: 1 LO a week "M-C" <mccplg@NOSPAMyahoo.DOTcom> wrote in message
news:4ptjrbFkm31eU1@individual.net... I must be fooling the lot of you, cause I sure feel like I'm on slow-mo and not
getting half of what I want to do done! There are so many scrapping and knitting projects I want to get to and never
seem to get to and the snail mail list and website are just itching to get done. I did get help offers but since the
two are intertwined, it was difficult to share the work. Today I dropped Rick at School then went shopping at 2 LSS.
OK.. a little too much shopping... but well you know... I did bring some of my own scrapping stuff and did a little
scrapping at my favorite scrapbook store for about 90 minutes before picking Rick up again. Oh and I went shopping at
Macy's for some tops. Then Rick and I went out for supper and then to a benefit concert given by a French classical
pianist. He was just amazing! Dave would be proud of me I bought quite a bit of paper, mostly the DaisyD Christmas line
that just came out. Of course I had to have the matching big tags and well you know... I also managed to find some of
the Reminisce State tags I was missing, but I'll have to find the ones that I'm still missing on the internet somewhere!
There is a new company... well new to me anyhow called Imaginisce that has these beautiful embellishments called
Aladdin's Charms. I bought the square and circle Antique silver from their Exotic East Collection.Here is square one:
http://www.acherryontop.com/shoppe/company/imaginisce/63714/?l=1&sr=39 Something else new I just had to get: The
new DCWV Chipboard Sticker Stack. I got the Far East collection. It has 5 sheets and they say over 75 pieces. Here is a
link to those: http://www.jordanpaperarts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=118-QS-012-
00012&Category_Code=ECDCWAV I also picked up some of the Basic Gray Magnetic Buckles. They are a great way to close
a hand made album. There is more, but I don't want to bore you guys any more than I already have, LOL! M-C
"Jessica" <Jcicely@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1161386060.405162.190090@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... MC - Wow - you have a lot on your plate! I hope the
mammogram stuff is all fine!!!! I'm amazed at how much you keep going and going ang going...not unlike a particular
pink bunny....:) Good luck wiht everything - good wishes going your way! Jessica M-C wrote: Well I don't have to wear
the brace on my left hand anymore, but I wasn't healed enough to have the stitches taken out. I hope to be back on
track with the website stuff tomorrow. I've got a meetup tomorrow night, so that should be fun! Did I mention that I
got my Cricut deliveries today? I was so surprised, I must have been in a fog lately cause I wasn't even expecting it!
If you're interested in getting one, feel free to email me! -- M-C - - - - - Visit the rec.crafts.scrapbooks website:
www.r-c-s.info Looking to save or make money scrapbooking? Wait till you see what's happening in October!!! Sign up for
my newsletter at the bottom of the page at: www.topline-creations.com/MC My scrapbook and paper art stuff is here:
http://community.webshots.com/user/mccplg [/quote:7f5341941f]
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View entire thread: OT: Post-op appointment
Posted by M-C on Sat Oct 21, 2006 7:16 PM Post subject: Re: OT: Post-op appointment
Same here kiddo and based on Rick's interviews, we won't be living any closer to each other next year! Guess you need
to come down here for a mommy break, LOL! M-C "Deb in AR" <bsrdjr@NOSPAMsbcglobal.net> wrote in
message news:0%r_g.12984$TV3.11457@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com... [quote:78fffc4af9]Good for you MC! I'm glad you made
some MC time for you and went LSS shopping. You got some really cool things! I may just have to see about the magnetic
buckles. They might work for these two sister albums I'm still working on. I miss scrapping adn shopping with you!!!!
-- Deb in AR - Desert Rat at heart! http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bsrdjr@sbcglobal.net/my_photos Independent Stampin'
Up! Demonstrator Pages complete 2006 = 3 Goal for 2006: 1 LO a week "M-C" <mccplg@NOSPAMyahoo.DOTcom>
wrote in message news:4ptjrbFkm31eU1@individual.net... I must be fooling the lot of you, cause I sure feel like I'm on
slow-mo and not getting half of what I want to do done! There are so many scrapping and knitting projects I want to get
to and never seem to get to and the snail mail list and website are just itching to get done. I did get help offers but
since the two are intertwined, it was difficult to share the work. Today I dropped Rick at School then went shopping at
2 LSS. OK.. a little too much shopping... but well you know... I did bring some of my own scrapping stuff and did a
little scrapping at my favorite scrapbook store for about 90 minutes before picking Rick up again. Oh and I went
shopping at Macy's for some tops. Then Rick and I went out for supper and then to a benefit concert given by a French
classical pianist. He was just amazing! Dave would be proud of me I bought quite a bit of paper, mostly the DaisyD
Christmas line that just came out. Of course I had to have the matching big tags and well you know... I also managed
to find some of the Reminisce State tags I was missing, but I'll have to find the ones that I'm still missing on the
internet somewhere! There is a new company... well new to me anyhow called Imaginisce that has these beautiful
embellishments called Aladdin's Charms. I bought the square and circle Antique silver from their Exotic East
Collection.Here is square one: http://www.acherryontop.com/shoppe/company/imaginisce/63714/?l=1&sr=39 Something
else new I just had to get: The new DCWV Chipboard Sticker Stack. I got the Far East collection. It has 5 sheets and
they say over 75 pieces. Here is a link to those:
http://www.jordanpaperarts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=118-QS-012-
00012&Category_Code=ECDCWAV I also picked up some of the Basic Gray Magnetic Buckles. They are a great way to close
a hand made album. There is more, but I don't want to bore you guys any more than I already have, LOL! M-C
"Jessica" <Jcicely@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1161386060.405162.190090@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... MC - Wow - you have a lot on your plate! I hope the
mammogram stuff is all fine!!!! I'm amazed at how much you keep going and going ang going...not unlike a particular
pink bunny....:) Good luck wiht everything - good wishes going your way! Jessica M-C wrote: Well I don't have to wear
the brace on my left hand anymore, but I wasn't healed enough to have the stitches taken out. I hope to be back on
track with the website stuff tomorrow. I've got a meetup tomorrow night, so that should be fun! Did I mention that I
got my Cricut deliveries today? I was so surprised, I must have been in a fog lately cause I wasn't even expecting it!
If you're interested in getting one, feel free to email me! -- M-C - - - - - Visit the rec.crafts.scrapbooks website:
www.r-c-s.info Looking to save or make money scrapbooking? Wait till you see what's happening in October!!! Sign up for
my newsletter at the bottom of the page at: www.topline-creations.com/MC My scrapbook and paper art stuff is here:
http://community.webshots.com/user/mccplg [/quote:78fffc4af9]
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View entire thread: Pricing question and critique needed...
Posted by Vibrant Jewels on Fri Jul 21, 2006 4:36 AM Post subject: Re: Pricing question and critique needed...
Problem is most ppl at craft fairs don't know the difference and would wonder why Sally at the other booth is selling
"pretty necklaces" (that she probably bought wholesale from China) for $7.95, while yours with artisan beads
sell for $150!!! One year we were in a booth beside someone who claimed to be selling sterling silver jewelry with
gemstone cabs and her prices were lower than the glass jewelry we were selling. PPL never stopped to wonder why! I'm
not saying don't use the nicer beads, just don't be surprised if you have a hard time selling that jewelry to the craft
show crowd! Having said that, we decided that the time, effort, and expense of doing craft shows wasn't worth the
minimal profit we received - assuming we did more than break even. Your experience may be better, I hope so! :) --
Karleen Page Member International Jewelry Designers Guild (IJDG) Vibrant Jewels:
http://www.vibrantjewels.com/jewelry/welcome.htm JustBeads: http://www.justbeads.com/search/ql.cfm?s=21770 Join our
Yahoo Group: vibrantjewels-subscribe@yahoogroups.com <calzephyr@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1153234364.351799.301040@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... [quote:a7cafc5e2d]First of all I am happy that you are
using lampwork beads in your creations, but in all honesty I wouldn't buy them at any price because you are using
lampwork made in china which is very probably going to break in the future. They don't anneal their beads and so they
aren't very sturdy at all. I would love to see you using artisan made lampwork, which costs a bit more, but they are
annealed, are not likely to break unless they are handled roughly, dropped on a hard surface etc. You can find some
great deals on artisan lampwork on ebay. Since these are chinese beads though, I think your price is fair. I am not a
jewelry designer so I can't really give you much feedback as far as design or pricing goes. I just wanted to give you my
honest answer regarding the beads you are using. Hi Teresa, Thanks for replying :-) Your input was very helpful. I
didn't know that about beads made in China. I checked the packaging on all my beads and it looks like the most of the
ones I have are Czech glass or Mill Hill seed beads from Japan. The lampwork ones do come from China, and I suspect the
loose ones I bought at the bead store have as well :\ I have passed over a lot of lampwork beads in the store because
they had air bubbles in them, but I didn't know they were more prone to breakage. I think, quite naturally, I will
progress to beads made by artisans. What was on the link I posted is just a fraction of the necklaces I have made :-) I
see a lot that I like on eBay, that's for sure! I am finding that the selection at the local bead shop and Michaels to
be limited and not as unique of course. I would like to learn this technique myself. The local art college has a
lampwork class, but I don't have $400 to plunk down on it ATM (I already plunked down that much for the Art History
course I'm taking :-)) I'm glad you think that the prices are fair :-) Craft sales can be so hit or miss - it's hard to
know what people will like. For instance, my mom does a lot of knitting, and she always tries to pick colours that
people will like, but there's always someone out there who wants brown or orange. I can't wait until November to see how
I do. This is the first year I have included beadwork with my other crafts and photos. Thanks for the luck! Christine
[/quote:a7cafc5e2d]
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View entire thread: Pricing question and critique needed...
Posted by Barbara Forbes-Lyons on Wed Jul 19, 2006 2:31 PM Post subject: Re: Pricing question and critique needed...
There are perfectly wonderful and talented beadmakers in Canada, UK and Europe. Don't spurn them out of fear. You just
need to know what to look for regarding quality and price. Barbara Beader and Polymer Clay Crusader
http://www.penguintrax.com and http://www.backseatgrammarian.com There is a very fine line between a hobby and mental
illness. (Dave Barry) Need quality, inexpensive web hosting with site builder and 50 apps? Check out
http://www.lyonshost.com. mermaidscove_com wrote: [quote:2afc49ce8d]I agree that US made lampwork is better to buy,
because it supports a good way of life, artists being able to do work they enjoy. But that being said- I carry some
lampwork from China and so far have had no breakage at all. I did have some with pressed chevrons I bought, about 1 in
200 but none of the others so far. Maybe I am just lucky but I didn't think it was right to say that they will break for
sure or at even a really high rate. My experaince so far is no worse than venetian glass which is also not annealed.
Ingrid calzephyr@gmail.com wrote: First of all I am happy that you are using lampwork beads in your creations, but in
all honesty I wouldn't buy them at any price because you are using lampwork made in china which is very probably going
to break in the future. They don't anneal their beads and so they aren't very sturdy at all. I would love to see you
using artisan made lampwork, which costs a bit more, but they are annealed, are not likely to break unless they are
handled roughly, dropped on a hard surface etc. You can find some great deals on artisan lampwork on ebay. Since these
are chinese beads though, I think your price is fair. I am not a jewelry designer so I can't really give you much
feedback as far as design or pricing goes. I just wanted to give you my honest answer regarding the beads you are using.
Hi Teresa, Thanks for replying :-) Your input was very helpful. I didn't know that about beads made in China. I checked
the packaging on all my beads and it looks like the most of the ones I have are Czech glass or Mill Hill seed beads from
Japan. The lampwork ones do come from China, and I suspect the loose ones I bought at the bead store have as well :\ I
have passed over a lot of lampwork beads in the store because they had air bubbles in them, but I didn't know they were
more prone to breakage. I think, quite naturally, I will progress to beads made by artisans. What was on the link I
posted is just a fraction of the necklaces I have made :-) I see a lot that I like on eBay, that's for sure! I am
finding that the selection at the local bead shop and Michaels to be limited and not as unique of course. I would like
to learn this technique myself. The local art college has a lampwork class, but I don't have $400 to plunk down on it
ATM (I already plunked down that much for the Art History course I'm taking :-)) I'm glad you think that the prices are
fair :-) Craft sales can be so hit or miss - it's hard to know what people will like. For instance, my mom does a lot of
knitting, and she always tries to pick colours that people will like, but there's always someone out there who wants
brown or orange. I can't wait until November to see how I do. This is the first year I have included beadwork with my
other crafts and photos. Thanks for the luck! Christine [/quote:2afc49ce8d]
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View entire thread: Pricing question and critique needed...
Posted by mermaidscove_com on Wed Jul 19, 2006 9:24 AM Post subject: Re: Pricing question and critique needed...
I agree that US made lampwork is better to buy, because it supports a good way of life, artists being able to do work
they enjoy. But that being said- I carry some lampwork from China and so far have had no breakage at all. I did have
some with pressed chevrons I bought, about 1 in 200 but none of the others so far. Maybe I am just lucky but I didn't
think it was right to say that they will break for sure or at even a really high rate. My experaince so far is no worse
than venetian glass which is also not annealed. Ingrid calzephyr@gmail.com wrote: [quote:b993d32713]First of all I am
happy that you are using lampwork beads in your creations, but in all honesty I wouldn't buy them at any price because
you are using lampwork made in china which is very probably going to break in the future. They don't anneal their beads
and so they aren't very sturdy at all. I would love to see you using artisan made lampwork, which costs a bit more, but
they are annealed, are not likely to break unless they are handled roughly, dropped on a hard surface etc. You can find
some great deals on artisan lampwork on ebay. Since these are chinese beads though, I think your price is fair. I am
not a jewelry designer so I can't really give you much feedback as far as design or pricing goes. I just wanted to give
you my honest answer regarding the beads you are using. Hi Teresa, Thanks for replying :-) Your input was very
helpful. I didn't know that about beads made in China. I checked the packaging on all my beads and it looks like the
most of the ones I have are Czech glass or Mill Hill seed beads from Japan. The lampwork ones do come from China, and I
suspect the loose ones I bought at the bead store have as well :\ I have passed over a lot of lampwork beads in the
store because they had air bubbles in them, but I didn't know they were more prone to breakage. I think, quite
naturally, I will progress to beads made by artisans. What was on the link I posted is just a fraction of the necklaces
I have made :-) I see a lot that I like on eBay, that's for sure! I am finding that the selection at the local bead shop
and Michaels to be limited and not as unique of course. I would like to learn this technique myself. The local art
college has a lampwork class, but I don't have $400 to plunk down on it ATM (I already plunked down that much for the
Art History course I'm taking :-)) I'm glad you think that the prices are fair :-) Craft sales can be so hit or miss -
it's hard to know what people will like. For instance, my mom does a lot of knitting, and she always tries to pick
colours that people will like, but there's always someone out there who wants brown or orange. I can't wait until
November to see how I do. This is the first year I have included beadwork with my other crafts and photos. Thanks for
the luck! Christine[/quote:b993d32713]
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View entire thread: Pricing question and critique needed...
Posted by Anonymous on Tue Jul 18, 2006 3:52 PM Post subject: Re: Pricing question and critique needed...
[quote:3f18745913]First of all I am happy that you are using lampwork beads in your creations, but in all honesty I
wouldn't buy them at any price because you are using lampwork made in china which is very probably going to break in the
future. They don't anneal their beads and so they aren't very sturdy at all. I would love to see you using artisan made
lampwork, which costs a bit more, but they are annealed, are not likely to break unless they are handled roughly,
dropped on a hard surface etc. You can find some great deals on artisan lampwork on ebay. Since these are chinese beads
though, I think your price is fair. I am not a jewelry designer so I can't really give you much feedback as far as
design or pricing goes. I just wanted to give you my honest answer regarding the beads you are using.
[/quote:3f18745913] Hi Teresa, Thanks for replying :-) Your input was very helpful. I didn't know that about beads made
in China. I checked the packaging on all my beads and it looks like the most of the ones I have are Czech glass or Mill
Hill seed beads from Japan. The lampwork ones do come from China, and I suspect the loose ones I bought at the bead
store have as well :\ I have passed over a lot of lampwork beads in the store because they had air bubbles in them, but
I didn't know they were more prone to breakage. I think, quite naturally, I will progress to beads made by artisans.
What was on the link I posted is just a fraction of the necklaces I have made :-) I see a lot that I like on eBay,
that's for sure! I am finding that the selection at the local bead shop and Michaels to be limited and not as unique of
course. I would like to learn this technique myself. The local art college has a lampwork class, but I don't have $400
to plunk down on it ATM (I already plunked down that much for the Art History course I'm taking :-)) I'm glad you think
that the prices are fair :-) Craft sales can be so hit or miss - it's hard to know what people will like. For instance,
my mom does a lot of knitting, and she always tries to pick colours that people will like, but there's always someone
out there who wants brown or orange. I can't wait until November to see how I do. This is the first year I have included
beadwork with my other crafts and photos. Thanks for the luck! Christine
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